Jump to content

How big is my loss if I mess up this Waltham?


Recommended Posts

So one of my goals for 2021 (after loosing all those pounds) is teaching myself how to change a balance staff.

I bought myself a staking set and chose this nice big movement from my old stash as a guinea pig. It's marked 16443683

My question is, I have no clue how much/if this thing is worth and there is a chance that I'll mess it up beyond repair. Does anyone know a ballpark amount this would fetch when working? Is it worth risking this movement?

Thanks

20210118_203207.thumb.jpg.6500dccae564fbe6638979e8b2851a6c.jpg20210118_202934.thumb.jpg.29b0c1a3ee82d78140f0207dac1366ca.jpg20210118_202946.thumb.jpg.a8912f771761b03b79c8fbfc120ab15f.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Tuvia said:

Thanks all! I guess you're right. I'll practice on a movement without a case and then move on to this once I'm confident enough. 

Found these in the stash, I guess they'll be sacrificing themselves... 

20210127_103558.thumb.jpg.352ed38bf426c7a200efe1f87ff32904.jpg20210127_103540.thumb.jpg.946aa7bd3ae980bd96023e920655de1b.jpg

Did you already look at both Balance Staffs? Are they both broken? ?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you a lathe? Only asking as some staffs are riveted on and the rivet lip needs to be cut off by using a lathe. There are tools out there that will punch the staff out, they do work but can occasionally damage the hole in the balance wheel.

Unless of course they are friction fit staffs then you are home and dry with the staking set mate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, transporter said:

Have you a lathe? Only asking as some staffs are riveted on and the rivet lip needs to be cut off by using a lathe. There are tools out there that will punch the staff out, they do work but can occasionally damage the hole in the balance wheel.

Unless of course they are friction fit staffs then you are home and dry with the staking set mate.

I haven't really examined them up close yet. If it's anything more than a basic swap I think I'll look for a different one. I want to start with the simple (if I am even allowed to call it that) stuff. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
×
×
  • Create New...