Jump to content

Balance tack?


KarlvonKoln

Recommended Posts

On 11/27/2020 at 1:38 PM, jdrichard said:

"I always fear the balance cock falling off the movement on installation and the balance staying in the movement resulting in the hairspring getting really stretched. "

That is my nightmare, unfortunately I have witnessed it, not even once and I have not serviced many watches only a handful. ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made some parts for this balance tool i Solidworks and 3D print out the parts in PLA                                             a very strong plastic, even case openersw  resist the forces, otherwise it is good to make different movements holders.  

Balance arm1.png

IMG_20201130_162159.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This tool was sold as "tool for filing balance screws".

Wkz_Unruhschr1.jpg.cb8291c6f8812845c75849e9c568fcd9.jpg

Hence the "unknown" pin. Funny that the tool is still made with that pin without knowing its reason ?.

Wkz_Unruhschrauben.jpg.03652683cebf422a44294ad8ee12a2b2.jpg

I had searched some time for # 30673 until I found mine.
I use it rarely but I am happy I have it when I need it.

Frank

Edited by praezis
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm trying to figure out if I can make one with just hand tools i.e. hand held drill, files, etc.

I could use solder (and or pins) to fix the back plate,  solder the legs,  and buy a small brass hinge, again soldered on.

The holes for the pin which holds the balance cock don't need to be absolutely vertical.  I can tap them and use screws, but somehow have to turn the end of the screws down to fit the hole in the balance cock.

..... or I could buy a 3D printer ? 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is really nice! 

Can 2-d drawings be made from the solidworks model? If so, I can quote having these made. I certainly want one, and the more we do, the less per they will be.

Aluminum will probably be the least expensive, but brass is what I would like to use. Perhaps chromium plating after polish for that over the top look (although we might want to lightly sand blast the top plate so it does not glare at us when working).

Anyone interested?

PS I think the pin sticking out is perhaps a guide for the file?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's awesome Frank, I've never seen one in a catalog. Since it was a standard student project I always thought they were simply never commercially sold. A Japanese friend here has the 30673 and really likes it, I'm surprised you don't use yours more.

 

Ennaj12, that looks great! I should point out that the semi-circle that presses on the balance rim is pivoted, so that it always presses evenly on both side. Not strictly necessary but a nice detail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

That's awesome Frank, I've never seen one in a catalog

An old Witschi catalog from supposed early 50s. It has many funny timing machines from the era. Catched it years ago on the Chaux-de-Fonds museum fair.

Frank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, ennaj12 said:

Easy to get 2D drawings from model in Solidworks, it is in that program.

I can made them for you.

That would be great. Then I can refine them, with the details we know, and go out for quote. I'll get it quoted in Aluminum (6061) and brass. The big cost will be the labor, so I don't think it will be much different, but it's always nice to have options.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you very much!

I can't today (parts to inspect) but I'll work up some refined drawings and go out for quote.

Out of curiosity, is anyone else interested in one of these? Making three will be expensive per piece, but price will drop with quantity.

Tolerance will be somewhat loose, so that helps control cost as well. Dies and movement holders have tighter tolerance, so higher cost despite their relative simplicity.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Tudor said:

Thank you very much!

I can't today (parts to inspect) but I'll work up some refined drawings and go out for quote.

Out of curiosity, is anyone else interested in one of these? Making three will be expensive per piece, but price will drop with quantity.

Tolerance will be somewhat loose, so that helps control cost as well. Dies and movement holders have tighter tolerance, so higher cost despite their relative simplicity.

I would be interested:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, I spend some time today to make a brass balance tack for holding the balance without tension on the hairspring:

1) cut a tack on a lathe

2) tap it with 8-32

3) cut a sheet of brass square

4) tap the hole 8-32

5) cut 2 different sizes slots for the rolled table to fall through

6) screw in the Tack

7) buff etc

mistakes: tack at small angle, need to tap straighter, need small legs (4 blobs of Rodico being used.), lower the balance cock by tapering further down.

 

 

B74C7123-217A-4852-B4F5-5482DE8B555D.jpeg

C9CF1E11-9C8B-457E-A114-DC1F8BE4D896.jpeg

1F1CC03E-E897-43DC-8B0E-D68E9378517B.jpeg

DBC4B7EB-173D-4110-BB7C-047C8C2D16EF.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, I spend some time today to make a brass balance tack for holding the balance without tension on the hairspring:

1) cut a tack on a lathe

2) tap it with 8-32

3) cut a sheet of brass square

4) tap the hole 8-32

5) cut 2 different sizes slots for the rolled table to fall through

6) screw in the Tack

7) buff etc

mistakes: tack at small angle, need to tap straighter, need small legs (4 blobs of Rodico being used.), lower the balance cock by tapering further down.

3E637321-FCC2-46CB-A123-36888CE4EDF1.jpeg

49C4CDA7-BFEE-47FD-827E-3BEAEA54A0BF.jpeg

617BBBEB-B904-444A-B0B3-24B317489DA7.jpeg

977C6624-B49A-4AFC-9B08-BA5553046323.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Tudor said:

Looks good so far!

Tap the four corners 4-40 and put in four button head cap screws for feet. 

Solved the leg issue. Former and glued on a piece of Leatherette that not only provides cushion for the lower pivot, but raises the balance so that legs are not required and there is less tension of the Hairspring:) Done!

7404358D-2535-4300-8E77-5B9ABF968B67.jpeg

20C3F9EC-6BCC-4010-AF3E-AB92353E35A8.jpeg

814340A8-410E-4DB0-AD26-68048F49B91C.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Showing state of hairspring on receipt, backplate & 'dished' wheel. 
    • I would harden and temper (to a light blue). It's so easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes. A search on ebay UK for "spring steel strip cs" finds plenty available in small quantites and thicknesses from 0.1mm up.  But the question is ( @nickelsilver) which "CS" number is best for watch parts ?  Also, from one of the ads : "CARBON SPRING STEEL. SIZE IS METRIC 15.00mm X 0.10mm X 304 MM  CS100 FINISH BRIGHT . HARDENED AND TEMPERD TO 480-530VPN" I've no idea about 480-530VPN. Does that mean it needs annealing before working?       Have you seen this video, he shows how to determine where the indents go ?  
    • Here is the insert ring for rectangular or elliptical movements: Note that the length is the side with the stem cut out on the spreadsheet (in the picture below this is 15.15: Here is the fake pdf file, again you need to convert to .zip after download to access the FreeCAD and 3mf files. Rectangular insert disc.pdf    
    • as you took the mainspring out what did it look like? It's amazing how much amplitude you can get if the mainspring actually has the proper shape. last week I was doing a 12 size Hamilton and was very much surprised with the beautiful back curvature the mainspring had. Then the watch had a really nice amplitude the group would be so proud it was 350 until I dropped the lift angle down to 38 that drop the amplitude quite a bit below 300. then with the beautiful back curve it still had really nice amplitude the next day. I really wish all my mainspring's look like this as the watch had beautiful amplitude the next day. So many of the aftermarket pocketwatch Springs I see now do not have anything resembling a back curve may be a slight curve and that's about all. They still work but they just don't work as nice as a properly made spring. then Omega as all sorts of nifty technical documentation unfortunately every single corner is watermarked with where it came from who downloaded it etc. very paranoid company. On the other hand I will snip out images like from the document on recycling a mainspring barrel. for instance here's the section on what your mainspring should look like. water damaged a lot of times means rust was there rust on this watch?
×
×
  • Create New...