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On 4/18/2019 at 1:46 PM, saswatch88 said:

Can you identify the movement in the citizen? Probably a Myiota Iam guessing. Cases are def. available for Myiota but then again it depends on the caliber and also how old the movement is. I would do your search based on the movement because to try to get another case for a different movement to fit even though it may have the same size diameter and even height will still be very difficult. If you manage to get a movement to fit you also have to consider securing the movement with a spacer and fitting a new stem and crown. Not for the faint at heart.

Myiota 8200a it seems recently old not sure of an exact date

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  • 8 months later...

I've been steadily working my way through four Elgin 16s movements cleaning, repairing, oiling and getting each up and running again.

Three of these movements lack cases. Will these older movements (292, 281 and a 312 grade) fit in any of the modern inexpensive cases (Chinese)? I'd like to get the movements cased, but I can't afford to purchase older, original cases which tend to command high prices in good or even bad nick. I've even considered turning up a case on my lathe, but my thread cutting skills are a bit slack.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Buffo

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Clockboy,

I can see that this would be a big problem. Case prices, even on Ebay, tend to be a bit over the top. There have been occasions where I was tempted to bid on a questionable movement for the case alone!

What I'm curious about is whether any of these cheap modern pocket watches that sell for, literally, a few dollars have cases that will take the older, classic movements like an Elgin or Hamilton. Being that most seem to be cheap quartz movements, I doubt that these cases would be deep enough. I don't need coin silver or 14 carat gold. Stainless steel would do the trick and even "white metal" would float my boat.

Buffo

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I have considered trying to cast one out of pewter first (should be good enough) then, after a few tries coin silver but the skill isn't in my wheelhouse "yet".

I have seen what looks to be very passable results from skilled people (not for pocket watches but even if they did I couldn't afford their time).

Shane

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" only one way to find out... look these cheapies over, with your calipers"

That's a bit difficult considering the rural area I live in. Few, if any local shops carry this sort of thing. Ebay has dozens for sale cheap, but case dimensions are not generally listed and I would have to actually purchase one off the cuff to find out.

We possess some excellent hardwoods locally which include several ebonies. I've often thought that turning up a thin timber case might fit the bill. Anybody know of anyone doing this and providing info on the web?

Buffo

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  • 9 months later...

That is very complicated. 

You need dial diameter, stem height and movement diameter. At least. Maybe movement height, particularly if it’s an automatic. 

Then you have to match that up with the complete lack of accurate measurements of orphaned cases on the likes of eBay. 

It is absolutely possible, but difficult in my estimation. Maybe there’s some sort of database of cases and their movements. 

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Original case and dials came in various sizes to house many different complications  based on bfg866, like subsecond, sweep second, date, jump hour,   etc, so it all depends on brand/model and complcations.

I restore patrius calender poiters based on bfg866, you would want the whole package you need to make this to a watch rather cheap, as going for indivdual parts can quickly add up to a hefty bottom line. 

As for making a custome watch, Tudor pretty well covers the points to consider.

Good luck

 

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1 hour ago, gina said:

P.S. I should have mentioned that I already have a dial, but I don't like it and wanted to replace it. (I don't have a case, however.) Does that make a difference if trying to find a replacement?

Sure it does, your dial should get in the case and fit the bezel.

Then you have stem to go through case tube and fit into the movement, you have Dr ranfft that shows stem hights.

The case should accomodate your movement with the back plate not push on the movement.

An original case with matching dial is your best bet.

My late watchmaker's  son lets me in the shop to look for the parts  I need,  I can look for something you can use. 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Evening all,

With my confidence bolstered by my progress so far and looking forward to getting started with the stage 1 course, I have done a little shopping and bought what I thought were two interesting projects to get me going. 

While i’m fairly confident that most parts will be available for each project (should they be required), one is only a dial & movement. Obviously, I will ask around and keep my eyes open on the auction websites for an original case, however, I’m not confident of finding one in the near term. So, my question is, how would I go about sourcing an aftermarket case for a particular movement?

Are there sources for cases & case parts?

Thanks in advance. 

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We need a lot of detail on the movement and dial diameter.

Dials can be reduced slightly, if needed, to fit a case; movement rings can be made to fit smaller movements in larger cases.

The "trick" is to get the stem height correct, so the crown and stem will align.

For this, we can sometimes use a date spacer on a no-date watch to raise the dial (and lower the stem). If it needs to go the other way (closer to the dial) you will have trouble. I have also seen spacer "plates" of thin metal used with date versions, but I don't like the "sunken date" look they produce.

The two most popular wristwatch cases are the Seiko movement version and the ETA 2824 movement version. If you can work around those parameters you will have several case types to choose from. The "sub" case being the most prevalent. 

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32 minutes ago, Tudor said:

We need a lot of detail on the movement and dial diameter.

Dials can be reduced slightly, if needed, to fit a case; movement rings can be made to fit smaller movements in larger cases.

The "trick" is to get the stem height correct, so the crown and stem will align.

For this, we can sometimes use a date spacer on a no-date watch to raise the dial (and lower the stem). If it needs to go the other way (closer to the dial) you will have trouble. I have also seen spacer "plates" of thin metal used with date versions, but I don't like the "sunken date" look they produce.

The two most popular wristwatch cases are the Seiko movement version and the ETA 2824 movement version. If you can work around those parameters you will have several case types to choose from. The "sub" case being the most prevalent. 

I pulled this from the cousins website: 

http://www.moeb.ch/Ingenieur/09e_Chrono.html

The movement is a chronograph with pushers at 2 & 4. The specs state:

Diameter - 23.3mm

Height - 3.8mm

The original case diameter was 30mm, which I assume is without the crown.

 

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Only "easy" case would be an Eta 7750 case. It would need a ring for the movement, and the pusher position may be different. Most of them are around 40mm now as well, so the dial may be a challenge...

Also replica early Daytona cases are easy to get, sized for the Valjoux 72 movement, with the reset pusher set a bit lower than the the start/stop pusher is set above the crown. "asymmetrical" case. I don't think they fit much else, but the ST (something) movement is used in that case a lot even though the ST has symmetrical pushers...

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  • 1 month later...

Cases are hard.... To my knowledge, outside of the Seiko world, there aren't many outfits selling cases. You can track down manufacturers, but they don't want to deal with quantities under 100X. You can try to track down a donor or make it yourself, and that's about the world of options.

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    • in general this shouldn't be any change. but in general questions like this it be nice to know the specifics of the watch in other words how was it performing before it was cased up and what is it doing now.
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