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1903 (circa, and later) open face with Minerva model #3 movement.


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The fourth of five pocket watches my brother sent to me to service: an open-face with Minerva model #3. Straight-line anchor lever, "visible pallets", double roller, 15 jewels. The case is silver with rose gold trim, marked 0.800 fine, stamped with the Halbmond und Reichskröne of the German assay office for export to Germany, case serial #754944. I will edit, or reply, to include more details later if I am able to learn more.
This one has a fine Swiss movement in marvelous shape, wheels are perfect, pivots look great, everything in there in meticulous shape and ready to run, needing only a good cleaning, lube, and possibly regulation. But the case on the other hand...just refer to the pictures below. The bow has somehow been *torn* from its pendant. The crystal looks as though it has been skittering down a street like an expensive stand-in for a hockey puck. And the face had the classic marks of some careless "tech" prying the dial off by force: divots in the porcelain directly on the other side of the dial feet (4:30 & 10:30). So for this watch, it is more in need of case restoration than any mechanical repair. But that's okay; I've been practicing this kind of thing.
 - For the crystal - I have been buffing it with basic toothpaste. (Chuck wanted to keep the original if possible.)  And it's actually coming around, slowly but surely.
 - For the dial - I have already repaired it with my dial enamel and it looks loads better; barely noticeable at a foot or two away.
 - For the pendant - If you look at the first picture, with the dial facing you, the right side of the pendant has a kind of brass fitting, or ferule. I am turning a piece of brass to that exact size and shape. It will be mounted using silver solder, which I will build up around the edges where the original metal is absent. Then to gently file and buff down to shape. After that I will reinstall the bow.

EDIT:  included original photo of the movement which I forgot to do earlier.

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Edited by KarlvonKoln
Edit to include extra photo.
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    • I picked up a similar amount of these jewels some years ago in a watch and clock fair. Every now and then they come in handy. This week I've got a rubbed in bombe jewel in the balance cock that is cracked and needs replacing. Very handy to have a vintage assortment of these type of jewels!
    • Great diagram with the teeth and pinion count. Simple way to reduce the speed of the hour wheel by the 12:1 minute wheel. Genius and yet so simple. Always good to reinforce the principal by what you have done in your drawing. Keep doing that. I had a drawing on my wall for years showing me this which is very similar to the drawing you have done. Here's a formula to work out the beats per hour of a watch movement. The movement's BPH is dictated by the wheel teeth and pinion count and the hairspring being vibrated to the correct BPH by finding the pinning up point on the hairspring using a vibrating tool.  The reason in the formula there is X2 on the top line is because there are two pallet stones.
    • So I just wanted to say "thank you" again.  The angle is the key bit it seems and yes, it did basically just fall, or float, back into position when I got it lined up just right. I had meant to add that now that I see how it goes in, I totally see how it came out in the first place, and that whomever cloned the original movement didn't pay much attention to the fine details around the setting or how it interfaces with the balance cock or the "rings" on the regulator and/or stud carrier arms.
    • Well I’ve never seen the make before and cannot find any info, I haven’t got it just yet it’s been left to me among a 1970’s sea master and a mid size yeoman. But if anyone has any information on this one please feel free to enlighten me, many thanks 
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