Jump to content

My first watch clean & rebuild


Recommended Posts

I thought I'd share my first ever mostly successful watch clean & rebuild. Not without it's moments, I have a healthy respect for the springs now having managing to lose then find the click spring twice! I also must have managed to bend the post to which the second hand attaches, perhaps when I removed it. Is there a way a complete amateur could fix this without destroying the watch? I went gentle on cleaning the face and it retains its patina of whats likely a bit of dampness from long ago. Sadly I can't wear it currently as the crystal keeps popping off.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks that I could use to keep the crystal on? It's set in a plastic ring.

Lastly does anyone know the history of "Relide" watches? I've never heard of them until now.

 

relide1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It has a nice, classic look to it, but I can't say I've heard of Relide before now.

As to springs going airborn and parts leaping into the unknown, it happens sometimes. I've been known to just grab the Dust Buster hand vacuum and put a piece of nylon pantie hose over the inlet, and hope for fhe best.

As to your loose crystal, sometimes they just aren't pressed all the way in.  But if you're sure that it is, there is this stuff called "G-S Hypo Cement".  You'd only need a tiny amount.  But first, I assume the movement loads through the back?

As to the bent second hand pivot...um...darn...bad juju there.  If it were me, I'd load the wheel in my Jacot tool and prop the bent end in the right-sized groove of one of the runners, and very, very, VERY gently and slowly use the polished side of a small screwdriver or tool to carefully straighten it.  I'd carefully heat it a bit as I go too.  But for all that, it could still break.  You may get lucky; you may not.

You could always make do without a second hand until you happen upon a duplicate donor movement.  That may be the easiest (abeit slowest) and best solution.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does it say 21 Jewels on the dial? What is the diameter of the movement?

Also, my guess is that the Seconds Hand Pivot was bent when you placed the movement upside down (without the Dial installed). That's why i never use such pad as shown on your photo. Get yourself Bergeon 4040 movement holder and never place a watch face down with the dial being removed.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks both for your comments and advice. 

KarlvonKoln, I'll hunt down a tube of that glue, it may help, certainly worth a go. The movement loads in from the front. The crystal is mounted in a thin plastic ring, which is pressed on. When you think it's all clipped in place it then pops itself off when it feels like it. I'll bear the vacuum trick in mind too.

I'm just starting out and I don't have any of that sort kit you have, the search is already on for a donor....

Poljot, I've gone over my photos again and under the balance it is marked with looks like a "P" in a shield with the number "320". Yes it does say "21 jewels" on the face and on the movement. Do you know if this is a commonly found movement with available spares?

You've also had me thinking, as to how the seconds hand pivot got bent and I think you're probably right. A beginners mistake, but something to learn by for sure. As they say you learn by your mistakes. I do have a movement holder, one of those cheap ones from the far east, it functions. However it does drive me nuts sometimes as it won't sit level on the table. I'll add a Bergeon 4040 to my Christmas list.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, Bearman said:

Poljot, I've gone over my photos again and under the balance it is marked with looks like a "P" in a shield with the number "320". Yes it does say "21 jewels" on the face and on the movement. Do you know if this is a commonly found movement with available spares?

You've also had me thinking, as to how the seconds hand pivot got bent and I think you're probably right. A beginners mistake, but something to learn by for sure. As they say you learn by your mistakes. I do have a movement holder, one of those cheap ones from the far east, it functions. However it does drive me nuts sometimes as it won't sit level on the table. I'll add a Bergeon 4040 to my Christmas list.

 

 

It could be Peseux 320 movement inside. You can upload one photo if you would like.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Bearman said:

I'm just starting out and I don't have any of that sort kit you have, the search is already on for a donor....

Poljot, I've gone over my photos again and under the balance it is marked with looks like a "P" in a shield with the number "320". Yes it does say "21 jewels" on the face and on the movement. Do you know if this is a commonly found movement with available spares?

If your movement is indeed Peseux 320, then you've got several options and will have to take some accurate measurement before ordering your part(-s):

https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/filter/peseux-movement-parts

 

Does this movement below look similar to yours?

https://www.catawiki.com/l/24286723-accurist-swiss-made-peseux-320-21-jewels-33-mm-gold-plated-g10-men-1960-1969

Edited by Poljot
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've dug through my photos. Hopefully you can make out the marks?

 Thanks for the links.

It does look very similar, less the branding and colour. Perhaps "Relide" had some sort of connection to "Accurist" the styling cues of the face are in the same vein. The date in the link fits too there are two service marks scratched inside the back which suggest 1972, so many thanks for that.

 

 

P320.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Bearman said:

I've dug through my photos. Hopefully you can make out the marks?

 Thanks for the links.

It does look very similar, less the branding and colour. Perhaps "Relide" had some sort of connection to "Accurist" the styling cues of the face are in the same vein. The date in the link fits too there are two service marks scratched inside the back which suggest 1972, so many thanks for that.

I believe this is your movement:

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Peseux_320

Hands
1.30 x 0.80 / 0.21mm

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Poljot, thanks for another useful link in looks like an absolute mine of info. Yes I would certainly agree with you it's a Peseux 320. I do have another question. What does "Hands" refer to? Is it the dimensions of the pivot that the second hand fit to? Thanks again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Bearman said:

Poljot, thanks for another useful link in looks like an absolute mine of info. Yes I would certainly agree with you it's a Peseux 320. I do have another question. What does "Hands" refer to? Is it the dimensions of the pivot that the second hand fit to? Thanks again

Glad to help!

Your guess is absolutely correct: Hour, Minute & Seconds Hand pivot hole diameter.

Here is just an example how you select correct hands for your movement or even for the actual Watch Case ID:

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/baton-pairs-straight

As you can see, in addition to hole diameter you will need to know the Length of each hand.

Edited by Poljot
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Bearman said:

Slowly beginning to get the hang of this. Quite pleased my guess was along the right lines, without any prior knowledge. I've learnt something, which can't be a bad thing. Another valuable resource for me browse. Cheers

https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/hands-watch

Probably this link gives you even more info. You can also download Parts List for your movement, if it is available using the same website, but "document search" page:

https://www.cousinsuk.com/document

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

By way of an update, I managed to find a donor movement on that well known auction site. A Peseux 320, with Accurist branding. It had the key part I needed plus it provided another movement for me to practice on, without being too nervous about mangling something else.

So the second hand is proudly back where it belongs and ticking away nicely. Truly an achievement, for me anyway with my limited skills.

Thanks again Poljot, your help's encouraged me on.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you ever seen grease spread?  I use Molykote DX on the keyless, cannon pinion, etc and cannot imagine it spreading. Similarly, HP1300 should not be a problem, as long as you don't splash too much about.  9010 does like to travel though. I've recently re-serviced a couple of my watches I first serviced about 5 years ago. I was a bit too liberal with the oil and grease back then, but it hasn't spread everywhere. I only epilame on balance cap stones, escape wheel and pallet stones (and auto wheels if they need it).   If you use it all over, the oil might bead-up and travel even further - think of using RainX on your car windows.
    • Polish it where the old part cracked as well. Get rid of the stress-raisers.
    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...