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Good evening all.  I have always enjoyed owning a few watches but since the pandemic have bought a few more and taken up tinkering with them purely as a hobby. I am slowly getting braver and getting into the mechanism a little at a time. I have managed some very basic work and want to learn more. Hope to be able to share with you and perhaps receive some guidance.

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    • The barrel diameter size is only Important if you're shoving the spring indirectly. If you're going to use a mainspring winder it's not an issue. Then if the spring is just a little bit longer a little bit shorter it's not an issue. If it's dramatically longer yes you can break it and shorten it. Then you can even make a hole in the end of the spring but it can be a pain to do. I would just go with the spring is really close and see if it works with the end that it has.
    • Thanks again, Chris!! I read through the manual as you suggested and learned quite a bit (go figure!!). To answer your questions: 1) Yes, my dryer fan runs perfectly. 2) I don't have a way to measure the basket rotational speed, but the spin-off speed seems to be faster than the drying speed .... or about the same. The manual specifically lists L&R Extra Fine Watch Cleaning Solution and L&R #3 Watch Rinsing Solution as the recommended solutions.  I'll have to research the difference between the Extra Fine Watch Cleaning Solution and #111 but since you use #111, that's what I'll use, too.  It seems I have no worries about the #3 catching fire during drying. How high do you fill your jars?  The manual says, "to the middle of the L&R on the jar". When you clean watch parts, do you use the "Watch Basket" (smaller one) or the "Clock Basket" (larger one)? If I'm reading the manual correctly, I should set the rheostat with the Clock Basket installed and the High-Low switch on High.  Then, set the adjustable resistor slider (Purple Wire) with the Watch Basket installed and the High-Low switch on Low.  Finally, set the drying speed with the other adjustable resistor slider (Orange Wire). I think I'll do all my experimentation and adjustments with isopropyl alcohol.  That's a lot cheaper than the L&R solutions. Thanks again for helping and sharing your experience.  I really appreciate it!!  Woody
    • The Cousins spring will come with a "tongue end", which, if you have a hook in the barrel that worked with a hole end before will work A-OK with the tongue end. Length wise, there's a lot of leeway with it until you get to really small stuff (try fitting a spring with 20mm extra length in a JLC 852 caliber with a 5mm barrel inner diameter haha). The Cousins spring will work fine. Additionally, the way the fusee works you don't actually use the whole length or "number of turns of wind" that the barrel can produce. It will make about  6 turns of wind, and the fusee will use about 4 to 5 of that.
    • Thanks.  Only 2 options come up: 2.50 x 0.20 x 17 x 580 or 2.50 x 0.20 x 15.5 x  480 The original spring was: 2.50 x 0.20 x 17 x 410 Not sure where to go from here, my instinct is to go for the 15.5 x 480 as the spring is still longer than the original, even though it is for a smaller barrel??  
    • There are a few bad teeth on that wheel, that is due to the spring breaking. Lucky the chain didn't snap. You might be lucky with ebay. 
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