Jump to content

What Is The Best Way To Attach The Balance Spring


Recommended Posts

I received a new complete spring assembly. It has a metal piece on the end that pressure fits between a two-pronged fork.

What's the best way to attach it?

I tried holding the balance bridge with a pair of tweezers while holding the end of the spring with another pair and I can't make any headway.

It's a 2836-2 movement.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I received a new complete spring assembly. It has a metal piece on the end that pressure fits between a two-pronged fork.

What's the best way to attach it?

I tried holding the balance bridge with a pair of tweezers while holding the end of the spring with another pair and I can't make any headway.

It's a 2836-2 movement.

Thanks.

You dissasemble the whole movement,put the balance complete in its place,set the bridge above it and screw it in on the mainplate.move the regulating pins and fork which holds the stud as far as posible.

using fine tweezers put the hairspring between regulating pins, put the stud in place "between the fork" as you say press it towards the jewel center using brass tweezers

Voala!

br

emso

p.s: sent from my s****y phone so sorry for typing mistakes

Edited by emso
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You dissasemble the whole movement,put the balance complete in its place,set the bridge above it and screw it in on the mainplate.move the regulating pins and fork which holds the stud as far as posible.

using fine tweezers put the hairspring between regulating pins, put the stud in place "between the fork" as you say press it towards the jewel center using brass tweezers

Voala!

br

emso

p.s: sent from my s****y phone so sorry for typing mistakes

Thanks. I got the stud in. Now about the other regulating pin; I see that it's slotted.

Do place the spring in the slot and pinch it close or let sit in the open slot?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sits in the slot.

 

1.Get the watch in beat first.. tick equals the tock.. Not easy without a timing machine.

 

2.Once in beat twist the stud carrier (end of the hairspring) around in its slot to get the best  possible 'shape' for the hairspring coils.

 

3.Check if hairspring is touching the sides of the regulating pins..adjust the regulating pins by rotating the carrier in its slot.

 

4.You  may find that the 'shape' of the coils has changed so you may need to repeat steps 2-3 a few times.

 

Sounds tedious but believe me, this is a step in the right direction compared to the old way... especially with hairsprings pinned to the stud!

 

Anil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@anilv

At what point do we have to bend the hairspring (for it to be perfectly centered and also to pass in the midle between the regulator pins), and, more importantly, where do we do that bend? At the beginning of the 'dog-leg'?

Edited by matabog
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The dogleg's purpose in life is to bring the end of the hairspring to the level where it meets the stud 'square'.

Another way to put it would all the coils need to be concentric, it is only at the end of the hairspring that it needs to be brought in one with the stud via the dogleg.

Basically it only needs to be as long as it needs to pass thru the reg pins..

Hth

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks. I got the stud in. Now about the other regulating pin; I see that it's slotted.

Do place the spring in the slot and pinch it close or let sit in the open slot?

Yes you put it between pins and close the regulating pins. Just to stop the hairspring faling out of them

The regulating pins from the etachron system shoald not be removed as it is not needed in any case if not damaged

br

emso

p.s: sent from my s****y phone so sorry for typing mistakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Two pins or screwdrivers angled out slightly, pressing through from the barrel centre from the opposite side so they contact just clear of the hole in the lid? eg. Strap pin driver needles or similar.
    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
×
×
  • Create New...