Jump to content

Seiko 7005a


Recommended Posts

Hi all, this is a question born of distraction and I’m sure it’ll get me some interesting replies. ?

is it just me or does anyone else have a problem lining up the escape wheel with the B&T bridge?  I’ve taken apart and (mostly) reassembled 6138’s and 6139’s and not had much issue. I thought, naively, that the 7005a would be a straightforward strip and rebuild to practice on but I’m continually stumped!  When I’ve finally got the escape properly seated, the rest of the gears refuse to move. Maybe I have too much time on my hands. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, LonglineOjoe said:

Hi all, this is a question born of distraction and I’m sure it’ll get me some interesting replies. ?

is it just me or does anyone else have a problem lining up the escape wheel with the B&T bridge?  I’ve taken apart and (mostly) reassembled 6138’s and 6139’s and not had much issue. I thought, naively, that the 7005a would be a straightforward strip and rebuild to practice on but I’m continually stumped!  When I’ve finally got the escape properly seated, the rest of the gears refuse to move. Maybe I have too much time on my hands. 

maybe the jewel is cracked. Never had any issues like this on any seiko 7xxx movements.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would add the gears in one at a time to see which one is jamming the gear train. 

The mainspring can also bind. Check for wear. And as above inspect all jewels.

This should be easy after a 6138 rebuild!

Good Luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The seiko 7 series are usually straight forward.  Assemble it bit by bit testing at each stage, Barrel, the train, check. escapement wheel, check. fork/pallet, check action with one turn on the spring is it snappy  if so add the balance.  the thing is check the freedom of rotation at each stage.   You might find the attached sheet handy

Seiko 7005A.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • in general this shouldn't be any change. but in general questions like this it be nice to know the specifics of the watch in other words how was it performing before it was cased up and what is it doing now.
    • just as a reminder this watch is a Swatch group product. This will bring up a problem like spare parts and technical information. that I found some links to some information on when I talk about your watch and some of the technical and basically your watch is equivalent to 2834-2 for which I'm attaching the technical sheets. But equivalent does not mean exactly the same you want to do a search on the group for C07 as we discussed this watch before including the technical differences how it's supposed to be regulated and basically because it's watch group there is no parts availability. https://calibercorner.com/eta-caliber-c07-xxx/   https://www.chrono24.com/magazine/eta-movements-from-the-2824-2-to-the-powermatic-80-p_80840/ https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/h-10-movement-details.4636991/ eta CT_2834-2_FDE_481857_15.pdf
    • people be honest.... Swatch is evil for the watchmakers and repairers, BUT not everything in watches from Switzerland is from the Swatch-Group. As far as i know, Selitta got sacked by Swatch as a Movement-Assembler for them and they started to produce Movements in their own Name with slight Modifications. As far as i know, they sell Parts to the Market for their Movements. In most cases, if a ETA-Movement fails, it is a valid Option to replace it with a Selitta Movement, which i consider the Solution for this Mess with the Swatch-Group...... I have no Connection to anybody at Selitta, but being a Swiss-Guy, i still like to have Swiss-Made Watches, but not from the Swatch-Group.   ok ? regards, Ernst
    • Just one more greedy act by Swatch. They started a number of years ago here in the US..cutting off supplies to watchmakers that could build complications that many Swatch houses couldn't even touch. Old school masters who had gone through some of the most prestigious houses in the world. Otto Frei has some statements on their page about it. I tell all my customers to avoid new Swiss watches like the plague,..unless they just want an older one in their collection that still has some parts out on the market, or they have really deep pockets and don't mind waiting months and paying through the nose to get it back. Plenty of others to choose from..IE Seiko,..or other non-swiss brands Even a number of Chinese brands are catching up with the Swiss,..and I think that in time, their actions will be their downfall
    • Yes. If that's not what you are experiencing...start looking for something rubbing. A 1st guess is that one of the hands is rubbing against the hole in the center of the dial. Especially if you now have lower amplitude in face up/ face down positions.
×
×
  • Create New...