Jump to content

Dial (face) cleaning?


Recommended Posts

I use a combination of rodico, soft-bristle toothbrush, and a rubber pencil eraser. With especially dirty dials I've found that an ammonia-based cleaner (windex) with q-tips and air works wonders. Either way, as it was mentioned, be very careful with transfers and delicate enamel - I've already ruined many dials in my short time. I make sure every action on the dial is deliberate and I study the surface after every stroke to check for any signs of lifting or chipping.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Holy zombie thread, Batman!

The silver plating solution stuff referenced above is something I'm entertaining using in an attempt to bring some plated silver cases back from decades of corrosion and brassing. I looked into the stuff, at it seems that it works on a chemical basis relying on dissimilar metals and swapping ionic charges (a battery was used as an analogy in the article). The result is SUPER thin, like atomic thin in that the silver atoms bond to any exposed dissimilar metals, but once there is no exposed dissimilar metal available to bond to, the reaction stops. This is fine for a dial that is never touched, but maybe less fine for a case or even a crown. Would it be suggested to add some sort of finish or lacquer? What would that be?

@Blacklab, what are your thoughts on this? Also, badass on the dials! I have a few ugly silvered dials in my 404 stash that will undoubtedly get this treatment if I end up going this route and have any leftover solution. Can you give a bit more detail on your process? Is there any special consideration given to any applied details? Given the way it works, it seems like it would be very effective via immersion rather than brushing (which is how it seems to be suggested in the instructions on the various products I've seen). Clean really well first, then dunk and occasionally lightly shake until the silver is all deposited/exhausted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone have any experience cleaning up tarnished numbers? I have a 1962 Timex Marlin that needs a little bit of work to really show it's potential. 

The dial is in nice shape for the most part other than the numbers....I would be open to any suggestions??

Thanks in advance! 

Jamie

edit: I suspect the tarnish was caused by deterioration of the lume dots that have NOT aged well...

PXL_20210213_234110764.jpg

PXL_20210213_234208349.jpg

PXL_20210213_234128113.jpg

Edited by terrapinrecs
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yikes, those look like the plating has lifted up off the numerals in some areas.

I think one technique is to "charge" up the tip of some pegwood with a polishing compound like cerium oxide or jeweler's rouge, and use that to polish the numerals. You can shape the tip of the pegwood as needed, and just rub it in the powder with a little water before you use it on the numbered area.  Haven't actually tried it myself though ?

If you can clean up the numerals and relume the dial and hands, I think it will look quite nice.

 

Edited by KOwatch
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, KOwatch said:

I think one technique is to "charge" up the tip of some pegwood with a polishing compound like cerium oxide or jeweler's rouge, and use that to polish the numerals. You can shape the tip of the pegwood as needed, and just rub it in the powder with a little water before you use it on the numbered area.  Haven't actually tried it myself though ?

If you can clean up the numerals and relume the dial and hands, I think it will look quite nice.

 

Thanks for the recommendation! I will give this a shot if I fail to find an easier solution (I don't expect an easier one haha, just still fishing). Unfortunately I do not have another dial with similar corrosion to experiment on so I will be going in raw on this one when I do attempt a fix. 

Jamie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just sold a Vostok project that required work on numerals. I taped a little piece of sandpaper to the end of my pegwood with double-sided tape and very carefully removed tarnishing. Then I used a combination of rodico, precision qtips, and automotive buffing compound to polish. Finished with a few coats of pen electroplating silver.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey all,

So as the title suggest. Acquired a Tiffany CT60 42mm Chronograph 34677271 in private sell from the original buyer. Noticed that the dial has some contaminants on it, dust specs, a smudge? and a tiny linen or fabric thread of some kind on the small dial seconds. The watch itself has never been opened from what I can tell, it's just 4 months old from Tiffany. Runs great, no issues mechanically. Light everyday micro scratches from being a desk pirate. The local watch repair places nearby looked at the watch and concluded the movement must come out the top of the case. So to gain access the bezel fit crystal and metal ring seating the crystal must be removed to gain access. Obviously this is a lot easier said then done and both locations have turned down doing the job out of fear hurting the case, glass or bezel (my fear too). Tiffany didn't include a notch to help guide a bench knife too pop the bezel off from the case. Anyone have any ideas? Maybe you live in the Sacramento area and know a a jeweler with the skill / patience to do a good job at popping the top off for a cleaning?  

Screen Shot 2021-03-03 at 12.13.55 AM.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any possibility of calling them yourself? I know what it is like not having a service centre nearby for something that you own.

I have seen quite a few guys on here mention front loading watches so I would say someone knows what to do.

Edited by Michael1962
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  first thing to do is a close inspection around the bezel area looking for the seam, also same at the back (can you post a picture of the back as well please) and if it is a case of being a front loader, to remove the bezel there is a special tool for the job, see attached, but failing that use a sharp edge(safety razor or stanley blade) wearing a glove, and try to gain access by lifting the bezel so as to introduce a case knife, now this may only remove the bezel or both glass and bezel.  f only the bezel then you will have to remove the glass, again it needs a tool so you will now have some idea of the complication of what looks like a simple job. Unless you are thinking of taking up horology as a hobby the cost of tools etc adds up.  Have a Look at the AWCI website for watch repairers in your area there are some who accept postal repairs and contacts are via online/email.

 

crystal lift.jpg

watch bezel remover.webp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Michael1962 said:

Any possibility of calling them yourself? I know what it is like not having a service centre nearby for something that you own.

I have seen quite a few guys on here mention front loading watches so I would say someone knows what to do.

No definitely. I did contact T&Co, they only allow mail in repairs and the wait time is expected 1-2 months. I picked my watch back up from the local watch repair place today. ODDLY, the debris is gone... they said they didn't open it out of fear of hurting the glass/bezel. So it's anyones guess how the debris randomly and suddenly disappeared.? I think there was a miscommunication with the watch repair gent and the owner. The watch repair guy himself might have done something to clear it in someway, maybe air, who knows.

Edited by burkettacb
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Could you post a picture with the crystal off perhaps?

Your dial is metal that is textured and then coated with paint and varnish. The paint is usually on the metal and below the varnish, but not always. The risk with cleaning comes from removing the top-most coating. In some old watches, the varnish gets gummy with age and particles of dust and lint get stuck in it, like dinosaurs in a tar pit.

It is hard to remove specs and stains. A common problem people don't anticipate is changes in glossiness and texture. Cleaning one spot (with Rodico, erasers, etc) might give it a flat, matte finish that really stands out much worse than the specks did.

Cleaning metal dials is one of those "know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em" sort of things. I tend to avoid it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Dwight said:

I am new to the group. I posted a question to the wrong section so I'll repost it here. I hope someone can let me know if this Tiffany watch face will clean up nicely and if I can do it myself. I was my father's so I don't want to ruin it. Thanks

20210322_143423.jpg

Welcome to the forum. Focus on  getting the mechanical working optimally, but please leave that watch face alone. Don't be tempted to make it look new, you WILL regret it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Great diagram with the teeth and pinion count. Simple way to reduce the speed of the hour wheel by the 12:1 minute wheel. Genius and yet so simple. Always good to reinforce the principal by what you have done in your drawing. Keep doing that. I had a drawing on my wall for years showing me this which is very similar to the drawing you have done. Here's a formula to work out the beats per hour of a watch movement. The movement's BPH is dictated by the wheel teeth and pinion count and the hairspring being vibrated to the correct BPH by finding the pinning up point on the hairspring using a vibrating tool.  The reason in the formula there is X2 on the top line is because there are two pallet stones.
    • So I just wanted to say "thank you" again.  The angle is the key bit it seems and yes, it did basically just fall, or float, back into position when I got it lined up just right.
    • Well I’ve never seen the make before and cannot find any info, I haven’t got it just yet it’s been left to me among a 1970’s sea master and a mid size yeoman. But if anyone has any information on this one please feel free to enlighten me, many thanks 
    • Hello Horologists, thought I'd introduce myself. I'm a 50ish year old who has been dabbling in watches for a while, did a couple of BHI course here in the UK and have started to dabble at bit more. I also took the level 1 course, which was a good refresher. Now off to look at some Bergeon tools and then buy (and regret buying) the cheaper ones...    Stirky.
    • Hi All, I thought I'd draw a diagram to help me understand the motion works for an eta 6497 so I thought I'd share it here in case anyone else finds it helpful. Any corrections, please let me know! Hope it helps. Stirky.  
×
×
  • Create New...