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ETA 251252 wheel top plate reassembly


gkmaia

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Usually it is the rotor (parts 4211 in diag) which will not sit upright/square in its hole.  Put a small piece of steel (one that is attracted to the rotor) on the underside of the mainplate under the rotor position.  This should attract the rotor to keep it upright in its hole.  Other than, that clockboy is right, practice and loads of patience.  Use an eyeglass/good magnification to look at the pivot holes, you should see the end of the pivot, and so see which ones are not seated yet.  Have a break if you are getting frustrated, else you may cause damage. 

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Hi Other than what has already been mentioned,  there is no magic bullet. Concentration and practise are the key words, and as Canthus said  walk away when the tension mounts,  have a beer and relax as getting wound up will lead to further problems,  just be patient we have all had our share of frustation.  All the best.

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Thanks for the tips! I managed the put it back together quite a few times already. Think I am getting more used to it. Sometimes I think I have parkinson cause I shake like hell!

I got a 200x digital microscope and I am 100% sure all the pins are inside the jewels.... but

had to disassembly quite a few times because the 210, 204, 224 and 203 are really stiff.

When winding with the crown the wheel 242 inner gear is slipping from it's shaft and sometimes skipping teeth. 

I can move wheel 242 manually but it is really stiff.

I did try removing all wheels and then putting together:

210 and 204 and it winded fine

then 210, 204 and 224 and winded fine

so went ahead and put it all wheels back and still stiff. it does not fell like it is just grinding... feels like when you fasten something really tight. 

did check wheels are no bent, pin and jewels and fine and clean, lubed...

Screen Shot 2020-10-26 at 8.53.35 AM.png

Edited by gkmaia
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I am getting good at it!!! did it quite a few times trying to find what is causing the stiffness.

So I found it... it is the magnetic wheel marked bellow.

But... if I try to rotate the magnetic wheel with a stick directly it rotates just fine and rotates the entire mechanism just fine as well. So it is not stuck. 

I've tried the other magnectic wheels and got the same result and none of the wheels are bent or have broken teeth.

Screen Shot 2020-10-26 at 1.34.50 PM.png

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  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, gkmaia said:

I finally understood what happened here. Complete ignorance. ?

The canon pinion and driver are meant to slip so when the hour and minutes get adjusted the seconds are not affected. 

The watch is working fine now.

So does that mean you now buy more watch grease and less super glue? ?

 

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    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.   I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
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    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
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