Jump to content

Mainspring for pocket watch


Recommended Posts

After having experimented with some very cheap watches I thought it was time to attempt something a little nicer. Bought this silver pocket watch and took it apart. Noticed quite a few of the jewels were shattered so is likely to be beyond my skill set at the moment to restore anyway. Despite that, I decided, probably unwisely, to examine the mainspring and measure it up for a replacement so rendering it useless in the process.

The measurement I have taken are: 

  • Height: 2.6mm
  • Thickness 0.2mm
  • Length: 520mm
  • ID of barrel: 16.5mm
  • Type TR

Then I find out there is no replacement to be found in the TR book which I accessed through the Cousins website. Am I not looking properly or have I made a big mistake in assuming a replacement could be found?

Many thanks.

IMG_20210115_184200[1].jpg

IMG_20210122_153041[1].jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Extractor said:

After having experimented with some very cheap watches I thought it was time to attempt something a little nicer. Bought this silver pocket watch and took it apart. Noticed quite a few of the jewels were shattered so is likely to be beyond my skill set at the moment to restore anyway. Despite that, I decided, probably unwisely, to examine the mainspring and measure it up for a replacement so rendering it useless in the process.

The measurement I have taken are: 

  • Height: 2.6mm
  • Thickness 0.2mm
  • Length: 520mm
  • ID of barrel: 16.5mm
  • Type TR

Then I find out there is no replacement to be found in the TR book which I accessed through the Cousins website. Am I not looking properly or have I made a big mistake in assuming a replacement could be found?

Many thanks.

IMG_20210115_184200[1].jpg

IMG_20210122_153041[1].jpg

You can never be sure that the mainspring that is currently fitted is the right one. Check what size is needed for this caliber first, or measure the depth of the barrel and subtract 0.1mm to verify is 2.6mm is right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Poljot said:

You can never be sure that the mainspring that is currently fitted is the right one. Check what size is needed for this caliber first, or measure the depth of the barrel and subtract 0.1mm to verify is 2.6mm is right.

Ah, that opens up quite a few more possibilities. The barrel depth is 3.4mm so it can be a considerably wider mainspring as long as I stay within 3.2mm to build in a little safety margin. You are right that the current mainspring almost certainly was not the correct one.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Extractor said:

Ah, that opens up quite a few more possibilities. The barrel depth is 3.4mm so it can be a considerably wider mainspring as long as I stay within 3.2mm to build in a little safety margin. You are right that the current mainspring almost certainly was not the correct one.

 

 

Exactly!

However, 3.4mm seems to be very deep, are you measuring correctly? What is the movement?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

Cousins lists a GR 6801, 2.60 x 0.20 x 540 16.5, that would work perfectly. It has a normal "tongue end", which will work fine with the hook in your barrel.

If the exact spring cannot be found, in what order of importance would you rate the different parameters? I would have thought that the type, height and ID of the barrel are absolute requirements. Thickness and length less so?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Extractor said:

If the exact spring cannot be found, in what order of importance would you rate the different parameters? I would have thought that the type, height and ID of the barrel are absolute requirements. Thickness and length less so?

Strength, height, length.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Extractor said:

The main reference I can find is 'The Semloh Lever' and '999' which, after some searching has led me to this:

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Cyma_999

And:

https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/another-pocket-watch-incoming.4975015/

Looks quite similar. Holmes spelt backwards? What on earth....?

IMG_20210115_184237[1].jpg

Well, then here is your mainspring: 2.95 x 17.0 x 0.19mm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Extractor said:

I have measured with the depth gauge of a Mitutoyo caliper, resting the the base on two sides of the curvature, allowing the depth probe to reach the bottom, keeping it as parallel as I could manage.

Right, you are measuring to the top edge - do not forget that barrel lid takes some space also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Poljot said:

2.80 x .205 x 600 x 18 TR- End

GR7002TR

Almost, but not quite. The 18 is too big as barrel ID is only 16.5mm (17mm on the reference sheet linked above so my measurement is likely to be 0.5mm off).

2 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

Cousins lists a GR 6801, 2.60 x 0.20 x 540 16.5, that would work perfectly. It has a normal "tongue end", which will work fine with the hook in your barrel.

With TR springs being difficult to find, would a DBH not work better than a normal bridle? I am thinking that the hook at least has a hole to engage in?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Extractor said:

Almost, but not quite. The 18 is too big as barrel ID is only 16.5mm (17mm on the reference sheet linked above so my measurement is likely to be 0.5mm off).

Do not be concerned about 16.50mm Vs 17.00mm. All it means that you will not be able to push it in, but nothing stops you from using a mainspring winder, or your fingers to install the mainspring. 2.8 is way better choice than 2.6 for your deep barrel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

The Otto Frei web site carries mainsprings as well, categorized by end-type, strength/thickness, height, and length.  If you should ever have trouble getting the spring you need at Cousins (which I think would be rare) then Otto Frei is a handy back-up.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Ok thanks Ross, I will give that a try!😁
    • Welcome my friend. 
    • Been there. Worn that Tshirt.  'ping'. Hands and knees. Nothing. Nada. 20 minutes? Ha! I found it 7 month later. How? Well, after advice from a member, I invested in a £4 UV light torch.  Hands and knees looking for a 'ping' from a Sekonda, found them both within 30 seconds. UV makes the jewel shine. easy peasy. Could have taken longer. Just lucky on the location of the search. Hope this helps.
    • Thanks Dell. I thought about silver soldering. Have never done it but would like to give it a go. Do you think to put flux on the butted joint then run the solder in or to maybe brace it with a piece of scrap spring steel?
    • Never and others. Yes, like you I do spend a fair amount of time reading the contents of this forum. I find it better that any other. Clear, lucid, no Prima Donas, and most of all an easy access without adverts. All thanks to Mark. God bless you mate. You give so much to many of us. What if? No Mark? Hypothetically. A forum. I did run a forum for a few years. Really enjoyed it, but became so engrossed that it did affect my health. I gave to to others to run. Not been back. It was very successful and rivalled a number of large paying sites. No adverts, no others but me. I did ask and listen to members comments and it worked well.    Costs Having a domain name, £10 annually.  Register the site with a forum company, free. Build the site using the forum company guide lines, free. It looked and ran almost the same a Mark's. All the same facilities. The cost was only £5 per month, but counted visits (views). If I recall, it was that price for 5,000 views. Each extra 5,000 views increased the price by £2 per month. Success was my own personal undoing. From £5 per month initially, it rose to £60 a month and looked like increasing. This was 10 years ago. I could not afford that, and asked it anyone would like to take over and someone did. I would assume that this is the price that Mark is funding for us all. His return is our continued comments on the internet about his course, and the fact that many of the big names on YouTube mention him as their Tutor. Those of us who have done, and are still using, his course, benefit. In comparison to other courses, I can't believe how cheap it is, and the value is exceptional. It is the structure that gives the value. Long may Mark reign. Ross  
×
×
  • Create New...