Jump to content

Seiko 6139


Recommended Posts

Hi all experts.

 

i have recently brought a seiko 6139 chronograph from Venezuela which wasn’t working at the time and I had tried to fix the balance but ruined instead. 
 

I have brought a donor movement to replace this whichh the balance on this movement was working fine and spining  freely.

 

now I have reassembled all of the movement and Serviced it. All wheels are working perfectly, the pallet fork is working as it should. However, when I then put the new balance on the movement. It doesn’t spin freely and doesn’t work as should. I have tried the pallet fork in both positions and the balance does nothing but struggle to spin freely. Can anyone advise. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Without the pallet fork does the train run freely when you wind the mainspring?

As you have a spare movement......

Have you swapped the pallet fork and or its bridge? Try swapping the escape wheel as well.

Finally have you oiled the diashock jewel in the balance?

Edited by Melt
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check endshake on staff, if no endshake, both endstones might be pushing on pivots.

You can also loosen the stud screw 2 to 3 turns to release pressure on end stones.

if this did no good and you haven't check both the upper and lower jewel assemblies, you might have broken or very dirty jewel.

Third possibility is if something is rubbing, like hairspring runbbing on balance spokes or the cock, or pivot shoulder rubbing on jewel housing.

Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

Check endshake on staff, if no endshake, both endstones might be pushing on pivots.

You can also loosen the stud screw 2 to 3 turns to release pressure on end stones.

if this did no good and you haven't check both the upper and lower jewel assemblies, you might have broken or very dirty jewel.

Third possibility is if something is rubbing, like hairspring runbbing on balance spokes or the cock, or pivot shoulder rubbing on jewel housing.

Good luck.

Correction: You can also loosen" THE COCK SCREW"   2 to 3  turns to release presuure on endstones. 

I had written "stud " instead of screw. 

Loosen the screw to a point that staff shows a bit of emdshake, nominally .02mm endshake is ideal.

If the issue turned out to be "no end shake" you might want to shim up balance cock or bridge to create some endshake.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What Joe refers to is the balance cock( the part which holds the balance wheel), Just back off the screw a half turn and see if the balance starts up, Check the end shake of the balance wheel if it now runs shim the balance cock with a little aluminium foil (temporary )and re tighten the screw if it still runs  then the problem is lack of end shake. If that is the case the balance jewels/settings may need adjusting.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, RyanGreerMcGilloway said:

I have brought a donor movement to replace this whichh the balance on this movement was working fine and spining  freely.

 

now I have reassembled all of the movement and Serviced it. All wheels are working perfectly, the pallet fork is working as it should. However, when I then put the new balance on the movement. It doesn’t spin freely and doesn’t work as should. I have tried the pallet fork in both positions and the balance does nothing but struggle to spin freely. Can anyone advise. 

I'm having a minor confusion here? So the first part you have a donor movement balances in everything works fine?

Then his service the watch but you have a reference to putting a new balance wheel in? So is this the balance wheel that up above was working fine or is this an entirely new balance wheel?

15 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

Check endshake on staff, if no endshake, both endstones might be pushing on pivots.

If I make the assumption that the donor movement balance wheel was working fine and that's still the same balance wheel after servicing it's not working fine then there's probably still nothing wrong with that balance wheel. But if you find when you're tightening the bridge screw for the balance wheel balance stops spinning it may be the balance  jewels if you took them out. It's usually not clear in the servicing guide but the end  stones have a curved surface and a flat surface. In some watches there actually a different thickness whether there on the one side or the other. you want to make sure that the curved surfaces out because otherwise that is a place you'd lose your end shake.

I am attaching a picture as that's always helpful hopefully.

Seiko balance jewels.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

According to my Seiko parts interchangeability guide, the upper and lower cap and hole jewels are identical. Swapping them should not be an issue. There have been a lot of good suggestions made here. What does the balance do with the pallet fork removed? does it have good motion then? How about with the hairspring removed? It should spin freely. just some things to check. According to my Seiko reference on the 6139A, the chronograph adjustments can be a real beast to get right. make sure the time train is in good condition before starting on that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/17/2020 at 1:08 PM, RyanGreerMcGilloway said:

How can I unscrew this balance staff because I think that might be the issue. Just having the staff pressed down with nor movement in it

Sorry, I meant loosening cock screw, miswrote the word stud instead.

Considering that balance spun freely on other movement, staff pivots are alrignt.

Moving jewels as weasol says is actually prefered to shimming, seiko jewels are easy to move, I can move em without jewelling tool.   ?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all I think I have finally discovered the error with the balance. It wasn’t the balance itself. It seemed to have been the pallet fork. Now, I’ve purchased a NOS pallet fork for the same movement and I’ve come Across another hurdle, whenever I Place the fork in its jewel and the bridge on top and screw into place. The forks snaps as it should a few times and then seems to jam and I can’t figure out why. This is the course to the balance not turning. The wheels work perfectly when the forks not in place as well

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you have enough end shake on fork arbour?   if yes; 

I would keep nudging the fork to snap until it jams there ink mark the escape teeth and the pallet in contact with the teeth.  If it kept jamming on the same tooth, that is where the fault is, most likely a defective tooth, perhaps dirty.

One you have ink marked the tooth, you might put the oscilator-cock assembly back on, shake to run the oscilator at low wind, see where it stops.

Good luck and happy Christmas.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello everybody, sorry for the late reply. Thank you all so much for your help and your tips. I got lucky and found a replacement wheel bridge for cheap which actually ended up being in decent condition. I decided not to do anything about the mainspring barrel pivot since I didn't have the right tools and the barrel didn't have much endshake anyhow. I am happy to report that the watch now runs great, I have regulated it to about +-10/s day which is fine by my standards. The timegrapher result looks decent as well, although beat error is around 0.6ms which could be better I suppose. Amplitude reaches over 230 quite consistently which I'm happy with also. My lighter fluid has also been replaced by balance spring cleaning solution and now the springs don't stick to themselves anymore - who would have thought. I'm super happy with this watch, it might not be worth a whole lot but it's awesome that I could restore it and it makes me wear it with pride. To me it's a genuinely good lucking watch, it'll be my daily driver for a while. Thanks again to everybody for their input! I couldn't have done the repair without your help.   Here are some images for those interested, the bracelet isn't original but I don't really mind:    
    • Balance-hairspring system is oscillator with big Q-factor. When all in the movement is OK, the rate (frequency) is verry close to the own resonant frequency of the balance-hairspring. But in some cases, the movement (with foult) will force the resonator to work on pritty different frequency, sometimes faster, and sometimes slower. When this happens, the amplitude is always weak. So, the first thing to ask is what is the amplitude. If it is more than 180 and the hairspring doesn't touch itself and anything else, then for sure it is 'short'. If the amplitude is weak, then the first thing to do is to understand why and rectify the problem. At this time no point to check timekeeping. But, if one doubts that the hairspring is not correct, then He needs to calcullate the rate of the movement, then to 'vibrate' the balance-hairspring out of the movement and to measure the free oscillations frequency (period) with timer in order to ensure that they comply with the rate. If we have pictures, then it will be easier to tell something about that wheel.
    • So much work has gone into this! Thanks again @Jon. I will go back and check my adjustments from last weekend. A few questions for you, if you don't mind. In the reset position, I can understand the problem if the gap between the hammer and the minute counter heart is too big (slide 77) but what is bad about both hammers being in contact with the cams (slide 76)? I read somewhere that Landeron recommended grease on the runner cam, but the minute counter heart should be dry. Is that so, and why? How many tads in a ligne?
    • Could you glue two pieces together for rigidity and separate after forming? 
×
×
  • Create New...