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Landeron 51 Chronograph disassembly


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In preparation for the repair of my own chronograph, I found this one amongst the watch graveyard and decided to take it down and put it back together.  These are the photos of the disassembly.  After disassembly, I put forth an effort to clean the parts with Ronsonol.  I was not passionate about the clean because the purpose was to validate both disassembly and reassembly.  I am happy to say that everything went off without a hitch.  I even removed the mainspring and found the appropriate mainspring winder among my dad's tools.  No problem.  The hairspring was quite gnarly due to the watch's misadventures among others in the scrapyard!  I did my best to straighten it.  It tic'ed a few strokes when I realized that it was way out of beat.  So, after watching some videos, I rotated the hairspring  until it was close.  It tic'ed a little more, but the hairspring was just not playing along.  That is OK, I accomplished the goal of tear down and rebuild, and I also got to experiment with hairspring adjustments.  No springs, and no screws were lost!!one.png.c06c228e2f93ae66aeca208caf416a11.pngtwo.png.5fb2636194f6d678852ce95e2190f6ba.pngthree.png.ce32e5a559e090afb4845b92ab88d718.pngfour.png.1fa0adb44d51e717335c26e3ec52d438.pngfive.png.d64d5a8bb37d90396d61faf26f3f2fbf.pngsix.png.be34b6e78163ea53330f7fe4e60e7d2d.pngseven.png.18f51c6ea816412fc88fa9e6b7040ac4.pngeight.png.8c3e3ce69293c99e7d995f208eb81be2.pngten.png.624ccbfa26b255aa9be86f4676d90367.pngeleven.png.43a45be94ad4d2b263ba5998705821da.pngtwelve.png.074a2f83a044adf5a6f86a1bf798411c.png

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  • 3 weeks later...

I decided to dedicate some money to a complete restore.  Found a balance complete for a 248 on ebay and purchased it.  Ranfft indicates the 248 is derived from the 48 as is the 51 which I have.  Many parts interchangeable.  We will see.  Next up will be to find a suitable dial and hands.  Seen a few on ebay.  I have a dial, so maybe have it restored...¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Stay tuned!!

As noted originally, this is in part to continue to hone my skills before attacking my Valjoux.

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    • people be honest.... Swatch is evil for the watchmakers and repairers, BUT not everything in watches from Switzerland is from the Swatch-Group. As far as i know, Selitta got sacked by Swatch as a Movement-Assembler for them and they started to produce Movements in their own Name with slight Modifications. As far as i know, they sell Parts to the Market for their Movements. In most cases, if a ETA-Movement fails, it is a valid Option to replace it with a Selitta Movement, which i consider the Solution for this Mess with the Swatch-Group...... I have no Connection to anybody at Selitta, but being a Swiss-Guy, i still like to have Swiss-Made Watches, but not from the Swatch-Group.   ok ? regards, Ernst
    • Just one more greedy act by Swatch. They started a number of years ago here in the US..cutting off supplies to watchmakers that could build complications that many Swatch houses couldn't even touch. Old school masters who had gone through some of the most prestigious houses in the world. Otto Frei has some statements on their page about it. I tell all my customers to avoid new Swiss watches like the plague,..unless they just want an older one in their collection that still has some parts out on the market, or they have really deep pockets and don't mind waiting months and paying through the nose to get it back. Plenty of others to choose from..IE Seiko,..or other non-swiss brands Even a number of Chinese brands are catching up with the Swiss,..and I think that in time, their actions will be their downfall
    • Yes. If that's not what you are experiencing...start looking for something rubbing. A 1st guess is that one of the hands is rubbing against the hole in the center of the dial. Especially if you now have lower amplitude in face up/ face down positions.
    • Once a movement has the dial and hands put back and it is recased, would you expect the assembled watch to have the same amplitude as when the movement is in a movement holder and is without hands and dial? Thanks
    • C07641+ not sure what the "+" is for after the last digit.
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