Jump to content

Watch Dial Numbers

mcoulton

By mcoulton
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

mcoulton Watch Enthusiast

mcoulton

Posted
Posted

Hello

I have a question about the watch dial I'm working on. The numbers: are they painted on or lumed? I've scraped away the "2" and I'm wondering if I should paint it or lume it. If I'm going t repaint it, then what type of paint would I use? Was it common to lume numbers? 

Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided. 

Michael

Watch Dial - Copy.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted

My wild guess is that it's lume. It's interesting dial in that they printed the outline of the numbers. This would allow somebody to hand paint the luminescent material on and know where to do it. It'd be interesting to knowing the time frame that the dial and/or watch was made. I'm guessing because it says the word waterproof we can narrow it down for that. Finding a modern luminescent material that's darkening colors going to be interesting. Then because this is a holder luminescent material it's probably dark because it's radium based. But you need a Geiger counter to verify that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mcoulton Watch Enthusiast

mcoulton

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks John for the reply.

The movement itself is an FHF 175, so from the 40's or 50's. I'm thinking of re-luming the dial and hands. If the watch was water proof the case gasket is no where to be found. Then again maybe only the dial is waterproof and the rest of the time piece isn't ! ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
KOwatch Watch Enthusiast

KOwatch

Posted
Posted

As I've heard it, "waterproof" was what they called water-resistant watches before the 1960s when consumer protection laws were put into place limiting use of the misleading phrase in the US.

Almost certainly radium lume, radioactive, half-life of 1600+ years, don't breathe the dust, read up on material safety when working with it.

Some people love the tired old brown lume look, and will replace lume to preserve the look or pay big $$$ for original examples. Others call it dog-s**t lume, and will re-lume the watch to make it look green/white like the lume did when new (except with safe modern lume compound).

I've got a few 1950s watches where the lume dots (circles and triangles) have outlines painted on the dial.

Absolutely would need to replace the gasket, crown and probably crystal to regain water resistance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • watchweasol
      Chronograph Pusher Rod for EB8371-67 Snapped and Stuck in Button. Can't Unscrew.

      By watchweasol · Posted

      Hi. Yes I get it , the slot in the end I’d to allow you to screw the button on whilst holding the pusher shaft. To remove the pusher tube you will need a tool such as the one shown by Richard. I think Ali Express the Chinese Amazon has replicas of the Horotec system for a lot less money, how effective they are not having had to use one. But as you said the way to go is complete removal and replacement, bodging it up will  lead to a repeat failure
    • JohnR725
      Notifications

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      It does look like it seems to be working again I'm getting emails.
    • JohnR725
      30T2 adjustment of timing washers

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      One of the things that I've been bothered with lately is timekeeping? For instance a 90-year-old pocket watch what so to timekeeping was it supposed to keep? They publish railroad timekeeping but I don't know how well normal non-railroad watches were supposed to keep time. The reason why the question comes up for me is I spend a lot of time at work adjusting watches to keep really really good time  because I have to please my boss where as when the watch was made I have to wonder what kind timekeeping would've been acceptable. After all they typically didn't have timing machines 100 years ago and they were timing and six positions certainly not for the non-railroad grade watch. On the other hand I do get paid by the hour so maybe I shouldn't be concerned of how much time I Spend trying to make everything keep chronometer timekeeping almost. Citing a Delta of 40 seconds for a 90-year-old watch is quite outstanding.
    • JohnR725
      Is this pallet fork over-locking?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      That's an interesting question which I don't think I've seen explained anywhere. But I think the problem will go away just about instantaneously. In other words the  coating is really thin and it should go away almost immediately. So the problem should resolve itself extremely fast.  
    • VWatchie
      Is this pallet fork over-locking?

      By VWatchie · Posted

      I experienced that different types of shellac and their ages are affected differently by IPA. Sometimes the shellac dissolves in a few seconds and sometimes several minutes are required. Nowadays I never let shellac come into contact with IPA. It's a hotly debated topic here on WRT if you search. Like John, I don't think you need to worry about the weight of the shellac, but instead that it might start rubbing against something. When I learned how to adjust pallet stones, I tried documenting my experiences in this thread. Hopefully, it can help you. I personally don't believe in the idea of abrading the epilame before oiling so I don't think you need to think or worry about it. The only time I've heard anyone mention this is Alex on the YouTube channel Watch Repair Tutorials but actually no one else. I'm not saying it's "wrong" just that I don't think it's necessary or adds anything.
×
×
  • Create New...