Jump to content

Recommended Posts

It's a real problem. Very few watch parts suppliers deal in cases other than for the fairly standard ETA 6497/8 ex-pocket watch movements (Hamilton, Panerai, etc.). I have a lovely Longines 280 movement  for which I've been trawling for a case for a long time - with no luck. I keep checking eBay for watches with duff movements but, in most cases, a duff movement is housed in a duff case!

 

I have one case for which I have no movement. I'd be happy to send it to you to see if it fits one of your movements - with no obligation if it doesn't...

Edited by WillFly
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's a real problem. Very few watch parts suppliers deal in cases other than for the fairly standard ETA 6497/8 ex-pocket watch movements (Hamilton, Panerai, etc.). I have a lovely Longines 280 movement  for which I've been trawling for a case for a long time - with no luck. I keep checking eBay for watches with duff movements but, in most cases, a duff movement is housed in a duff case!

 

I have one case for which I have no movement. I'd be happy to send it to you to see if it fits one of your movements - with no obligation if it doesn't...

 

Thanks Will .... all very true.

 

I would like to take up your kind offer, at least let me pay the postage....... :)

 

I shall PM you my address.......

Keith

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh, I remember that one. All the way from Italy if my memory serves me, nice case though!

Spot on, Geo - as I recall, it was you who drew my attention to it in the first instance. It's a lovely case, just not quite right for the 280 calibre. And I just can't find the calibre that it will fit. Sod's law!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Hi All! 

 

So I have been successful in getting an old Bulova 11AFC back to work. The dial is horrible and hands were very rusty but I cleaned it as well as I could. The movement was very clean and went back together easily. I am going to post photos later. I may have the dial restored and some new hands but not sure it is worth all that.

 

On another note. I purchased the three of the watches listed in the photo. Looking for suggestions on cases and casing alternatives?

 

Any thoughts or suggestions are welcomed.

 

Thanks,

Gary

post-337-0-98864100-1423871296_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Gary, it's a big ask to find the correct cases for these movements, the chances of finding the correct ones is not great. If you are skilled enough and keen enough and have the equipment, you could get something close and machine to fit.

Being realistic, it is probably better just to use them for practicing on, and buy a complete watch that is in need of total refurbishment, that way you will have all the parts at minimum cost. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Geo's absolutely spot on here - the right cases are a bugger to find and, as we all know, most movements for sale are the result of the silver or gold cases being sold for scrap. I've been trying to find a case for my Longines 280 for a long time now - with no luck.

 

I know a watch casemaker who did some work on one of my Elgin railroad watches a couple of years ago. I contacted him to price up making a case for the Longines in stainless steel. £2,500. Mmm...

 

The irony is I have a case for a Longines cal. 30L - and can't find a movement for it! :pulling-hair-out:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are 3 30Ls on the Bay at the moment - but they're either too expensive or not in good condition for the price.

 

My 280 movement is in beautiful condition - and cost me less than £50.

Will, have you already seen this one ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LONGINES-30L-original-mechanic-watch-movement-running-1351-/261711540602?pt=ES_Relojes_de_pulsera&hash=item3cef39317a

Edited by vaguras
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for the thoughts and no loss they were intended to be practice movements. That said, I have mangled heat another mainspring on the one I really liked with the silver dial. Seems my weak areas are mainsprings, hair springs and keyless works.

On a good note the Girrard Perregeaux has been disassembled and oiled lightly and back together. In a 24 hour period though it is running a little fast, about a minute. A.)I'm grateful I put another one back together, yeah! B.) with little experience I'm not sure where to look for this fault. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated?

Gary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

with little experience I'm not sure where to look for this fault. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated?

Gary

Hi Gary, what fault are you referring to? If it's the "minute a day fast", you should be able to correct that by adjusting the regulator.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Geo- I will use the regulator to adjust. Is it normal to have to adjust the regulator? After a correct service should it have to be adjusted? My thought is the middle would be the optimal position? Is that unrealistic of a watch this age?

 

Thanks!

 

Gary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Gary, when you purchase old watches you never know who has been at them. A lot of folk will tamper with the regulator to try and compensate for the watch behaving badly, when it should really get a full service. The bottom line is after a service it policy to check the rate and adjust as required.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could this be something that fits the round movements  ? it's a nice stainless steel case . The diameter of the movement needs to be 26,5 or under . And from the dial to the center of the stem 1,7 mm . Have about 17 mm lugs . The crystal is a little yellow from age but that isn't a big expensive thing to replace . Yours if you want ?  Or someone else ?? 

 

post-644-0-71196200-1424184521_thumb.jpgpost-644-0-98606500-1424184545_thumb.jpg

Edited by rogart63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

May be worth a trip to the watch fairs there are often big boxes full of broken watches and sometimes you get lucky. Another thing is looking at "steampunk" stuff. It is amazing what people are selling just for decoration. The only other place is of course the Bay. There is also a place on this forum to advertise for specific stuff.

Good luck,

Vic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
    • @JohnR725 now that you've mentioned it. This is actually the second aftermarket spring (same place and brand) I ordered as the first one broke. The eye on which the arbor pulls on, broke off on the first spring after the first wind, and also it was a bit to large for the arbor. Looked like on one the second picture in the 2nd group. The second one was exactly the same, I had to bend it a bit, to give it a more prominent curve to the end of the spring so that the arbor catches the eye.  Also I believe both were 5-10mm shorter. Not that I writing that, I feel a bit dumb, as the spring might actually been the problem all along, although its advertised as a substitute to the original...     
    • The CS70 is the only one they show as annealed.  A further search on ebay, I found CS75 and CS100 annealed carbon steel strips  e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314072784422
    • Aloha and thanks for catching all these small but important details, John.  I'm going to give it a shot. The good news is I have a parts movement here with a perfect complete balance.  I will place them side by side for visual reference when doing what you outlined.  It's been a while were I've had a hobby in which I joined a forum.  I forgot just how helpful everyone can be. Mahalo. Frank.
×
×
  • Create New...