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NY Standard, grade 44, circa 1894


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The first of a series of commission work I'm doing for my brother.  First, a few details:
New York Standard Watch Co. circa 1894.
Grade = 44, Model = 1, Serial no. 569817
Size 6s, hunting case w/cuvette, #151432, case maker unknown at present, but may be in-house.
Seven jewels, unadjusted, compensating balance.
Stem wind, lever set. damaskeened nickel finish on movement.
I think he picked up a few non-runners in a flea market as a lot (not sure, but I'm going to ask).  This is #1 of 5 that I'll be working on.  The pictures show how it came to me.  So far, I've had to replace the mainspring because the doggone thing decided at some point in its life to break *right in the middle*.  No crystal, so it's been measured for a new one.  The balance was not only overbanked, but very sluggish.  My microscope didn't show any damage from the overbank, but there was so much old black grime in the holes and on the shoulders of the pivots, that the pivots themselves were a bit scored.  Yay for having a Jacot tool!  Burnishing did the trick. Balance is smooth, no wobble, hairspring is practically flawless and expands and contracts elegantly. Movement got a good cleaning, fresh oil and is now running and I will be regulating it in a bit.  I got caught up in polishing the case and replacing the stem set screw (as the old one's head was badly chewed up).  So far, I think I can return it to like-new condition.  BTW: check out the beautiful way they did the Geneva stripes on the plate!  As you angle it in the light the damaskeening shifts and turns and it's just so darned beautiful!  After work today, I will be posting new photos of the progress I've made.

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Edited by KarlvonKoln
edited for clarity
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New (technically NOS) mainspring installed and working perfectly.  Balance was overbanked and filthy.  But I had to strip it down anyway, so all the holes were pegged and everything got a wash, and I made use of my Jacot tool because the balance pivots looked slightly scored by some harsh dirt and grime.  I runs so smoothly now.  It still isn't completely done yet though; I have a new crystal on the way, so I've been keeping the lid shut (except for this pretty picture here).
The case was cleaned too, but it is discolored enough in spots that the polishing goods I have at hand could only do so much.  In parts, the gold was worn through, and the brass fill had darkened considerably.  While the case looks loads better than it did, I kind of wish I had electroplating equipment; that's what this case really needs.  It has spots that I could only lighten, but never really get to gleam.

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Edited by KarlvonKoln
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32 minutes ago, KarlvonKoln said:

While the case looks loads better than it did, I kind of wish I had electroplating equipment; that's what this case really needs.

The only problem with electroplating the case is matching the shade of gold. I have a vague memory of some time in the distant past a watch was electroplated and the shade a gold was different somehow. I think what the watch companies were using when they were doing their electroplating was they grabbed the easiest closest source a goal they had which was a gold coin. I don't know how that color wise would differ with modern gold plating.

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Darn, you're right.  I think this case was 14k, but I'm not sure.  So, if I were to electroplate accordingly, and it was something else, some other gold variety, then that's not gonna fly. 

Well, I may pull the movement out again and see if I  can work the blemishes a bit more.

EDIT: you know, to look at it in person, as opposed to comparing the case to the pictures on my screen, it doesn't look too bad in its polished state.  Pictures suck at conveying the reality; it presents itself rather well I think.  Granted, in some spots I was polishing the brass alongside the gold, but overall it's getting a nice shine that doesn't translate as well into pictures as I'd like.

Edited by KarlvonKoln
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    • Snap! I recently finished my Gruen 510 movement - though the case for mine is in a rather sad state; I'm going to try re-plating it (in nickel, it's not a gold one).   Re. the screws, I got a few of the one gram mixed batches from ebay. I've only needed a couple of screws for things so far, both rare, minuscule types - but both in the mix, after enough time sorting through them! The ones such as normal bridge screws are quite common in those lots.  
    • Two pins or screwdrivers angled out slightly, pressing through from the barrel centre from the opposite side so they contact just clear of the hole in the lid? eg. Strap pin driver needles or similar.
    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
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