Jump to content

Does this Movado Auto Chrono Have a Snap-Back?


bangy55

Recommended Posts

Is anyone familiar with this Movado 88-93-890 v91 case? I rarely work on snap-back cased watches and I was to be sure it isn't removed through the crystal side before I attempt to remove the movement. If it is a snap-back, it's really on there. If it comes out the dial side, anyone have any tips? Thanks in advance.

movado caseback reduced.jpg

movado face side reduced.jpg

movado side reduced.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/7/2021 at 3:29 AM, jdm said:

Seems to me that is a reguar snap back case, no front loader.

Thanks, jdm, I feel a bit better about it now. I've just never seen a caseback jammed on so tight. Under the microscope, I can see rust where the caseback and the case must come together so I'm soaking it in penetrating oil just deep enough to cover the joint while I wait for a new shock tool from Cousins. Hope it has the guts to get the job done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, bangy55 said:

 I can see rust where the caseback and the case must come together so I'm soaking it in penetrating oil just deep enough to cover the joint while I wait for a new shock tool from Cousins. Hope it has the guts to get the job done.

I've never tried a shock tool, I'm not even convinced that's the best approach. For sturdy cases I use a lever type covered below, but if not careful may lease some markings, so it's always good to coat in plastic.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Update...

What a marvelous little tool. I was shocked by the "Shock Tool." The very first attempt literally blasted the caseback off and across my bench. I had been soaking the watch in an 1/8" pool of CLP while waiting for the arrival of the $120 or so tool from Cousins. As you can see, there is a layer of it on everything in the case. Sucker was rusted tight. It'll never be a waterproof watch again, but there is no damage beyond where the case and its back met. Happy camper. I can certainly recommend it to you, jdm. Cheers.

rusted shut.JPG

shock tool.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, bangy55 said:

What a marvelous little tool. I was shocked by the "Shock Tool."

Interesting! This is the first time I've heard about this tool. I assume it must be this this tool? How is it used? Do you simply place the blade between the case and the case back and then press the top part (button) to activate the internal hammer? Is the flat side of the bade held against the case (I would assume so) or the case back?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, VWatchie said:

Interesting! This is the first time I've heard about this tool. I assume it must be this this tool? How is it used? Do you simply place the blade between the case and the case back and then press the top part (button) to activate the internal hammer? Is the flat side of the bade held against the case (I would assume so) or the case back?

Hi VWatchie you have 3 blades to chose from, you place the blade into the snap back slot provided and push the main body into the Watch and pop goes the weasel, I mean caseback. You can also adjust the strength of the pressure applied by turning the top of body clockwise or anti clockwise. I have mine on the weakest setting as they have a lot of power on the strongest setting and I have damaged a case. But they are very good at what they are deigned for. They have a strong spring inside the main body and when pressed against the surface it goes to a certain point then bingo. 

Hope this helps https://youtu.be/viVpyuEo0dM

Graziano 

Edited by Graziano
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, dadistic said:

Nice.

I've used center punches that have a similar mechanism, just push instead of banging a hammer. I've been looking for a better opener, I think I'll try this one.

Thanks!

That's exactly what it's like, only on steroids!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, VWatchie said:

Interesting! This is the first time I've heard about this tool. I assume it must be this this tool? How is it used? Do you simply place the blade between the case and the case back and then press the top part (button) to activate the internal hammer? Is the flat side of the bade held against the case (I would assume so) or the case back?

Graziano explained it perfectly. It reminds me of the old impact wrench you'd hit with a hammer and it would turn the screw driver blade while forcing it into the screw slot. Only with the hammer built in. Very powerful.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks, This watch was in a box of old scrape units that a friend gave me. They used to be his late father's who was a watchmaker before the war and then continued later in life. I picked this one out as it looked like it had potential, and I liked the dial, it's been a bit of a learning curve for a beginner but I was determined to get it going. Now I'm on the final lap it feels good. I'm just wondering whether to invest in a decent set of hand placement tools or stick with the cheap Chinese red thing I have, decisions decision 😆
    • An update, for everyone who contributed advice, and for those who come after with a similar problem. Based on the answers received, I decided to work on the face of the hammer first. I used a square degussit stone to guarantee a vertical surface to work against, and ground the face back until it was square across 90% of the depth. I was conscious of the risk of removing too much material.* After I'd got the shape how I wanted it, I polished the surface with lapping film. To cut a long story short, it did the trick and the hammer hasn't slipped off the cam since. Of course, that wasn't the end of my problems. Have a look at this video and tell me what you think is wrong. https://youtu.be/sgAUMIPaw98 The first four attempts show (0 to 34 sec.) the chrono seconds hand jumping forwards, the next two attempts (35 to 47 sec.) seem "normal", then on the seventh attempt (48 to 54 sec.) the seconds hand jumps to 5 sec. and the minute counter jumps to 1. The rest of the video just shows repeats of these three variants. I solved it by rotating the minute counter finger on the chronograph (seconds) runner relative to the cam.  I'd be interested to hear your opinions on that. It seemed to be the right thing to do, but maybe I've introduced another problem I'm not aware of. * What is the correct relationship between the two hammers and cams, by the way? Should both hammers strike the cams exactly at the same time, or is it correct for the minute counter hammer to be a bit behind the seconds hammer? In this picture, I removed the adjusting screw at 1, and the hammers are contacting the cams simultaneously at 3 and 4. I had to turn the screw down tight to achieve this condition after stoning the seconds hammer and replacing the bridge.
    • It was easy enough to pop off. Once I had the cannon pinion hanging on the blades of the stump, I got my #2 tweezers on the gear attached to the staff and levered it down. That way none of the force was on the brass wheel itself.   I reinstalled it and the bridge, and it looks like a small but reasonable amount of end shake. It also spins easily with a blower. It stops quickly, but I think that's due to the large shoulder and about what I'd expect from this wheel.  
    • Oh, right. For some reason I was picturing a monocoque case in my head. Good looking watch!
    • Well said Ross. My reason for the thread, i like many of us dont want to lose the forum, such a well knitted group of individuals i feel. But things can happen out of anyone's control. Would be nice to have something in place just in case, if anyone has any ideas please speak up. 
×
×
  • Create New...