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A little advise needed!


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Happy New Year guys and ladies!!! Quick question.  On the cap jewels, does the flat side face up or the concave side. Reason I'm asking tried replace cap jewel on one of the wheels,  well the the retainer spring will lock in but will not lock in will concave facing up. Im working on a ST 36 movement.  This is my first movement project,  and well learning alot lol. I've disassembled movement cleaned and oiled. After springing jewels, shock springs , etc. Im amazed how far these tiny parts fly lol! Im so ready to complete this build. Thank you all. 

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22 minutes ago, kendallronin said:

Happy New Year guys and ladies!!! Quick question.  On the cap jewels, does the flat side face up or the concave side. Reason I'm asking tried replace cap jewel on one of the wheels,  well the the retainer spring will lock in but will not lock in will concave facing up. Im working on a ST 36 movement.  This is my first movement project,  and well learning alot lol. I've disassembled movement cleaned and oiled. After springing jewels, shock springs , etc. Im amazed how far these tiny parts fly lol! Im so ready to complete this build. Thank you all. 

Verify that Cap Jewel is Flat side Down and set correctly (flat) inside the jewel holder. If it's positioned even under slight angle you will have issues with the locking spring.

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Flat side is to face the pivot.

In case pivot is worn and short so PIVOT SHOULDER rubs on the housing, your choices are

-To replace the staff

- Replace the balance complete

- Face the dome side to the pivot so to compensate for short pivot. This is when the first two choice are not available to you, a draw back to this is oil will not stay on top of the dome, so you might give it an epilame treatment.

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1 hour ago, watchweasol said:

The usual convention is the flat side down, although some have been found done side down to compensate for excess end shake   Attached picture, Is this the type.

s-l1600 (3).jpg

Yes this is exactly the one. Thank you very much, I surely appreciate it! 

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1 hour ago, Poljot said:

Verify that Cap Jewel is Flat side Down and set correctly (flat) inside the jewel holder. If it's positioned even under slight angle you will have issues with the locking spring.

Ah this may my issue. I've been having a heck of a time getting this movement in its case and on my wrist. I mean things like lost cap jewels, broken mainstring,  now broken hair spring. I guess it's all in the learning process.  

I forgot to mention, the jewels in question are for the first wheel. I may remove the wheel bridge and inspect the pinion on the first wheel, I can't actually see the pivot on the dial side stick through it respective guide. I can wind my spring, but have to slight nudge the 1st wheel to get it to spin. 

I'm a complete amateur so please excess my lack terminology and written descriptions I may post. But I thank all of you that help and add their knowledge and advice.

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55 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

Flat side is to face the pivot.

In case pivot is worn and short so PIVOT SHOULDER rubs on the housing, your choices are

-To replace the staff

- Replace the balance complete

- Face the dome side to the pivot so to compensate for short pivot. This is when the first two choice are not available to you, a draw back to this is oil will not stay on top of the dome, so you might give it an epilame treatment.

Thank you sir!!! Greatly and humbly appreciate your time and advise. 

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    • Hello and welcome from Leeds. 
    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
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