Jump to content

Clarifications on cleaning by hand


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I’m following Marks course level 2 at the moment. 

I’m not clear at all about the cleaning by hand process, I will put my doubt underneath:

  • I’ve got myself Zippo lighter fluid, and also Bergeron One-dip solution. It is not clear to me when to use one or the other, or if they are alternative to each other.
  • Phases: Soak, rinse, clean by hand, rinse again...what’s the exact order to follow in cleaning by hand?
  • In the course is said to do a rinse with fresh fluid starting with the balance assembly. Does this imply that the balance assembly is cleaned only one? Or do I do 2 rounds changing fluid, both rounds started with the balance assembly?

Thanks again for clarifications and any additional tips, or the method you use to clean by hand (I will think about a cleaning machine in the future but I’ve spent already a lot of money to start with!)

M

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll find lots of different opinion about cleaning and which fluids to use.  Here are some points that may help you.

Lighter fluid is pretty much like One-Dip except one-dip is pure, won't leave a residue and is expensive.

I keep 2 glass bottles of lighter fluid (actually Renata Essence).  One for cleaning, one for rinsing. 

When the first bottle starts to look dirty (maybe after cleaning 5 movements) I empty it (responsibly) and use the rinse bottle as my clean bottle and make up a new rinse bottle.

I would soak parts in the first bottle for 5 minutes while agitating it with a hand blower.  For stubborn oil use a soft brush.  For very stubborn marks use pegwood.  Then put everything in the rinse bottle for 5 minutes and agitate again.  Finally move the parts onto clean paper (I use normal A4 printer paper) and air dry with a hand blower.  At this point I inspect each part and use rodico to remove any residue.

I would save your one-dip for the balance complete and possibly the pallet fork.  Some cleaning fluids can attack and soften the shellac but one-dip is safe.  Renata Essence and lighter fluid is also ok to use on parts with shellac.  Do not use IPA on these parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The above is more or less what I do. 

Balance complete and pallet fork get one dip (more than once) with scrupulous inspection along the way. 

The rest bathes in Ronsinol and dried on watch paper (once the heavy stuff is off) as many times as needed, and final rinse is 91% minimum Isopropyl alcohol, and then a dry with the blower. I like to keep the Ronsinol film on everything until I’m ready to assemble, at which point I do the alcohol right before oiling. 

Keep the alcohol away from the balance and pallet fork due to the shellac. Many members have dipped in alcohol with no problem but since you have one dip, use that only. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello everybody, sorry for the late reply. Thank you all so much for your help and your tips. I got lucky and found a replacement wheel bridge for cheap which actually ended up being in decent condition. I decided not to do anything about the mainspring barrel pivot since I didn't have the right tools and the barrel didn't have much endshake anyhow. I am happy to report that the watch now runs great, I have regulated it to about +-10/s day which is fine by my standards. The timegrapher result looks decent as well, although beat error is around 0.6ms which could be better I suppose. Amplitude reaches over 230 quite consistently which I'm happy with also. My lighter fluid has also been replaced by balance spring cleaning solution and now the springs don't stick to themselves anymore - who would have thought. I'm super happy with this watch, it might not be worth a whole lot but it's awesome that I could restore it and it makes me wear it with pride. To me it's a genuinely good lucking watch, it'll be my daily driver for a while. Thanks again to everybody for their input! I couldn't have done the repair without your help.   Here are some images for those interested, the bracelet isn't original but I don't really mind:    
    • Balance-hairspring system is oscillator with big Q-factor. When all in the movement is OK, the rate (frequency) is verry close to the own resonant frequency of the balance-hairspring. But in some cases, the movement (with foult) will force the resonator to work on pritty different frequency, sometimes faster, and sometimes slower. When this happens, the amplitude is always weak. So, the first thing to ask is what is the amplitude. If it is more than 180 and the hairspring doesn't touch itself and anything else, then for sure it is 'short'. If the amplitude is weak, then the first thing to do is to understand why and rectify the problem. At this time no point to check timekeeping. But, if one doubts that the hairspring is not correct, then He needs to calcullate the rate of the movement, then to 'vibrate' the balance-hairspring out of the movement and to measure the free oscillations frequency (period) with timer in order to ensure that they comply with the rate. If we have pictures, then it will be easier to tell something about that wheel.
    • So much work has gone into this! Thanks again @Jon. I will go back and check my adjustments from last weekend. A few questions for you, if you don't mind. In the reset position, I can understand the problem if the gap between the hammer and the minute counter heart is too big (slide 77) but what is bad about both hammers being in contact with the cams (slide 76)? I read somewhere that Landeron recommended grease on the runner cam, but the minute counter heart should be dry. Is that so, and why? How many tads in a ligne?
×
×
  • Create New...