Jump to content

Smiths Ty

Blacklab

By Blacklab
in Your Watch Collection

 Share

Recommended Posts

Blacklab Distinguished Member

Blacklab

Posted
Posted

Just finished refurbing a tired Smiths TY believed to be from 1965:

 

Before:

post-80-0-30550800-1427146755_thumb.jpg

 

After:

post-80-0-60806800-1427146786_thumb.jpg

 

Case, dial & hands cleaned. Crystal polished. Movement serviced & broken click spring replaced (thanks to John at Obsolete Clock & Watch Parts). New strap. The timegrapher readings were a little variable, however it kept good time all weekend.

 

I am getting a bit of a thing for Smiths (the watches, not the designer-misery band from the 1980's) and have got myself a 1960 Astral to do after the next Seiko.

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Blacklab Distinguished Member

Blacklab

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the kind words, here's the innards before servicing:

post-80-0-71797000-1427149363_thumb.jpg

 

note the broken click. I normally take picks of the breakdown only for reassembly reference, I must start taking pics of the finished movement as well.

 

The only reason I think its a 1965 watch as its partially shown in an ad from that year reproduced in the book 'Smiths Watches' by Barrie Smith.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Blacklab Distinguished Member

Blacklab

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The case was treated to 20 mins in the ultrasonic with crystal in place (glued) using washing up detergent, a bit of scraping with pegwood and a final buff with a Selvyt gold polishing cloth. The crystal was rubbed up with Polywatch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Blacklab Distinguished Member

Blacklab

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for posting the movement BL, it's a lot more basic than I had expected.

 

One up from the LY & 2 up from the RY as used in the Smiths Empire & Ingersol Triumph watches, made by the Anglo-Celtic Watch Co. (later called the Empire factory) in Wales - hence the 'Made in Great Britain' on the dial. The TY was produced in 1,5,7 or 21 jewel variants. The higher quality movements were produced in the Cheltenham factory & normally have 'Made in England' on the dial.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

Thanks again to you all for the compliments. I finally got myself a couple of Smiths Astrals & will post results on a new thread soon.

That I'm looking forward to BL, they're one of my favourite watches! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
daz WRT Addict

daz

Posted
Posted

Great Job Blacklab,

 

I also love Smiths watches and Pocketwatches. I have just got in 2 rather nice Smiths Watches for my collection. Will have to put some pics up tomorrow

 

 

Best Wishes

 

Darren

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 years later...
Ryan New Member

Ryan

Posted
Posted

Hello I have a couple of questions about this watch I also have this watch with the original strap and it’s in working order I’m finding it hard to find information about the watch this is the only thing I have found so far 

my first question is how much is the watch worth 

my second question is is it with getting refurbished 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Pip WRT Addict

Pip

Posted
Posted

That's a great job @Blacklab , really nice end result. Can I ask what technique / kit you used to clean the dial? It looks so much better (partly due to the crystal I expect but even so). Have you had it on a timegrapher? Just wondering what sort of figure you'd expect to get from one of these. My guess would be around +/- 1m a day would be a decent result?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Blacklab Distinguished Member

Blacklab

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ryan - Some Smiths go for silly money unfortunately these don't tend to go for too much, best keep an eye on flebay sold listings to give you an idea of the value. As for refurbishment I think the costs would far outweigh the value, I just do them for fun. 

Pip - thanks for the kind words. The dial was in good condition, just a bit dirty. Sometimes Rodico alone can be used but if particularly bad clean with a sable brush with the dial immersed alternately in lighter fluid then and a weak washing up detergent/water solution and finally rinsed in water then thoroughly dried. I have posted in the past more extreme cleaning methods that have proved successful, but extreme caution needs to be taken & I would not recommend anything other than the most gentle of dusting with a dry sable brush if the watch is of reasonable value. The watch is still in my collection although I haven't worn it for a while, when originally serviced it ran at +/- 20s a day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Geotex
      Any tips to correct a sloppy error?

      By Geotex · Posted

      That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • GuyMontag
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Setting lever spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • RichardHarris123
      Setting lever spring

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Setting lever spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
×
×
  • Create New...