After having experimented with some very cheap watches I thought it was time to attempt something a little nicer. Bought this silver pocket watch and took it apart. Noticed quite a few of the jewels were shattered so is likely to be beyond my skill set at the moment to restore anyway. Despite that, I decided, probably unwisely, to examine the mainspring and measure it up for a replacement so rendering it useless in the process.
The measurement I have taken are:
Height: 2.6mm Thickness 0.2mm Length: 520mm ID of barrel: 16.5mm Type TR Then I find out there is no replacement to be found in the TR book which I accessed through the Cousins website. Am I not looking properly or have I made a big mistake in assuming a replacement could be found?
Hi, I hope you all are fine
Those days I found an old omega f300 cone case sleeping on the drawer polished as a mirror when I bough it, many years ago cheap as scrap.
I decided to give it a try and among other tasks, rescue it's finish, and discovered that it's impossible to do it by hand, each run marks his scratches in a different direction giving even worse impression than mirror polish, so decided to take the challenge of scratching it in a radial and homogeneous pattern.
I read somewhere a post about redoing an Omega cone surface, and found it really difficult, doing supports, regulators and so on, and requiring even a grinding machine, impossible and not to inspiring for me.
Saw even someone using a dremel that took the hell out of me.
Below it's the simple contraption that allowed to do it, maybe you can find it useful for your projects, it's cheap, easy to build and makes the redo a piece of cake.
All the secret is to guarantee that sanding paper (or whatever you use) attacks the surface always in the same "radial" direction, this is impossible if you grab the case or sand paper by hand, any minor deviation will shine as a photo flash ruining the look.
So to do it you may elaborate a complex rotating support, or take a simpler approach.
As the watch is round, almost any "support" that "fills" the case will allow to rotate it around that position keeping the angle and relative position of the case.
So with just a few sticks laying around I've been able to "build" a really simple "fill" to firmly support the case in a fixed position, allowing it to rotate freely but preventing any displacement up down, right or left, so keeping the case in the same relative angle no matter how much you rotate it.
The second challenge was to make a sanding "device" to scratch the cone wall without any lateral displacement, so, just up and down motion along the cone wall, with any lateral distraction.
Again an old lumber piece and a single carpenter clamp did the trick.
Below are a few photos of the job, cheap, easy and efficient, I hope you find it useful.
It was fun to repair a watch case with lumber, sand paper and carpenter tools, still thinking what use give to the hammer.
My apologies, but don't know how to lay the photos in their place
Ask if any doubt.
Cheers and take care
Looking for advice. Daughter (7) bought me a pocket watch from a second hand store. The hunter case crown is missing a cap to open the front. It appears to be threaded. Essinger seems to have the right replacement part. I can't figure out how to get the stem and crown out. I think this is an old Belle Suisse 8810. Help? Also I know it is posted to wrong forum but this was the only non grayed out option.
I've got a Poljot de Luxe that I'm trying to work on. I can remove the case back and see the movement, but this looks to be a front loader.
There appears to be a thin bezel holding the acrylic crystal in place, but no place to insert a case knife or other tool. I don't want to damage the case fighting with it.
Here are some stock images, including one with the bezel/crystal removed. My watch appears to be identical to these.
Does anyone have experience working on these cases?
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I think Earl Gray is an acquired taste. I hated it when I first tried it. Now I find it tolerable. Eventually I might find it ok. 😂 But what do you think of tea used in confections and other foods. Like matcha cakes 😖, Earl Gray cheesecake 🤪, duck smoked with tea leaves 🤔, etc...?
Hello Not really a watch question, however I thought I would it it a try. I have a couple of Silver Beer Mugs that are tarnished and all I have to clean them with is the L & R Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Solution (ammoniated) and a ultrasonic machine. I also have the L & R Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Solution and an Ultrasonic machine. Does anyone know if I can use these two products on the silver beer mugs or should I get another type of cleaner> Also should I be diluting the cleaning and rinse solutions? Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided. Michael
Hi JDM - Thanks for the detailed reply. The Bezel only looks like a rotating time ring, but it's just a "faux" divers watch, only rated to 50m. I think the Seiko "Solar Power" version actually had a rotating ring and Tritium on the hands and numbers and was rated to 200m or something. But, the bezel is fixed. Also, there are no "indent" or any indication that you could use a Snap Back knife to open the bezel. If this is not indeed a screw off bezel (using a screw type base wrench), then a 4 blade bezel tool is likely the only thing that will remove it. Then I'll need to figure out how the stem is removed so I can remove the whole movement to get to the Cap which I assume is underneath. Other owners on some other watch forums have reported the same experience I had with my Lorus/ Seiko 851 model, the Capacitor fails after only 8 to 10 years and nothing like the "promised" 80 years (Life Time Warranty they refuse to obey). Quite a few owners wrote that they had the Capacitor replaced, but no details on HOW. Read my response above to "watchweasol". There's been some conflict about which capacitor to use as well since the original 2023 24T / MT920 was discontinued 30 years ago (probably the reason all these Lorus Solar watch never met the 80-year promise. Supposedly the replacement Cap is a 3023 24T now. The word in some forums is that this Maxell Cap will last 30 to 40 years. The Seiko Kenetic watches supposedly also use this same Capacitor. Have you ever worked on the Seiko Solar version of this Lorus? Thanks.
@watchweasol - I know that was the Seiko "company line" for both the Seiko and Lorus branded "Solar Power" versions, but there are an awful lot of folks that bought both and found the Capacitor died, like mine, only after 8 to 10 years and did have the Capacitor replaced with at first the original 2023 24T version and then the 3023 24T, which is apparently a much longer lived replacement. Seiko's "promise" of an 80-year life for this Capacitor was all hooey and likely the reason Seiko quickly dropped both their own branded model and the Lorus ones after just 10 years on the market. Both Seiko and Lorus (who is no longer in North America) refuse to honor the "life time" warranty. One of the reasons I now trust Casio more than Seiko for warranty promises. The movement in the Lorus is literally the exact same one that was in the 3 "Solar Power" Seiko mens models, a Seiko NA tech admitted that to me almost 30 years ago when mine stopped charging. I bought it new in 1986 or 87, and I still have the original paper manual and box and "Life Time Warranty" card (good for nuthin'). I've been a watch and clock "collector" since a teenager, prefer early American pocket watches, but who doesn't love early American MADE and Japanese and Swiss made wristwatches? So I've also collected all the tools a watch and clock tech uses, many pretty vintage too, and learned how to work to a certain degree on most any watch or clock, restoring and fixing, to my limits. I already have that (another version) Bezel removing tool, am just trying to confirm that the bezel is NOT a screw on, or absolutely IS a press-fit. Was hoping to find someone that has either worked on the Lorus version or the sort of same looking Seiko versions that also had the one-piece "tub" body. The Bezel only looks like a rotating time ring, but it's just a "faux" divers watch, only rated to 50m. I think the Seiko version actually had a rotating ring and Tritium on the hands and numbers and was rated to 200m or something. This Lorus/Seiko is an odd-ball and there is absolutely no repair info on them, so that makes me want to fix it more myself.