Jump to content

Waterproof Testers


omgiv

Recommended Posts

Also the professional divers I know tend to replace their gaskets every 2 to 3 years and have them tested.
Most failures tend to be at the crown gasket rather than the cashback due to neglect of that gasket.
For me, splashing around in the sea or swimming pool. The standard 3atm test, will be more than sufficient, after any work carried out.
If you are diving. Attention to your tanks and gauges are more desirable, if you wish to reach a ripe old age [emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

30 minutes ago, digginstony said:

Also the professional divers I know tend to replace their gaskets every 2 to 3 years and have them tested.
Most failures tend to be at the crown gasket rather than the cashback due to neglect of that gasket.
For me, splashing around in the sea or swimming pool. The standard 3atm test, will be more than sufficient, after any work carried out.
If you are diving. Attention to your tanks and gauges are more desirable, if you wish to reach a ripe old age emoji16.png

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 

These are the standards required.

5993f9373342f_ScreenShot2017-08-16at08_35_35.png.76fe94fc2f2ffc376d9faff95d68db74.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The point is, a watch either leaks or it doesn't. I would of liked a better machine or even a Elma dry tester (Have you seen the price of them !)
If I was a serious diver my choice of watch wouldn't be the Rolex sub but the Sinn.
Same as if I were in the middle of nowhere in rugged terrain, my choice wouldn't be the Rolex explorer but the Casio g shock.
I once went under a waterfall only to be met by another and I was on the wrong end of it and literally had to fight the current back.
I forgot to take my watch off. It was a Swatch fitted with an eta 2841-1. No bar rating does say water resistant. Domed acrylic crystal. Never let in any water.
Haven't worn this watch for years. Just taken it out it's plastic bag and it's started ticking !

ac08f8c3c6e4732856e7b6f5b93c9608.jpg

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/15/2017 at 5:23 PM, digginstony said:

 

I've just ordered one of these testers. Looking on youtube how to use one. Says you have to remove the bracelet. This can be a real pain with solid endlinks. Do any of you guys leave the bracelet on and rig it somehow ?

Yes, leaving the bracelet is perfectly fine. All you need is to position it to be able to look at the back and crown to spot the bubbles, if any.

Also, testing above 5 or 6 bar , which is a lot already, is next to useless.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Some more testing.
Today I tested my Seiko turtle, mainly because it was running slow when bought this year, brand new from a dealer in Malta. And the best error was 0.7 face up. So I adjusted and regulated it. I did notice when it arrived, it was boxed but the watch had no wrapping on it. I didn't bother to change the case back gasket, so I thought I would give it a test. It FAILED on the crown gasket !
The second watch was a Rotary/ Omega homage. It has no water resistant rating but the bold statement on the dial (WATERPROOF) Thought that was not used these days !!! But by implication has an indefinite rating. It FAILED on the Crystal gasket ! The watch has never been apart.
Third was my 4 year old Seiko that's had a hard life. I've just finished a refurb on it. I used the old gaskets ! When assembling so thought I better test it. It passed with flying colours. My Skx did as well.
The point is, if going anywhere near water, test or have your watch tested, even if brand new.
I believe Manufacturers are reluctant to take liability on there watches, even if a certified diver. The test is considered valid on the day of testing. Best of luck getting a replacement watch after your watch stops after a couple of years because the movement has rusted up [emoji21]d143d2a007a811448a1d0f012f7a8233.jpg778eec72dffea6516a07004955cbe359.jpg

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Every repair or bat. replacement on a water resistant watch will be tested dry on my ACL2000.
If there is a leakage I remove movement and test the case without movement wet to determine the location of the leakage. Mostly a filthy crown package is the guilty suspect.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Every repair or bat. replacement on a water resistant watch will be tested dry on my ACL2000.
If there is a leakage I remove movement and test the case without movement wet to determine the location of the leakage. Mostly a filthy crown package is the guilty suspect.
Yep I think you're right. Now I come to think about It, when I first got the turtle I found the screw down a bit awkward. Never thought to take the stem out. Just put a bit of oil on the thread. Which seemed to fix it. I bet I've got a bit of crud stuck under there. Will take it out and clean. Thankyou

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/5/2017 at 0:48 PM, digginstony said:

 It FAILED on the crown gasket !
The second watch was a Rotary/ Omega homage. It has no water resistant rating but the bold statement on the dial (WATERPROOF) Thought that was not used these days !!! But by implication has an indefinite rating. It FAILED on the Crystal gasket ! The watch has never been apart.

It's common for divers, even brand new, to leak one or three tiny bubbles from the crown tune, at 3 -4 atm already. That is not a complete failure and it does not prevent normal use at the beach. The solution is sensible application of silicone grease to the crown gasket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Every repair or bat. replacement on a water resistant watch will be tested dry on my ACL2000.
If there is a leakage I remove movement and test the case without movement wet to determine the location of the leakage. Mostly a filthy crown package is the guilty suspect.
Just to update. I've had the stem out cleaned around the case where there was a deposit of dirt where the crown sits. The stem and crown and gasket looked ok but put it through the UC anyway.
Just pressure tested and no more stream of bubbles. Job done.
Many thanks again for your help


Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's common for divers, even brand new, to leak one or three tiny bubbles from the crown tune, at 3 -4 atm already. That is not a complete failure and it does not prevent normal use at the beach. The solution is sensible application of silicone grease to the crown gasket.
It was more than the odd bubble [emoji5]

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Got My Calipso Tester about a week ago and have read Mark's comments above - I just want to check I'm doing it right. 

I'm pretty happy with it - seems a good quality piece of kit and have got the gist of how it works.  Just want to check a couple of things.
 
Q) When you pressure up the machine with the watch in the top section, if the watch seals aren't good, it forces air into the watch case.  Should you wait a set period of time to allow this to happen - or do you move to the next stage (i.e immersion in the water) straight away?   
 
Q) If after immersion - on slowly releasing the pressure with the valve - is it VERY obvious that there may be a problem i.e. a continuous stream of bubbles exiting the case from the weak point?  When I've done it with a bezel still attached I have seen the odd beading (beading is the best way I can describe it) of a couple of bubbles forming.   Since then, I've been doing this with the bezel off in case there is air trapped around the bezel giving me a false impression of a fail.   
 
Also, has anyone seen - or got a link to a video of a failed test.
 
Thanks in advance, Jason
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
×
×
  • Create New...