Jump to content

Hettich Clock


Michael1962

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi everyone,

I am after recommendations on clear gloss varnish. If I go down to my local Bunnings, I can get clear gloss spray varnish, but the can states for wood. It does not mention any metal on the 'Suitable For' line.

Is there anything that I should be looking for?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok. Good news. Work area taking shape. Was able to pick up a set of smooth jaw pliers,5 in fact, and they look great. From what I have seen of them when I have looked them over they appear quite good. I also bought an led lamp with a magnifying lens. I also picked up the second stronger lens. 3 dioptre and 5 dioptre. Once I checked on the Internet and looked at one of the movements through the 5 dioptre lens, it doesn’t magnify enough. 
I am not keen on the idea of single eye loupes, but I am not sure what sort of magnification I will need? 
5 dioptre works out to 2.25 or thereabouts. 
Not enough.

Any recommendations @oldhippy @watchweasol ?

Edited by Michael1962
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The strongest eye glass I had was a 2. Have you looked at those headband magnifiers? Have a look here and see if you think any look suitable for you. 

https://www.google.com/search?q=headband+magnifiers&rlz=1C1GCEA_enGB908GB908&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj08NGGiLTuAhU-ShUIHRXoB3kQ_AUoAnoECAMQBA&biw=1536&bih=723

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have also found a lacquer and brasso so that is good. There are places in Geelong that redo chrome so that’s another plus. Got to repaint the rear door of the clock. I am sure it was gloss black. I’ll take lots of photos before I start so that I can then show before and after photos to you learned gentlemen. 
I’m really looking forward to this. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Michael  I use both a head band magnifier and also a double lens which clips on the side arm of my glasses, The one I have has two lenses which can be used singly or together. There are some with three.   The head band is similar to the one in Oldhippys post.  I have several types used for different jobs. as a spectacle wearer the head band ones are the most  used.           cheers

 

headband binoculars with light.jpg

Loupe 1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a look at a headband one today. I can't imagine that the headband would be comfortable after a few hours and it had a little flip down monocular like the headband above. However, I am left eye dominant and since my stroke, depending on how I look out of my right eye (non-dominant side), I suffer from nystagmus.

I'll let you look that up. Suffice to say it makes steady vision out of my right eye basically impossible when it happens. The tireder I get, the worse it sometimes becomes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/24/2021 at 6:41 PM, oldhippy said:

The strongest eye glass I had was a 2. Have you looked at those headband magnifiers? Have a look here and see if you think any look suitable for you. 

https://www.google.com/search?q=headband+magnifiers&rlz=1C1GCEA_enGB908GB908&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj08NGGiLTuAhU-ShUIHRXoB3kQ_AUoAnoECAMQBA&biw=1536&bih=723

Still looking as I need to make sure that whatever I get does not require it to rest on my nose. I have to maintain my glasses as my eyes are corrected differently.

What is the point of a 1 x lens?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/24/2021 at 9:04 AM, watchweasol said:

Hi Michael  I use both a head band magnifier and also a double lens which clips on the side arm of my glasses, The one I have has two lenses which can be used singly or together. There are some with three.   The head band is similar to the one in Oldhippys post.  I have several types used for different jobs. as a spectacle wearer the head band ones are the most  used.           cheers

 

headband binoculars with light.jpg

Loupe 1.jpg

I use the eyeglass-attached magnifier.  Partly, I guess, because it is what my dad used.  However, you lose depth perception.  I have several sets of the headband magnifiers which I have used for electronics work.  I also have several magnifier lamps.  I may rethink my approach and maybe go the headband route in order to get depth perception.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm going to try and go down to my optometrist tomorrow.

I wonder how hard it is to change the flip down magnifier to the left side os some of the headband units that you see? On the one above it looks like it is just a matter of changing the screws over.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just found a website selling a 2 LED headband with polycarbonate lenses.

Except, same range of photos and one seller is $54.94. Another is $57.95. The third is $19.99 and comes with three batteries for free to run the LEDs.

I just cannot believe that the third one is what you see in the photos or the first two are ripping people off blind.

The worst thing is that no shops here carry them so there is nothing to look at.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Well I have a magnifier just like the one that the lady has on in the photo above.

Other than that, my daughters new partner has told me that a friend of his does signwriting etc. and will be able to produce the HETTICH logo as well as the 'Made In West Germany' for the face. I presume much like Letraset letters I believe.

I also had to remove all the paint from the rear door and it is steel. I am going to have to clean it up and repaint it as well. I had already tried to repaint it, but the paint that I first tried did not take correctly on a corner. Maybe not prepared sufficiently. I am pretty sure that it is just gloss black.

I am so looking forward to getting into all of the clocks that I have to restore.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi michael  To change it over to the left eye will require a spacer as the one on the picture looks to be screwed on a post. I did something similar with one of mine as I too work with the left eye and most seem to be for the right eye. 

Looks like the clock is getting some serious attention well done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, oldhippy said:

How did you get on with your Ophthalmologists?

Guilty as charged your honour.

I have been so busy with giving our front porch and balcony a birthday (Which is a lot of work. Don't let your wife tell you any different!) that I haven't gone in to see them.

I have a doctors appointment today and I have to go and buy some stainless steel screws (yes, for the balcony), So I will drop in then and see them and ask some questions. I'll be honest @oldhippy, I had completely forgotten.

I shall now go and sit in the corner. Until I have to drive to the doctors obviously.

8 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi michael  To change it over to the left eye will require a spacer as the one on the picture looks to be screwed on a post. I did something similar with one of mine as I too work with the left eye and most seem to be for the right eye. 

Looks like the clock is getting some serious attention well done.

I am pretty positive that the one on mine is just a spacer on a long screw, but I may be wrong. Now it's bugging me that I don't know.

I got this one as you can get up to 10x. It was the only one I could find in Geelong. And yes I need 10x.

I am left eye dominant so hopefully I can shift the monocle over easily.

Edited by Michael1962
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

As I was repainting our letter box and street number doohickeys at the front of our house, I also started the task of painting primer on the rear door of this clock. Rubbing the primer back with wet & dry in between coats.

I have had the door sitting in some Metal Rescue and while it cleaned the door up nicely, I am still;l having a lot of trouble getting the primer to adhere nicely to where the acid has attacked the door.

Once I get the primer sorted and sanded back, will then put the door aside safely. The simple catch mechanism that was on it was a plate riveted to a knob on the outside of the door. That has corroded through as well so I am going to look at removing the remaining part of the knob rivet and drill and tap a hole for a screw.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I have begun working on the rear door of the Hettich for a couple of hours. Painting the door tomorrow. Cleaning up the brass parts for the catch. I have an idea for fixing the catch. It was a brass rivet through the catch plate. That has just worn out. I have two ideas. Will post more about what I am doing once I have painted the door and can do some measurements.

I'll start posting up some photos. Also have amnestying idea for the battery compartment spring retainer. I remember the original. It was a tension spring that was insulated on one end. Just pulled and anchored onto the other end to hold the battery. I am going to use a smaller tension spring and then a loop of leather as the insulator. Should look quite neat when it is done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@oldhippy, my optometrist told me to use a headband so that I could keep my glasses on. Otherwise I would have slightly different focus points with a headband without my glasses. 

I'll be honest, it isn't the easiest. My eyes can play up a bit the tireder that I get and since my stroke my brain (yes, you read that correctly) can sometimes have trouble putting two images together to make one image. It can be especially difficult the through the headband.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I think if you want to play Billy big b.ollocks then you have to have something up your sleeve, anyone that knows how to fight, plays dirty. Lets face it a lot of folk that voted for Brexit just rolled uk their sleeves to say up yours EU hoping for good changes. We have idiots for leaders and probably none of them clever enough to clean the shitty stick they were given. I didnt vote, what will be will be.
    • I voted leave too, my reasoning was the the EU is undemocratic, no elected officials. I don't regret it but I  am sad that both sides acted like petulant toddlers.  Shameful.  I'm not on other forums but if I was and left this site, would you shun me? Of course not, we aren't petulant toddlers.  
    • This is a type of tool that may be suitable to remove the bezel - though note that I'm pretty sure the watch should be face down - not face up, as in some of the photos of these tools on amazon & ebay! If you try one one of those, put the movement screws back in first to avoid accidents. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Removal-Professional-Remover-Watchmaker-Diameter/dp/B09XCH4QVN?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A296NCMMFVXSDN&th=1  
    • Hi, I’m constantly asking my wife to help me with removing the stem in order to complete casing. To expand, this is not a challenge for me when the setting lever is secured by a screw (older calibers). However when the setting lever is attached to a spring loaded setting lever axel, like on more modern calibers, I simply don’t see how to apply enough pressure on the button to get the stem out short of putting the movement face down with the dial and hands attached, which I’m loath to do in order to avoid damaging the dial/hands? what technique should I be using? thanks  
    • Many thanks for your advice (being borne in mind at present) & offer Dell. When I was given the clock the plastic anchor was loose on the arbour (it had split at the 'hole') &, after repairing this, I have been trying to determine whether the spindle (pin) should be perpendicular when the pallet is sitting on a flat surface; or whether, when installed, its L-R extremes (or alternatively its tick & tock points) should lie at equal angles from the vertical when moved with spring absent. I can get the clock to run but in every such configuration the top block has to be turned anti-clockwise (from above) by quite a bit in order to be 'in beat' & it always runs fast (despite the pendulum being set to as slow as possible). This makes me wonder if there is any particular feature of/fault in a torsion spring clock which determines which turn direction (if any) is necessary to get it 'in beat'; & whether there would be a different set of settings that would get it running nearer to time at somewhere around the mid timing/inertia position which would then allow tweaking of the fast/slow setting.
×
×
  • Create New...