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    • I just tried the fit of the PA370-10 as far as the OD holding the crystal snugly. It does. So the OD is good for the bezel, but the ID is too big for the case back. If the crystal held to the case-back, I think all would be good, as the snug fit would hold the crystal to the bezel well enough, methinks. Rather than trying to modify a blank, or find the exact crystal, I am considering UV gluing the crystal to the case back. Since it will still be able to be pressed out from the bezel/lug part, it might work. The hang-up will be at some point down the line when I have to service the movement again. However, I might be able to be sparing enough, but strong enough, with the glue to be able to break it free and clean it up with acetone at that point. Comments? Thanks again.  
    • What size does the movement have. And as oldhippy says it would be easier if we could see the keyless work. My guess  is a  FHF movement. 
    • I've made a few watch tools which are available on my thingiverse here. Simple design movement holders which I like as they're easy to make in online cad software to whatever size you require and hold the movements firmly and no risk of marking them or other damage. https://www.thingiverse.com/m1ks/designs
    • I've just measured some of the generic shepherds crook springs that you can get from Cousins: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/shepherds-hook-springs-wristwatch Whilst these of course aren't click springs, they do come in a variety of widths ... including the 0.15mm you need. They're also quite large so should give enough material to perhaps adapt / shape for the click spring you need.  They're also inexpensive so might be worth a punt if you come up blank through other routes. Just an idea... 
    • Yes the loose pin is a guide pin from a bridge, but from which you have to find out your self. I'm still pussled about that tube in the jewel, how is it supposed the lubrication comes on to the wheel pivot from the oil cup?   
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