Jump to content

Put Kundo clock in beat


Willow

Recommended Posts

Help how do you put Kundo in beat or even know if it's in beat. Strip cleaned oiled new suspension spring clock working but running slow. I have heard different opinions about the beat setting tool and don't know if it's worth buying ? looked at different video's on setting The beat but can't get my head around it 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok this is a reasonably simple job. First the pendulum must be absolutely in the middle of the lower cup (ie absolutely level). To judge being in beat the pendulum should swivel equally in both directions. Some put a graded card underneath but I just time in seconds each turn. To adjust I believe it is the screw at the top that you adjust.Looking at your vid its not far out BUT why the wobble is the suspension spring absolutely kink free. To regulate just turn the wheel I have highlighted.

1573298269_ScreenShot2020-11-01at16_30_20.png.c130edba543fa6f7f34f34f2bc7add41.png

682636853_ScreenShot2020-11-01at16_36_00.png.4031cfa9e940f7a504622687b140336f.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When setting the beat, watch the Escape wheel, and the pendulum, at the same time!

What you are looking for is an equal amount of over swing, as the anchor releases the escape wheel.

Having a marker on one of the balls will be helpful.  As will having movable  markers on the base, two for the full extent of the swing, two for when the escape wheel is released.  When the escape markers are equal distance from the full extent markers, the clock should be in beat.

Beat is adjusted by the screw head shown in the red ring above.  A very small movement of this screw will have a great effect on the beat.

Once the beat is set, I would allow the clock to run at least a week, before attempting to regulate.

At that point the clock, (assuming still running) it will be running fast or slow, adjust by turning the arrowed wheel, in one direction only.  If the adjustment runs out before regulation, then the suspension spring will need changing, either thicker or thinner.

 

Bod

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The beat adjustment tool is extremely good in getting these clocks in beat. You attach it the part that holds the top suspension block, because it has a long handle you are able to get very fine adjustments to put the clock in beat.

If your clock is   wobbling like that it tells me the suspension spring is't straight. After the pallets escape one tooth the pendulum should carry on with its swing then swing back ans escape its next tooth carry on with its swing and both swings should be even. Bad suspension will cause problems. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  If you have Terwilliger's book there is a graph in the rear section for you to copy as an aid to the timing of the swing and overswing. The wobble is a bit disconcerting.  Again might be prudent to remove the suspension and check it against Terwilligers guide as the suspension may have been changed and the fork is wrong. Although if that's the case it exibit's either skipping or not unlocking. Removing the suspension will enable you to check if its straight or not.  The use of the tool as advocated by Old Hippy enables micro adjustment of the top block and is more sensative than pliers. I have used both methods and the tool comes out tops. Not cheap but essential if working on these clocks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone for your input yes watchweasol i have the book so will look at the page you mention and I think I will change the spring to be sure i haven't somehow put a kink in it

Edited by Willow
Spelling
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Got another one today! It took 10 weeks, but finally arrived. Fairly complete but I added the pivot guage. The burnisher and bow came with the tool. The case is a bit rough and the tool pretty dirty, but trying to decide how much I want to restore.
    • OK, so long story short, I'm working my way through Mark's courses using a "Sea-gul ST36" (or ST3600 from some vendors) AKA an ETA 6497 clone. as a practice piece.  I've had it fully appart and cleaned it, and have had it fully back together an "running", but only briefly as my oil hadn't arrived at the time.  In the course of that work, I saw no markings on the movement that would tell me if it was a true Sea-gul or just a clone of their clone of the original ETA movement. Well, fast forward to this weekend, when my oils arrived in my mailbox and I sat down to try my hand at oiling.  Everything was going swimmingly until I got to the shock setting on the top of the balance cock.  I was able to open the lyre spring without issue, but in attempting to swing the open to access the cap jewel and chaton, I apparently accidentally pressed the launch button as I sent the lyre spring into low earth orbit.  Like most things that make into such orbits it came back down at a place not too far from where it started, but of course that also means that it is no longer in the setting. So my task is now to get said spring back into setting.  What I have read so far tells me that I seem to have two options: Another thread here seems to indicate that the spring came out without taking the balance cock apart, therefore it should go back without the need for that procedure.  That seems a bit pie in the sky for me, but the posts in said thread also gave some high level information about how to get the spring back in (putting it at an angle to the channel cut in the cock and canted so that the tabs fit in the slots, followed by some "wiggling" to get it turned around the right direction.)  I've tried this a couple of times, which have lead to more trips to low earth orbit, but with successful recovery of the orbital vehicle after each trip.  This thread also suggests that what I did to cause the initial launch was to push the spring "back" with more pressure on one side than the other, which put it under tension and caused it to deform out the slot either on one side or at the end (where there is apparently no "back stop".) The other option appears to be varying degrees of disassembly of the balance cock.  Some things I've read suggest that the whole shock setting needs to come out, while other threads here suggest that I only need to remove the regulator arm and the arm carrying the balance stud.  After the last trip the spring made, this is seeming like a better option, but I'm super short on details on how to do what needs to be done.  if I am following correctly: I need to loose the balance spring stud screw so the stud is not held in the arm. I need to somehow disengage the balance spring from the regulator (all the regulators I've seen in videos look nothing like what I see on the balance cock I have.)  What I've seen on the interwebs is a couple of "pins" that the spring passes through.  What I see on my assembly is something that looks more like a single pin with a "V" shaped notch cut in the bottom of it.  The spring is secured in that notch with something that I guessed was glue, Posts here suggest that on some of these movements glue is in fact used.  So I'm trying to figure out how to tell, how to soften dissolve it (I'm guessing IPA or acetone) and how to put it back when I'm done (superglue?  UV glue?) With the spring detached from the cock, I've read that the regulator and stud carrier are basically glorified C clamps around the shock setting and that one removes them by slipping a razor blade under one side of each and prizing them up.  I assume that they go back in the reverse manner like another C clamp, but that again is only a guess.  The place I got this information from seemed to leave that bit out. Once I have one or both arms off the shock setting the above mentioned post seemed to indicate that I could just slide the spring back in the slot, though again, I'm interpolating between the lines I read.  The alternative that I've seen demonstrated on high end movements on Youtube is to remove the entire shock setting and to replace the spring from "underneath" rotating the setting so that spring basically falls into place. I'm not anxious to try this method, as I don't have a jeweling tool to put the shock setting back into place.  That not to mention that the professional watch maker who did the demonstration described "fiddly work." So at the end of the day I'm looking for a little guidance on which pathway to follow, or if I've missed something obvious, a new direction to follow.  If this is a repair that just need to wait until my skills improve I'm totally good with that, I can get another of these movements in relatively short order, I just don't want to treat this one as disposable, and I do want to make an honest effort at fixing it and learning from this experience. Thank you in advance for reading my ramblings and for any suggestions that you might have!
    • All the best, family always comes first, and I believe you have made the right call that you mother deserves your full attention. However, when you need a little outside distraction the guys here will always be available for some banter or a heated discussion on lubrication 🤣.
    • Wire for what? if it's steel then only certain types of steel can be hardened ie high carbon steels: "Mild steel doesn't harden very well. It doesn't have enough carbon. Get something like O1, silver steel or if you want to go full watchmaker, then Sandvik 20AP". Source
    • I'm wondering if there's any specific type of wire I should get for hardening? I would assume it doesn't matter as long as the wire doesn't melt before it is at temp. 
×
×
  • Create New...