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Hello Together 

I have been tinkering with watches for 1.5 years. I am getting better from time to time and mainly deal with larger movements to practice. I still want to learn a lot of things, my goal being to do a reliable watch service for private purposes later on. 
Kind regards from Switzerland, 
thebosston. 

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    • Joe, I know you have this feeling that drive wheels on an extended 3rd wheel pivot go flying around but I gotta say in 20+ years I've never opened a watch with a loose drive wheel and never had a comeback from taking one off and refitting it. The forces here are tiny, and just a little friction is needed. Hands are usually fitted much tighter.   As to cleaning up that pinion, it could easily go in a jacot with an appropriate carrier (drive dog) in a lantern, and polished up with either a thin burnisher or polishing paste on pegwood.  It definitely needs some cleaning up. If you have a lathe, try chucking the pinion in the headstock,  the a piece of pegwood in the tailstock, run the lathe slowly and hold the long spindly bit true with brass tweezers while you bring up the chucked pegwood.  Should bore into it, then provide enough support to do the finishing work near the pinion. If the far pivot end is also manky (looks ok in photo) just twirling some pegwood down it should clean it up. Continue pushing the tailstock pegwood in the above example should work.
    • If this is for the ETA 1093 that you mentioned in another post then you need 10.103.11.312 and 10.100.20 10.100.20.pdf 10.103.11.312.pdf the "10" on the left of each number denotes the hole size.
    • It's U.S., and an amazing movement, probably the best wristwatch made in the U.S., on par with the best Swiss of the time (mid 50s). No JB Weld on this one please!
    • I use the same size tweezers for handling wristwatch and pocket watch parts; 1AM brass. No.2 steel are also good for handling almost anything, as long as you are gentle. No.5 steel for tweaking hairsprings etc. but not for picking things up.
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