Jump to content

Pocket watch cannon pinion removal


AshF

Recommended Posts

He all,

I can't remove this cannon pinion using my cheap presto tool.  It's smooth with nothing to grip on to.  I'm reluctant to get my hand removers under the pinion for fear of breaking it.  I guess my only option is to fork out for the Bergeon 4854?  I know it's an investment but it sure is expensive.  Any other ideas?

IMG_20201116_194240.jpg.f1f0d9ef387c6a2525d2f2994065d4ab.jpg

The other side has this hand setting cap, what's the correct term?  Without removing it I can't remove the bridge.  Does this pop off like a cannon pinion?

IMG_20201116_194555.jpg.50450248e231e6f20bf232606b98edfb.jpg

I don't normally touch pocket watches, but you know how it goes, friends and family ask so politely if you'd just "have a quick look".

Many thanks, Ash.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, jdrichard said:

Crap....I forgot that move this weekend

Hah, yeah, I watched your video, then I had the same problem.  I'll try a pin vice later.

Any ideas about the other side?  That setting cap on the centre wheel will stop the wheel from being removed from the bridge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, AshF said:

Hah, yeah, I watched your video, then I had the same problem.  I'll try a pin vice later.

Any ideas about the other side?  That setting cap on the centre wheel will stop the wheel from being removed from the bridge.

What does the setting cap look like? Picture

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, AshF said:

Hah, yeah, I watched your video, then I had the same problem.  I'll try a pin vice later.

Any ideas about the other side?  That setting cap on the centre wheel will stop the wheel from being removed from the bridge.

Just had a look. That should come out with the center wheel. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, AshF said:

Hah, yeah, I watched your video, then I had the same problem.  I'll try a pin vice later.

Any ideas about the other side?  That setting cap on the centre wheel will stop the wheel from being removed from the bridge.

Did you like the video? And, I did complete the job and the little watch is running really well and keeping great time. Just need to install the crystal when it arrives.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You want to give a quick smart tap right on the tip above the canon pinion, where the hand fits. This will knock the center pin through the canon pinion and start it out the back of the center wheel; this is usually enough to loosen the canon pinion and get it off, then the pin is a light friction fit in the center wheel. Usually on a watch like this you can do it without supporting the bridge side, but it's good practice to set it on a bench block or use a staking tool with a hole that will pass the square end of the pin.

 

As crown setting became more common this old system developed into the modern canon pinion everyone knows, but you will run into this system from the in-between time where there is no square and it's not immediately evident that it's a pin-through-center wheel arrangement. In cases where the center wheel is jeweled, invariably the bridge side of the pin will pass through the jewel, so you can remove the bridge. Do this, then support the center wheel on its pinion before knocking out the pin. The jewel will crack otherwise. Most of the time they are unjeweled though.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, jdrichard said:

Did you like the video? And, I did complete the job and the little watch is running really well and keeping great time. Just need to install the crystal when it arrives.

Yeah, I love your videos.  I like your narration and sense of humour, always a joy to watch.  Thank you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you very much guys.  All sorted now.  Once I understood the mechanics of the piece it was more obvious what to do.  I got it on my staking set and tapped it out, it was actually quite easy to move in the end.

A quick follow on question...  Since the centre wheel is friction fit (and doing the job of a cannon pinion) I guess it'll need a little grease right?  Just as you would a cannon pinion?

Thanks again everyone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • that band is old as stated, there is a kit that pops up from time to time on selling sites for the repair of these type bands, some of this type are adjustable on a few links, one adjustable type allows you to align the round opening in the expansion slit [like yours] with the rivet to separate, but if yours won't come out then the rivet head is too big and will have to be done with some rivet removal and replacement, I suppose if you could make/optain the correct rivets that one could alter the said band, the tops/caps do lift off after raising the tabs....  
    • This is a watch from a friend who sent it to a neighborhood watchmaker for a battery change. It came back with the watch stem in a ziplock bag and the dial skewed 20°. The watchmaker told him that the stem was faulty and the watch cannot be repaired. I opened up the watch and found that one dial foot was broken off and still stuck in the movement, while the other was bent until it was flat against the dial. The stem could be inserted but it couldn't be pulled out to quickset and time adjusting positions. I did a full disassemble, cleaned and oiled the movement. But when it put in the battery, the second hand runs super fast. Like it gains 30 mins every hour. Any advice on fixing this problem? TIA.
    • I determined that the balance staff is rotating, not the roller table, so my second attempt at riveting was unsuccessful. I have ordered a new balance staff and will take measurements when it arrives. The balance staff i originally ordered (and now reordered) was specified as: Replacement balance staff: (A. Schild Caliber 984 1002 1021 1124 Original Balance Staff Part 723) so it should be correct. Measurements: (see pic below for terminology) xxxyy is a place holder until the new balance staff arrives. Lower pivot: Old - .08 mm New - xxxyy Lower pivot to balance seat: Old - 1.53 mm New - xxxyy Roller shoulder: Old - .42 mm New - xxxyy Hub: Old - xxxyy New - xxxyy Balance shoulder: Old - .86 mm New - xxxyy Collet shoulder: Old - .56 mm New - xxxyy Upper pivot: Old - broken New - xxxyy
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds.  We're here to help. 
    • I was just about to adk that, probably they have unnecessary waiting lists to make their watches appear more exclusive than they actually are.
×
×
  • Create New...