Jump to content

Vintage Watches

jdrichard
 Share

Recommended Posts

Marc Distinguished Member

Marc

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

A good grade unitas 6497, finally rebadged as ETA.

Definitely not a UT6497, the train layout is completely wrong for a stem at 12 and a sub-seconds at 6.

Not a UT6498 either as although the bridge shapes are very close, the layout of the Crown wheel, ratchet wheel, and the click is wrong. I suspect that it's not big enough for either of these calibers too as they are 16.5'''.

I think it is UT though, possibly a 196, 197, 198, or 199, which are either 10.5''' or 11.5'''.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, Marc said:

Definitely not a UT6497, the train layout is completely wrong for a stem at 12 and a sub-seconds at 6.

Not a UT6498 either as although the bridge shapes are very close, the layout of the Crown wheel, ratchet wheel, and the click is wrong. I suspect that it's not big enough for either of these calibers too as they are 16.5'''.

I think it is UT though, possibly a 196, 197, 198, or 199, which are either 10.5''' or 11.5'''.

I think you are roght, Unitas 6431 is more like it, I didn't check this on Dr ranfft site and am not sure if they are of one family generation, not that prices are any different.

The one out of solar says 2adjut, better grade than unadjusted, so I stick with the price though JDR just wants an idea to decide how much to spend on em.

Gear bridge on the last one posted( out of winsor) seem scavanged off of a donor, a turn off by itself. wouldn,t spend much on it.

 The solar looks worth a decent service to me anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, Nucejoe said:

I think you are roght, Unitas 6431 is more like it, I didn't check this on Dr ranfft site and am not sure if they are of one family generation, not that prices are any different.

The one out of solar says 2adjut, better grade than unadjusted, so I stick with the price though JDR just wants an idea to decide how much to spend on em.

Gear bridge on the last one posted( out of winsor) seem scavanged off of a donor, a turn off by itself. wouldn,t spend much on it.

 The solar looks worth a decent service to me anyway.

Marc and Nucejoe.  Big thanks for this track down and I will spend more time with the SOLAR watch, starting with a hand cleaning of the case (or ultrasonic). Need to see if I can recondition the crystal as well.  And then there is that old strap.  Have never done any leather strap work but would love to get is to shine again.

But this morning is Rolex Oyster Everest Precision (1957) review and perhaps start the disassembly with very shaky hands:) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Marc said:

Not a 6431 either, check the layout of the crown wheel, ratchet wheel , and click.

Oh shoot, lots of variants were made, I hope its a Unitas at least. 

Jd always works on ole good grades and making a staff  again ALWAYS is a pre-requisit.

Regards

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

I think you are roght, Unitas 6431 is more like it, I didn't check this on Dr ranfft site and am not sure if they are of one family generation, not that prices are any different.

The one out of solar says 2adjut, better grade than unadjusted, so I stick with the price though JDR just wants an idea to decide how much to spend on em.

Gear bridge on the last one posted( out of winsor) seem scavanged off of a donor, a turn off by itself. wouldn,t spend much on it.

 The solar looks worth a decent service to me anyway.

That winsor can be a fhf30 variant. Rolex 59CS is based on fhf30-1. worth furthure search, the movement itself isn't worth much, but some of its parts might be rare.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

Hi Jd,  So far as I can tell the windsor movement looks fhf30, I am not sure what parts interchange with fhf30-1= Rolex59CS.

Comparing the keyless helps, set spring on a Rolex fhf30-1 is always broke. I think windsor can worth more as a donor to a Rolex and hardly worthy of fixing as a windsor watch, bridge layout usually wont help much with interchangability not as much as a datasheet anyway.

There is always the question of high precision Rolex gears as well.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, jdrichard said:

The marking is UT and 199. So not sure this is a 6497. It has cap jewels on the 3rd, 4th, and the Escapement.

 

On 11/22/2020 at 6:09 PM, Marc said:

I think it is UT though, possibly a 196, 197, 198, or 199, which are either 10.5''' or 11.5'''.

So its back to what Marc was saying all along.

Dr ranffts does list UT199 though shows a different bridge layout.

Says adjusted in 3 positions so you might regain the precision with a good polish of pivots and poise,  then there is the question of hairspring originality/quality .. etc. Though the dollar value might not justify all the work to regain the precision.

I have got a thing for these generations of Unita movements and  personally wouldn't base my decision on dollar worth, but then this was your question from the first.

Good luck and a very happy Chirstmas to you and your familty.

Regs Joe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 12/27/2020 at 8:55 PM, Nucejoe said:

 

So its back to what Marc was saying all along.

Dr ranffts does list UT199 though shows a different bridge layout.

Says adjusted in 3 positions so you might regain the precision with a good polish of pivots and poise,  then there is the question of hairspring originality/quality .. etc. Though the dollar value might not justify all the work to regain the precision.

I have got a thing for these generations of Unita movements and  personally wouldn't base my decision on dollar worth, but then this was your question from the first.

Good luck and a very happy Chirstmas to you and your familty.

Regs Joe.

I now need a 3rd wheel as the pivot is broken.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • oldhippy
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By oldhippy · Posted

      Before putting it back in the case I would fit the hands and use a pin vice on the stem to make sure the hands were in line. 
    • Jon
      Introducing myself

      By Jon · Posted

      Hi there  
    • Jon
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Jon · Posted

      Put the movement in a movement holder and it will be supported as you push down on the setting lever post to release the winding stem. Make sure the post is over the shoulder of the movement holder so what you are pressing down on is supported. As a general rule, hold the movement and not the movement holder. Replace the hands when the movement isn't in the case and support the centre jewel (if it has one) on a hard surface or staking block when replacing the hands to stop the jewel accidentally moving or even coming out. A dedicated movement holder with a central jewel support is even better, but pricey
    • JohnR725
      Main spring

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      It might help us if we knew which watch like model number.
    • Zedster
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Zedster · Posted

      Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
×
×
  • Create New...