Jump to content

Brockbank & Atkins With Platform Escapement


rodabod

Recommended Posts

Just about to clean this one, so thought I’d share some photos. 
 

This maker made some ship’s clocks but also retailed similarly built clocks for the domestic market. The finer examples had a fusee and compensated balance. This one omits the fusee for an intermediate wheel and has a plain balance. However, it’s still quite nice in my opinion. 
 

 

879B5441-F304-49CC-8B24-E59EAC68798D.jpeg

6B914C84-7F4F-4252-B17A-2E324BB34555.jpeg

53807565-C051-4F62-BC10-728D80E3C759.jpeg

C1933FDB-5F4B-4CAF-9CAF-D6E472186DBB.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, that clock exhibits some seriously robust and rugged construction.  It must really weigh something.  Everything looks so precise.  I am not often privileged to see this level of quality in most modern clocks I've opened or worked on (which admittedly is not many; clocks are not my forte).  I enjoy seeing craftsmanship like this. Thanks for the pics.  

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a Brockbank and Atkins bulk head clock a fusee with maintaning power, large temperature compensated balance platform the plates are the same shape, a very heavy built movement. Does it have the original key, movement, dial and key numbers should all match 12617 is the number of my clock which I would think dates it to about 1880's. Does this have a stand they often have a stand that makes them look something like a napoleon hat clock when put together. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, wls1971 said:

I have a Brockbank and Atkins bulk head clock a fusee with maintaning power, large temperature compensated balance platform the plates are the same shape, a very heavy built movement. Does it have the original key, movement, dial and key numbers should all match 12617 is the number of my clock which I would think dates it to about 1880's. Does this have a stand they often have a stand that makes them look something like a napoleon hat clock when put together. 

Thanks for the info. It does have an original key, albeit it’s a number of digits off the number on the dial. Not sure how, unless it was owned alongside others and mixed up. The movement and dial numbers match, and it does also have the wooden stand which makes it look a bit like a Napoleon Hat. I’m glad you mentioned the stand as I thought it was aftermarket and might have binned it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve had a look at the pallet jewels under a microscope which look good. Escape wheel also looks fine as far as I can see. 

The only issue I can see is that the original garnet lower cap jewel for the balance has a slight amount of pivot wear. If you look at the photo below, you can see the wear which is around 0.1mm wide. I’m tempted to leave it as-is since the cap jewel is a really thick slice of garnet and I can’t imagine managing to find an original. I also don’t really want to spoil the originality. 
 

If the cap jewel does noticeably affect the performance then I think I will possibly either try an additional thin ruby cap jewel on top of the original chaton, or I could turn a new chaton with a ruby jewel. Both options would be reversible. 
 

 

2FD388F9-625E-4C1B-8674-895488ACEFB8.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve polished the agate jewelled chatons on glass with diamond paste. Removed around 5/100mm from the surface. 
 

Agate doesn’t seem to polish very well to me. It’s a bit crumbly. However, they are now free of the signs of pivot wear. 
 

I’ve decided to oil all of the pivots and cap jewels with HP1300, so will see how that works out. I think the balance is too heavy in weight to use a lighter oil. 

324AA1A9-7136-417A-B05C-5E9763BF720B.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The next issue which I have, which was possibly predictable is excess end-shake on the balance which I believe is causing the balance spokes rub slightly. I was hoping the lower chaton would seat itself with the same distance from the jewel hole, but evidently not. This may be since the chaton is cone-shaped, so it’s not sitting any closer than prior to being polished. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

So, I used my jewelling set to correct the balance end-shake by increasing the depth of the chaton which carries the lower cap jewel.

I also noticed that the same needed to be done for the escape wheel’s lower cap jewel as the polishing of the stone had caused the alignment of the pallet stones and escape wheel teeth to shift slightly. 

Finally, I rounded the lower balance pivot and burnished it. I’ve added some photos below to show the stages:

- Original pivot with scoring and flattened end. 

- Pivot after polishing to a round profile. I used a soft polisher to do this to avoid leaving any abrasive embedded in the pivot. 

- Pivot after burnishing with a Bergeon “pivot rounding” burnisher which works surprisingly well. 

The balance swings for a few minutes under its just own momentum now, so negligible friction as far as I can tell. I’m getting around 225 degrees amplitude which I reckon is probably reasonably for an English lever escapement, but I’d be interested to read about what might be typical for this type and age. 
 

 

0B94896C-DB73-4480-83CC-9770476B72C9.jpeg

B3407816-7F87-4675-82E7-0D8B4B172C52.jpeg

40891DA3-744E-4294-AF90-51BC0DB072A4.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Got another one today! It took 10 weeks, but finally arrived. Fairly complete but I added the pivot guage. The burnisher and bow came with the tool. The case is a bit rough and the tool pretty dirty, but trying to decide how much I want to restore.
    • OK, so long story short, I'm working my way through Mark's courses using a "Sea-gul ST36" (or ST3600 from some vendors) AKA an ETA 6497 clone. as a practice piece.  I've had it fully appart and cleaned it, and have had it fully back together an "running", but only briefly as my oil hadn't arrived at the time.  In the course of that work, I saw no markings on the movement that would tell me if it was a true Sea-gul or just a clone of their clone of the original ETA movement. Well, fast forward to this weekend, when my oils arrived in my mailbox and I sat down to try my hand at oiling.  Everything was going swimmingly until I got to the shock setting on the top of the balance cock.  I was able to open the lyre spring without issue, but in attempting to swing the open to access the cap jewel and chaton, I apparently accidentally pressed the launch button as I sent the lyre spring into low earth orbit.  Like most things that make into such orbits it came back down at a place not too far from where it started, but of course that also means that it is no longer in the setting. So my task is now to get said spring back into setting.  What I have read so far tells me that I seem to have two options: Another thread here seems to indicate that the spring came out without taking the balance cock apart, therefore it should go back without the need for that procedure.  That seems a bit pie in the sky for me, but the posts in said thread also gave some high level information about how to get the spring back in (putting it at an angle to the channel cut in the cock and canted so that the tabs fit in the slots, followed by some "wiggling" to get it turned around the right direction.)  I've tried this a couple of times, which have lead to more trips to low earth orbit, but with successful recovery of the orbital vehicle after each trip.  This thread also suggests that what I did to cause the initial launch was to push the spring "back" with more pressure on one side than the other, which put it under tension and caused it to deform out the slot either on one side or at the end (where there is apparently no "back stop".) The other option appears to be varying degrees of disassembly of the balance cock.  Some things I've read suggest that the whole shock setting needs to come out, while other threads here suggest that I only need to remove the regulator arm and the arm carrying the balance stud.  After the last trip the spring made, this is seeming like a better option, but I'm super short on details on how to do what needs to be done.  if I am following correctly: I need to loose the balance spring stud screw so the stud is not held in the arm. I need to somehow disengage the balance spring from the regulator (all the regulators I've seen in videos look nothing like what I see on the balance cock I have.)  What I've seen on the interwebs is a couple of "pins" that the spring passes through.  What I see on my assembly is something that looks more like a single pin with a "V" shaped notch cut in the bottom of it.  The spring is secured in that notch with something that I guessed was glue, Posts here suggest that on some of these movements glue is in fact used.  So I'm trying to figure out how to tell, how to soften dissolve it (I'm guessing IPA or acetone) and how to put it back when I'm done (superglue?  UV glue?) With the spring detached from the cock, I've read that the regulator and stud carrier are basically glorified C clamps around the shock setting and that one removes them by slipping a razor blade under one side of each and prizing them up.  I assume that they go back in the reverse manner like another C clamp, but that again is only a guess.  The place I got this information from seemed to leave that bit out. Once I have one or both arms off the shock setting the above mentioned post seemed to indicate that I could just slide the spring back in the slot, though again, I'm interpolating between the lines I read.  The alternative that I've seen demonstrated on high end movements on Youtube is to remove the entire shock setting and to replace the spring from "underneath" rotating the setting so that spring basically falls into place. I'm not anxious to try this method, as I don't have a jeweling tool to put the shock setting back into place.  That not to mention that the professional watch maker who did the demonstration described "fiddly work." So at the end of the day I'm looking for a little guidance on which pathway to follow, or if I've missed something obvious, a new direction to follow.  If this is a repair that just need to wait until my skills improve I'm totally good with that, I can get another of these movements in relatively short order, I just don't want to treat this one as disposable, and I do want to make an honest effort at fixing it and learning from this experience. Thank you in advance for reading my ramblings and for any suggestions that you might have!
    • All the best, family always comes first, and I believe you have made the right call that you mother deserves your full attention. However, when you need a little outside distraction the guys here will always be available for some banter or a heated discussion on lubrication 🤣.
    • Wire for what? if it's steel then only certain types of steel can be hardened ie high carbon steels: "Mild steel doesn't harden very well. It doesn't have enough carbon. Get something like O1, silver steel or if you want to go full watchmaker, then Sandvik 20AP". Source
    • I'm wondering if there's any specific type of wire I should get for hardening? I would assume it doesn't matter as long as the wire doesn't melt before it is at temp. 
×
×
  • Create New...