Jump to content

Replacement screw, and thread types for Poljot 3017 (and others)?


Recommended Posts

Afternoon ladies and gents. 

As seems to happen to some of us mere mortals I have lost an important screw, specifically for a Poljot 3017. I'm quite miffed as there doesn't seem to be any similar screws that can be borrowed from elsewhere. It didn't ping off anywhere, it has just gone into the watch-tinkerers (not watch makers!) Bermuda Triangle somewhere! 

Having looked at a parts list for the 3017 the missing shouldered screw doesn't correspond with a sealed pack of genuine Poljot 3017 58080 screws I was fortunate enough to find (or they found me as is the case) recently. They are indeed shouldered screws but the thread is far too big in diameter and the head too small - they actually look like they are part number 58271 in the wrong box! Can anyone confirm that the description of the part 58080 on the list looks or is correct? I think it is but I'm baffled why the parts are wrong in the sealed pack and am now questioning myself. 

From looking to find a suitable replacement I have realised that there must be a whole host of differing thread types in watches across the whole range of manufacturers out there. Does anyone have any insight into what threads Poljot would have been using around the period of the watch? I have measured the diameter of the thread of the part from another 3017 watch I have and it appears to be 0.018". I only used a general micrometer not a watchmakers one as that's all I have. I managed to measure as best I could the complete specs of the shouldered screw except for the thread pitch so I'm hoping that might help me out at some point. It would be nice to know the thread pitch as I don't think I can measure it accurately.  

I don't really know what my options are here apart from "soak it up"!! Can anyone help to point me in the right direction for obtaining a replacement, as unlikely as that seems?

Any advise greatly received! 

 

PAINT VERSION 1.jpg

PAINT VERSION 2.jpg

Edited by Flagstaff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Flagstaff changed the title to Replacement screw, and thread types for Poljot 3017 (and others)?

I would imagine the screws follow the Swiss norms, at any rate metric. If you go to Asco-Schurch they list the threads with pitch in the PDF (they are describing their taps but it's a handy reference- also has drill size for steel and brass!). They start at 0.30mm, with 0.35, then 0.40 end every 10th of a millimeter after. In the earlier to mid part of last century you would see some other in-between sizes, 0.45, 0.55, 0.65, but fairly rarely. As you've measured 0.018", that comes to 0.457mm; screw threads tend to be slightly under nominal, so to me you want a 0.50mm thread.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/5/2021 at 2:18 PM, nickelsilver said:

I would imagine the screws follow the Swiss norms, at any rate metric. If you go to Asco-Schurch they list the threads with pitch in the PDF (they are describing their taps but it's a handy reference- also has drill size for steel and brass!). They start at 0.30mm, with 0.35, then 0.40 end every 10th of a millimeter after. In the earlier to mid part of last century you would see some other in-between sizes, 0.45, 0.55, 0.65, but fairly rarely. As you've measured 0.018", that comes to 0.457mm; screw threads tend to be slightly under nominal, so to me you want a 0.50mm thread.

Thank you very much, some great info there and the link you posted is great too for now and in future. 

I will use it as a starting point. Not sure I can bring myself to spend too much on a tap in case it's wrong so will need to do some more digging, and hope in the meantime that the offending screw turns up as I'm still looking for it 3 days on! 

I'll perhaps look into other chrono movements and see if I can get one elsewhere. I just hope this hasn't set me on the path of buying a lathe so I can make (or try to) my own screws! 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
    • Have read of the Tech Sheet attached on the balance section page 12. It may be bent but until you reposition it back in the regulator pins you'll never know. Cheers CJ 4R35B_4R36A.pdf
    • Aloha All, My Seiko 4R35B movement stopped working today. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the balance spring came out of the regulator pin. This is my first time working on a balance. Any advice on how to get this spring repositioned (back to normal)? I'm pretty sure that while adjusting the beat error on this movement, I must have turned the stud (I didn't even know they turned), and the spring eventually fell out.  Will the spring go back to even spacing when it's back in the pin, or does it look bent? Thanks, Frank  
×
×
  • Create New...