Jump to content

Does this Movado Auto Chrono Have a Snap-Back?


bangy55

Recommended Posts

Is anyone familiar with this Movado 88-93-890 v91 case? I rarely work on snap-back cased watches and I was to be sure it isn't removed through the crystal side before I attempt to remove the movement. If it is a snap-back, it's really on there. If it comes out the dial side, anyone have any tips? Thanks in advance.

movado caseback reduced.jpg

movado face side reduced.jpg

movado side reduced.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/7/2021 at 3:29 AM, jdm said:

Seems to me that is a reguar snap back case, no front loader.

Thanks, jdm, I feel a bit better about it now. I've just never seen a caseback jammed on so tight. Under the microscope, I can see rust where the caseback and the case must come together so I'm soaking it in penetrating oil just deep enough to cover the joint while I wait for a new shock tool from Cousins. Hope it has the guts to get the job done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, bangy55 said:

 I can see rust where the caseback and the case must come together so I'm soaking it in penetrating oil just deep enough to cover the joint while I wait for a new shock tool from Cousins. Hope it has the guts to get the job done.

I've never tried a shock tool, I'm not even convinced that's the best approach. For sturdy cases I use a lever type covered below, but if not careful may lease some markings, so it's always good to coat in plastic.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Update...

What a marvelous little tool. I was shocked by the "Shock Tool." The very first attempt literally blasted the caseback off and across my bench. I had been soaking the watch in an 1/8" pool of CLP while waiting for the arrival of the $120 or so tool from Cousins. As you can see, there is a layer of it on everything in the case. Sucker was rusted tight. It'll never be a waterproof watch again, but there is no damage beyond where the case and its back met. Happy camper. I can certainly recommend it to you, jdm. Cheers.

rusted shut.JPG

shock tool.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, bangy55 said:

What a marvelous little tool. I was shocked by the "Shock Tool."

Interesting! This is the first time I've heard about this tool. I assume it must be this this tool? How is it used? Do you simply place the blade between the case and the case back and then press the top part (button) to activate the internal hammer? Is the flat side of the bade held against the case (I would assume so) or the case back?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, VWatchie said:

Interesting! This is the first time I've heard about this tool. I assume it must be this this tool? How is it used? Do you simply place the blade between the case and the case back and then press the top part (button) to activate the internal hammer? Is the flat side of the bade held against the case (I would assume so) or the case back?

Hi VWatchie you have 3 blades to chose from, you place the blade into the snap back slot provided and push the main body into the Watch and pop goes the weasel, I mean caseback. You can also adjust the strength of the pressure applied by turning the top of body clockwise or anti clockwise. I have mine on the weakest setting as they have a lot of power on the strongest setting and I have damaged a case. But they are very good at what they are deigned for. They have a strong spring inside the main body and when pressed against the surface it goes to a certain point then bingo. 

Hope this helps https://youtu.be/viVpyuEo0dM

Graziano 

Edited by Graziano
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, dadistic said:

Nice.

I've used center punches that have a similar mechanism, just push instead of banging a hammer. I've been looking for a better opener, I think I'll try this one.

Thanks!

That's exactly what it's like, only on steroids!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, VWatchie said:

Interesting! This is the first time I've heard about this tool. I assume it must be this this tool? How is it used? Do you simply place the blade between the case and the case back and then press the top part (button) to activate the internal hammer? Is the flat side of the bade held against the case (I would assume so) or the case back?

Graziano explained it perfectly. It reminds me of the old impact wrench you'd hit with a hammer and it would turn the screw driver blade while forcing it into the screw slot. Only with the hammer built in. Very powerful.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • in general this shouldn't be any change. but in general questions like this it be nice to know the specifics of the watch in other words how was it performing before it was cased up and what is it doing now.
    • just as a reminder this watch is a Swatch group product. This will bring up a problem like spare parts and technical information. that I found some links to some information on when I talk about your watch and some of the technical and basically your watch is equivalent to 2834-2 for which I'm attaching the technical sheets. But equivalent does not mean exactly the same you want to do a search on the group for C07 as we discussed this watch before including the technical differences how it's supposed to be regulated and basically because it's watch group there is no parts availability. https://calibercorner.com/eta-caliber-c07-xxx/   https://www.chrono24.com/magazine/eta-movements-from-the-2824-2-to-the-powermatic-80-p_80840/ https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/h-10-movement-details.4636991/ eta CT_2834-2_FDE_481857_15.pdf
    • people be honest.... Swatch is evil for the watchmakers and repairers, BUT not everything in watches from Switzerland is from the Swatch-Group. As far as i know, Selitta got sacked by Swatch as a Movement-Assembler for them and they started to produce Movements in their own Name with slight Modifications. As far as i know, they sell Parts to the Market for their Movements. In most cases, if a ETA-Movement fails, it is a valid Option to replace it with a Selitta Movement, which i consider the Solution for this Mess with the Swatch-Group...... I have no Connection to anybody at Selitta, but being a Swiss-Guy, i still like to have Swiss-Made Watches, but not from the Swatch-Group.   ok ? regards, Ernst
    • Just one more greedy act by Swatch. They started a number of years ago here in the US..cutting off supplies to watchmakers that could build complications that many Swatch houses couldn't even touch. Old school masters who had gone through some of the most prestigious houses in the world. Otto Frei has some statements on their page about it. I tell all my customers to avoid new Swiss watches like the plague,..unless they just want an older one in their collection that still has some parts out on the market, or they have really deep pockets and don't mind waiting months and paying through the nose to get it back. Plenty of others to choose from..IE Seiko,..or other non-swiss brands Even a number of Chinese brands are catching up with the Swiss,..and I think that in time, their actions will be their downfall
    • Yes. If that's not what you are experiencing...start looking for something rubbing. A 1st guess is that one of the hands is rubbing against the hole in the center of the dial. Especially if you now have lower amplitude in face up/ face down positions.
×
×
  • Create New...