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A mixture of success and failure...


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I bought this watch on Ebay.  It looked interesting and was not a lot of money, so hey...a little project to hone my skills.

When it arrived, I wound it up and did some 'tic'ing and off and on some 'toc'ing.  But the balance was clearly sluggish...struggling for the next tic or toc.

So today, in a fit of boredom, I decided to clean it.

My first image is the watch as I saw it on Ebay.

2021-02-11 20_09_04-Window.png

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I do not have the "proper" cleaning gear but I worked with what I had.  I took the watch down, put the components in lighter fluid followed by IPA for drying.  Interesting design.  The top plate has a pivot hole for a gear that does not exist.  A little confusing.  But...don't sweat the unknowns.

I did not have to (and wish I had not), but I removed the click spring.  This was really for fear that it would take flight during the cleaning process.  Well...lol...it did take flight...more on that later.

Here is an image of the the train wheels with the main plate removed.  The balance and pallet fork are already removed here.

Forgive the 60Hz in these photos...the lamp is florescent.

I also show the dial side with and without the date ring.  These pictures were primarily for helping me reassemble

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Edited by LittleWatchShop
grammar fix
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I removed the mainspring from the barrel.  Inspected and put it back in.  Gave a little thanks to my Dad who assembled this watch bench and tools...the mainspring winder is cool!  Fun stuff.  Anyway, wound it and put it back in the barrel...no problem.  Oh wait!!! Ieeeeee!!!  I put it in backwards.  Oh well...more practice with the winder.

During the reassembly process--remember that click spring--I managed to send the click spring flying aaaawwwaaaayyyyy!

I have a sweeper magnet leaning against the wall next to the bench.  I took several sweeps and no spring.  Lots of other things (another story).

What to do?

Well, a month ago, I saw a bag-o=springs on Ebay...one gram worth.  I bought them.  Moreover, I had a small collection of springs that my Dad kept for such emergencies.

I found a spring that was really close, did some bending and cutting and voila!

 

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I assembled the train wheels, oiled them, and applied power and they spun away.  Yay!

Assembled the mainspring, ratchet wheel and click (with my handcrafted click spring).

Then the pallet fork and balance wheel.

OK, I confess, I could not figure out what was going on with the balance pivot holes.  Some kind of metal on one side and jewel on the other...not like anything I have seen, so I did not try to break it down to clean and oil. 

After the movement was assembled, I took another sweep with the magnet and found the original click spring!!

Here is the movement after assembly. 

 

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Edited by LittleWatchShop
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I tell you, I felt like I was fluent in Swiss...or German with a Swiss accent!!

Then...all of a sudden...shite hits the fan.

While putting the hands on and adjusting them to get a perfect calendar roll over, something hit the one o'clock lume and it popped off.

No biggie...I will glue it on.  I did this once before on another watch.  Well, no bueno.  The glue caused the lume to fracture and it was a mess.

Who needs one o'clock anyways!  Nothing happens then.  It is not a happy hour.

Here is the final result (sans case).

That's my story!

2021-02-11 20_39_58-Window.png

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  • 2 months later...

Nice one! I agree with Klassiker, it’s great to hear a full story, especially one with some ups and downs. That looks like an interesting movement. Isn’t it the best feeling when you drop that balance in and...it works? ?

Did you ever figure out the balance jewels?

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    • Hello everybody, sorry for the late reply. Thank you all so much for your help and your tips. I got lucky and found a replacement wheel bridge for cheap which actually ended up being in decent condition. I decided not to do anything about the mainspring barrel pivot since I didn't have the right tools and the barrel didn't have much endshake anyhow. I am happy to report that the watch now runs great, I have regulated it to about +-10/s day which is fine by my standards. The timegrapher result looks decent as well, although beat error is around 0.6ms which could be better I suppose. Amplitude reaches over 230 quite consistently which I'm happy with also. My lighter fluid has also been replaced by balance spring cleaning solution and now the springs don't stick to themselves anymore - who would have thought. I'm super happy with this watch, it might not be worth a whole lot but it's awesome that I could restore it and it makes me wear it with pride. To me it's a genuinely good lucking watch, it'll be my daily driver for a while. Thanks again to everybody for their input! I couldn't have done the repair without your help.   Here are some images for those interested, the bracelet isn't original but I don't really mind:    
    • Balance-hairspring system is oscillator with big Q-factor. When all in the movement is OK, the rate (frequency) is verry close to the own resonant frequency of the balance-hairspring. But in some cases, the movement (with foult) will force the resonator to work on pritty different frequency, sometimes faster, and sometimes slower. When this happens, the amplitude is always weak. So, the first thing to ask is what is the amplitude. If it is more than 180 and the hairspring doesn't touch itself and anything else, then for sure it is 'short'. If the amplitude is weak, then the first thing to do is to understand why and rectify the problem. At this time no point to check timekeeping. But, if one doubts that the hairspring is not correct, then He needs to calcullate the rate of the movement, then to 'vibrate' the balance-hairspring out of the movement and to measure the free oscillations frequency (period) with timer in order to ensure that they comply with the rate. If we have pictures, then it will be easier to tell something about that wheel.
    • So much work has gone into this! Thanks again @Jon. I will go back and check my adjustments from last weekend. A few questions for you, if you don't mind. In the reset position, I can understand the problem if the gap between the hammer and the minute counter heart is too big (slide 77) but what is bad about both hammers being in contact with the cams (slide 76)? I read somewhere that Landeron recommended grease on the runner cam, but the minute counter heart should be dry. Is that so, and why? How many tads in a ligne?
    • Could you glue two pieces together for rigidity and separate after forming? 
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