Jump to content

My Course Diary


Recommended Posts

I am starting a course diary here for my own records, and maybe people starting the course later might find it of benefit. Feel free to comment on anything here, but if I am encountering something specific I will probably start a separate thread on it.

Level 1

I went through the Level 1 course, and made a list of all the items I would need.

I then compared to the various tools I already had. Some were cheap, some were mid range, but I made a determination on what to get.

 

Level 2

After inspecting my screwdrivers I realised they weren't up to the job so ordered the Cousins/ A*F set.

Now down to the real work.....

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2.1.1 Removing the movement from the watch case

I undid the screw too much and the setting lever fell off. Looks awkward to reattach to my untrained eye. Will tackle this at reassembly stage!

"Once the movement is removed from the case it is advisable to replace the crown and stem and secure the setting lever screw until you are ready to dismantle the keyless work".... well, I can't do this so I will go ahead and see what happens!

 

2.1.2 Removing The Dial and Hands

Well I have no dial. I have a presto tool to remove the hands, but with no dial I accidentally remove the canon pin and hand in one. I then used the tool again to separate them.

 

2.1.3 Removing Power From The Mainspring

I had no power in mine but I wound it a bit to try it out and it was fine.

 

2.1.4 Removing The Balance

As per another post my jewel spring came out, I lost it, and the found it. I managed to get it back in. I managed to work on the 2nd jewel and spring without issue.

 

2.1.5 Removing The Motion Work

My movement came with the dial washer and hour wheel in a separate bag so I didn't need to remove them, and my canon pin was already removed as above.

 

2.1.6 Removing The Pallets

I found it hard to lift the pallet fork and was wondering was it still attached in some way, but eventually it lifted. I tried hard to be very gentle with it and it seems OK!

 

stem.jpg

canon.jpg

jewel.jpg

jewel out.jpg

pallet fork.jpg

Edited by kabong
Added images
Link to comment
Share on other sites

General observations so far.

 

  • I find the wire loupe headband invaluable.
  • I'm worried about flying parts. Unless I build a screen around me then things will go missing. I need to clear my work area so there are less places for things to hide. I've noted a tip in another thread about working inside a bag for some parts.... but I'm worried about when I have to pick parts up and transfer to a storage container.
  • I tried to use Rodico to hold my incabloc spring but found it awkward and I just have a sense that rodico will pick up grit etc but I suppose I just need to learn to be spotless and use it properly
  • I have purchased cotton finger cots but am worried they will generate fluff/fibres. Haven't used them yet.
  • My desk is a bureau table leaf and it's not 100% sturdy. I will have to try to fix that without making it look like a workshop as it's in the main living room.

 

workspace.jpg

workspace01.jpg

Edited by kabong
Image added
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You seem to be doing well so far! Adapting to unexpected occurrences, is vitally important to success I feel. When things aren't going well, just walk away and regroup in a few minutes/days. That helps me a lot. When I first started out, I used to plow through a project from start to finish. I would get tired and my patience would wear thin- then bad stuff happens.

You have to be like Yoda or Bruce Lee and have control, without being controlled by the task.

I have been using a small green mat, like yours, since the beginning. I recently went to the art supply store and got a huge 24X36 inch green matt for slightly more than the Burgeon green mat. It's bigger than your entire table top. More space, or better said, more CLEAR space, helps a lot in tracking down airborne springs and things. Also, check your tweezers and be sure the tips are closing square (and staying that way). My old ones were having trouble in this area, and when I applied a bit too much pressure, things (even screws) would be launched out the tip. My new ones are perfect, and I have redressed my old ones as well, but regardless of cost, the "perfection" of the tips is really critical. (and don't grab things too hard!)

Rodico: I always have at least two lumps on the bench- one clean and one dirty. The clean one I use for cleaning and the dirty one I use for holding, stabbing my tweezers and screwdrivers into to clean their tips etc- less critical cleaning. Also picking up screws and stones sometimes. No reason not to keep the Rodico under cover when not in use. I have seen plastic dust covers for the entire bench before, and I think it's a good idea (even though I have not done it myself).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the encouragement.

Yes I have found in other areas of my life (e.g. DIY) that I am not brilliant at the finer work, and also that I start a job but lose interest and don't finish it, so I am using this watchmaking as a way to overcome that. I'm taking it nice and easy. If I need to pause for a week for a part or tool to come, then fine. If I break something and it takes me a while to figure out how to resolve, then fine.

I did purchase 2 new tweezers too as even I could tell the ones I already have were cheap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2.1.8 Removing the Train Wheels

I had difficulty taking the lid off the barrel. Tried a few things and looked it up online.

Eventually it worked, unfortunately I had forgotten to cover it, and the lid, spring, and arbor went flying!

The spring is wrecked. I haven't found the arbor yet.....

20201105_194909.jpg

Edited by kabong
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2.1.9 Removing the keyless works

As I turned the movement upside down a small part fell out. At first I thought it was my barrel arbor! but it was just the setting lever screw. ? 

When I lifted the setting level spring, one cog came with it.

I have noticed that one of my tweezers is slightly damaged at the tip from messing with the barrel lid ? 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Question

I'm wondering if the following is what I should order?

Barrel Arbour with Screw, Unitas 6497 195

UT64971955

from Cousins... but it's listed as Restricted by Manufacturer!

 

How do I look for a Seagull equivalent?

When I look up the spring I get:

1.50 x .175 x 440 x 14.5 Non-Automatic

GR43071

but it looks very expensive!

 

Do I need to just buy another movement for parts?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, kabong said:

Do I need to just buy another movement for parts?

Buy cheap, working watches even in small lots. Maker doesn't matter but avoid current Chinese. Practice until you can put back one or two at least to the same condition you got it. Then come back to this one which for now has limited damage.  Think and reason on every move. Watch more good videos. Seems to me you need to take it easy and develop basic dexterity first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes I might do that. Will consider it. TBH I was using this one as my practice one as I have the course to follow. Was going to keep working on it until I could do it without referring to notes.

In the meantime here is the spring after I unfolded it a bit. Do you think it is salvageable?

If it is, and I can find the arbor, then I might be OK!

20201105_205824.jpg

Edited by kabong
Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, kabong said:

In the meantime here is the spring after I unfolded it a bit. Do you think it is salvageable?

Probably. At the very least it will allow you to practice getting it back in the barrel. If you don't have a spring winder, then this can be done by hand (although the purists will disapprove).

To find the arbour, grab a magnet, wrap it on a piece of cotton rag, or masking tape and drag it around the floor for a bit, you will almost certainly find it eventually. You may find all manner of other small metal things at the same time.

If it isn't on the floor, then carefully go through the clutter in the writing desk, and poke the magnet in to the corners.

Magnets and watches generally don't get on well together, but a small strong magnet is a useful took for finding lost parts made of steel. Just keep the magnet well away from your screwdrivers, tweezers and of course any other watches.

Edited by AndyHull
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you.

I have just found the arbor! It was among the desk clutter indeed, although I had a hoover with tights over the hose lined up! I have an idea to just put a piece of plywood covering that back portion of the bureau which I can remove easily...as my wife still uses the area.

OK I think I will continue on and try to get the spring in by hand. I don't know much about mainspring winders but they look expensive...

That's it for tonight! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
×
×
  • Create New...