Hi Fellow People,
Im reaching out as I’m currently learning all I can about watchmaking, and am working through the BHI distance learning technicians course, with my exam booked for May.
I will need to service a quartz watch as part of my practical exam, and am learning about watch lubrication.
A few months ago I found a great article that covered the technique for dipping and collecting the right amount of oil on the oiler, such as the speed and angle of the dip, however, I now can’t find it anywhere, no matter how much I search the internet
Does anyone have or can point me in the right direction of instructions specifically on oil collection on the oiler? As you will know there is lots on the actual oiling process but not the oil collection process.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Everybody! Henry Fried has in one of his books a little recipe for making a grease that one can use on the outer wall of the mainspring barrel in an automatic watch. It supposedly provides lubrication for proper slippage of the mainspring tail. Has anyone tried this? What is the proper consistency (Fried is not very specific about this because it was probably so common in his day)? Also how would such a preparation compare to Kluber P-125 which, here in the US is really expensive? I won't leave it here. I"m gonna experiment a bit with this and will let you know what I found. Just want to see what other's have found out. Thanks.
I’m in the process of establishing a reassembly and lubrication plan for of what is basically my first automatic; a Vostok calibre 2416B, and I’ve come to the reversing wheels.
As can be seen in the above pictures from the strip down, the teeth of the reversing wheels have blackened. It looks to me like they have must have been lubricated, or could it be that the oil that was once applied to the jewels has spread out over the teeth?
So what do you think; should I lubricate the teeth, and if so what kind of lubrication do you think could be suitable?
This movement is about 25 years old and has never been serviced. I know this for a fact as I know the original owner who bought it new. The watch is in great condition and was only worn for about three years when the strap broke and was then placed in a drawer. There it had been sitting until I got in my hands. It’s a somewhat rare Komandirskie, and for anyone interested here are some pictures of it and how it got into my hands.
I recently serviced a PUW 1561 automatic movement.
This was my first time servicing automatic movement and I am not confident on lubricating barrel wall.
I purchased Moebius 8217, breaking grease for the barrel wall.
The whole service was a quite long process for me so I will just get to my point.
On the cleaned barrel wall, I applied thin layer of 8217 thinking that too much would not do any good.
Then I placed the mainspring and applied 3 drops of Moebius 8200 before closed the barrel cap.
After I had assembled the watch, I tried winding it. It wound well but I could hear the mainspring slip in side the barrel when I felt some tension on the crown as I was winding.
I know that automatic mainspring slips along the barrel wheel but never experienced such 'obvious' slipping sound.
I guess the timegrapher tells that service was not that bad but I just don't feel right when hand winding the watch.
Is it something wrong in the barrel? May be I should have applied the 8217 more thicker?
Thanks for always helping me out.
I'm about to service a Timex 260 electric movement. It's running strong as-is, but I doubt that it has been cleaned or lubricated in its lifetime. I do have the service manual for the movement and for most of the oil points, the SM calls for Moebius Synt-A-Lube, without specifying a product number (I intend to use Moebius 9010), but for the friction pinion the manual calls for "spreading type oil" (Woods AAAA oil). I cannot find a cross-reference for this old Woods oil and most watch oils are, of course, specifically formulated to NOT spread... so, I'm seeking advice and suggestions for a suitable oil to use on the friction pinion. Also, if anyone thinks that 9010 is NOT appropriate to use for the various other points, please let me know.
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You can't, the time is fixed because the indexing motor runs a certain speed and it runs constantly until the basket drops into the next jar. You should concentrate instead on making sure the spin-off speed is as high as possible without causing the fluid in the jar to swirl around and splash up and out. All the speeds are controlled together with the rheostat you can set with a screwdriver. But the proportions of the speeds to one another are controlled by the taps on the wirewound resistor that you can move. I forget the exact details ... do you have the manual? It's all spelled out. My machine was wired wrong when I got it, giving a spinoff speed that was slower than the drying speed. The spinoff was useless and the drying would wake the dead. The spinoff is supposed to be faster than the dry, and it works great with that fixed. I have been using it for 15 years now...? Probably ran it six times today.
This forum is like "google" for watchmakers
When used in relation to lathes it means Webster Whitcomb, who were the guys responsible for creating the "WW" lathe at the American Watch Tool Company.