Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I'm Moving to a different building at the same complex and will have a nice room next to my office just for watch repair.  Their is a concrete floor now.  I plan to caulk between the floor and walls and paint the floor.  Question is do I paint it white or another color for easy finding of parts?  Any other advice before moving in?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, markr said:

Question is do I paint it white or another color for easy finding of parts?  Any other advice before moving in?

Get into a habit of using Rodico or two sets of tweezers, or a pair of tweezers and a peg-wood stick to hold the part in place while removing or installing it. Sometimes you can use a small piece of plastic wrap on top of the movement during disassembly of certain components. It's clear plastic - you can see things and the parts are not going to fly across the room.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/27/2020 at 9:56 PM, markr said:

 Their is a concrete floor now.  I plan to caulk between the floor and walls and paint the floor. 

I would not like concrete floor in a rough mechanical shop, and it would drive me crazy for a watchmaking or any other precision shop. I do not know what kind of climate you have but just an average winter would make expensive and difficult to geet a comfortable temperature to work in. Anything else from the cheapest wood flooring to linoleoum or tiles would be better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that a "brown" color was suggested in the book I'm reading.

So, perhaps cork? It's somewhat softer; low bounce for parts, and provides that contrast for shiny parts. But you can still roll an office chair on it.

Or maybe have the floor re-poured like a shower floor, with a big magnet at the low spot?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
    • Before putting it back in the case I would fit the hands and use a pin vice on the stem to make sure the hands were in line. 
×
×
  • Create New...