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Chronotachymetre Servicing


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I found a rather elegant chronograph pocket watch on the bay recently. It was listed as non-running so I took a punt on it. Not cheap, but I liked the dial. The watch wouldn't run if the chrono was engaged, and would barely run without it. It's a French watch made by LIP.

 

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Popped the moment out of the case to have a look. It's very pretty in there...

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Time to strip it down. Took many photos so I could put it back together in the right sequence. Here's a bird's eye view of the chronograph works

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Removed the operating lever, pillar wheel, transmission wheel and various springs

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Removed the chronograph bridge:

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And the movement's now just a plain ol' pocketwatch movement:

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Time to see what's wrong with the movement itself:

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...and found the culprit, or at least a suspect! Cracked 3rd wheel jewel:

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Spent a quiet Sunday morning sifting through my box of random jewels until I found one with the right diameter for the pivot:

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Reamed a wider hole and fitted the new jewel. I was pleased the colour matched the old one:

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Now I can put the movement back together. With the new jewel and a lot of cleaning the watch works extremely well - one or two seconds fast and only a little beat error which I'm going to ignore. Putting the chrono works back together was relatively straightforward - just a matter of lubrication and adjusting the eccentrics so that the depthing was correct:

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Time to fit the hands. The second hand for the chrono wasn't tight enough on the arbor, so every time you re-set to 0 the hand would spin! Tightened it with a cannon pinion tightener - there must be a better way!

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Movement goes back in the case:

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And another fine watch for my collection of slightly-battered-but-working-well watches. This was the first chronograph I've done, so I'm extremely pleased that it's working nicely. Learned a lot in the process. One of the things I learned was not to use Naptha on dials. The astute observer will notice that the word LIP has vanished from the dial. While I feel extremely guilty for having done this to a 100-year old watch, I'm secretly delighted - the first thing my wife said when the watch arrived in the post was "lovely dial, pity it says LIP on it...", and I agreed.

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Thanks for watching. 

 

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Time to fit the hands. The second hand for the chrono wasn't tight enough on the arbor, so every time you re-set to 0 the hand would spin! Tightened it with a cannon pinion tightener - there must be a better way!

I do it this way - it often works.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Brilliant job - well done. And I really love that watch - it's a cracker.

 

Regarding the hands, I can never be bothered with doing it with a lathe collet - the pin vice is always to hand and a lot less messing around.

But you might argue that a lathe collet would compress more evenly across the length of the tube than a pin vice.

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Brilliant job - well done. And I really love that watch - it's a cracker.

 

Regarding the hands, I can never be bothered with doing it with a lathe collet - the pin vice is always to hand and a lot less messing around.

But you might argue that a lathe collet would compress more evenly across the length of the tube than a pin vice.

 

Here is yet another way of tightening a second hand that is only a little loose - with digital output!

Somewhat like canon pinion tightening.

 

post-374-0-53516800-1429441825_thumb.jpg

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I like your thinking Colin!

Another great use for digital calipers is removing splinters from your skin. They grip a lot better than tweezers and even let you know what size the skelf is! :)

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Both new uses of caliper noted for further use! I can combine them when a splinter gets in a watch's hand... aaaah! Just me and one of those moments!  :)

 

Great thinking guys!

 

@Colin: Good to see you around, Colin and as always with great input! Cheers!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

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Geo that last suggestion is hilarious. I just had an image of me trying to pull out splinter from my foot with a digital caliper--

JC

I wasn't joking Joe, they are brilliant for that. Working in engineering I was forever getting tiny slithers of metal in my fingers, and the callipers always worked when tweezers failed!
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Excellent wakthrough and job!!!

Congratulations!!!

Another way to evenly tighten a hand tube, is by using the appropriate size of a punch stake in your staking set. Just find the one that nearly fits the tube diameter and push the punch lightly onto the hand (no hammer needed just a finger push from the top).

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    • That's very interesting information. I haven't tried to see if my bombé jewel holes have olive holes but I think I should be able to tell on the larger jewels at least. See if I get a chance to have a look later today. This little story was very comforting to read for a "bungler" like myself. That success isn't a given even for a pro. Thanks for sharing!
    • I forgot that I said I would do that. Will take some tomorrow and post them up post haste.
    • I've seen some really nice early 20th century pieces where all the jewels, including center wheel, were convex. Definitely to reduce friction. It can be quite hard to tell if a jewel has olive holes, especially on small sizes, but that again reduces friction- as well as accommodates small misalignments better. Why they aren't used more often? I imagine it was found that at a certain point in the train the actual advantage became negligible, and the added cost on high production movements is why it's not seen on those, just higher-end pieces.   I did an experiment on a little 5x7"' AS 1012 a few years back. These things run OK sometimes, but often are absolute dogs. And AS made gajillions of them. I had a NOS novelty watch in for a service, ran OK flat, massive drop in amplitude vertical. Made like 3 staffs for it trying different pivot sizes, no change. Tried high quality (not Seitz) convex/olive jewels, no change- the original were flat, but could have been olive hole. Same for the pallet fork, then escape wheel, no change. Probably had 20 hours in the watch, new staff and new hole jewels through the escape wheel, no difference in running. Just a dog of a movement. But if I were making a watch I would use them, just because.
    • When Nicklesilver mentioned the use of them on non coned pivots on older high end watches closer to the escapement.  That suggested to me  probably fourth wheels and possibly third wheels. The square shoulder rotatating on the much smaller surface area of a dome as opposed to a flat jewel surface. I'm curious as to why they are not used predominantly?
    • That's what I thought, but as I said, it makes sense. See if any of our pros will have something to add.
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