Jump to content

Submerging your Dollar Watch in Naphtha

jdrichard
 Share

Recommended Posts

clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

Posted
Posted

I did a similar clean with an old Westclox alarm clock many many years ago. At the time I was not sure how to disassemble so I just removed the hands and dial and using a stiff brush I washed with paraffin (USA Kerosene) and dried. After a touch of oil it ran a treat. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
KarlvonKoln Distinguished Member

KarlvonKoln

Posted
Posted

I still use Zippo lighter fluid myself.  I open the cleaning jars out-of-doors when I transfer parts from, or to, the tray - due to fumes.  But it works better than most of what I've tried.
That's said, I don't just dunk the whole movement though.  You could, but if you want the solution to reach into every little hole and nook and corner, you must completely strip it.
I did a test a long while back, since I'd heard that naphtha will not harm the shellac that binds jewels to metal parts, that being the prime concern regarding cleaning agents.  So, I took an old anchor lever and dunked it in the Zippo fluid, and left it there about three days or so.  Took it out some time later and checked the pallets.  Tried to wiggle them and pull at them.  They were still firmly affixed.  The old hardened shellac had been unaffected.  Since I knew of nothing else in the watch movements I commonly work on which would be harmed by naphtha, I just keep using that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • GuyMontag
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Setting lever spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • RichardHarris123
      Setting lever spring

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Setting lever spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • JohnR725
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
×
×
  • Create New...