Jump to content

Seiko Kinetic


Timpress

Recommended Posts

Hi. I have a Seiko Kinetic. About thirty years old. It stopped about three years ago. I sent it away and the battery was replaced. (I didn’t even know it had a battery.) Now it is starting to go again, with the second hand ticking two seconds at a time. I’m surprised – and wonder if it is the same problem, or a different one (eg, capacitor). I would prefer to send it to someone who know what they are doing, but how to go about finding such a person? Or should I tackle it myself?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi   It is possible to change the capacitor/cell with a few tools,  we need pictured of the watch movement to determine the make and if possible the caliber number,   capacitor /cells cost approx £10 depending on make.

A watch of 30 yrs has done well but deserves a chance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  the model is a seiko 5M42A and I have attached th tech sheet for you as it contains a lot of important information should you decide to do it youself.  also attached id the capacitor.cell list for all the relavant models. this will give you a fighting chance with the DIY option.       good luck.       cheers

Seiko 5M42A, 5M43A.pdf Batteries - Seiko Capacitors (2).pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The original storage cell in Seiko Kinetic movements was I believe a capacitor, the new replacement cells are a lithium polymer rechargeable battery. 

The new batteries have a much higher capacity than the original capacitors which has two consequences, the first of which is that from fully charged it can last months of static storage before the watch stops, the second of which is that it takes a lot more movement to charge it up and so takes longer to get it out of the 2 second tick zone.

You may need to do an extended period of charging exercise to get enough power into it in the first place but once there you should be fine.

If the problem persists though you may want to check the free running of the rotor as if this gets tight charging efficiency will be impared.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Replacing the capacitor on this watch is not difficult, provided you have the basic tools of a reasonable quality, and the confidence to use them properly. 

1)Separate the strap.

2)Remove the case back.

3)Unscrew the rotor retaining screw.

4)Remove rotor and drive wheel.

5)Unscrew the two screws that retain capacitor cover.

6)Remove capacitor cover and insulator.

7)Remove capacitor.

Reassemble in reverse order.

Problems you may encounter include:- 

trying to find one or both of the loose capacitor retaining screws (escapology on a par with Houdini at his best!!).

maintaining the lightweight thin plastic capacitor insulator in the correct position whilst reaffixing the retaining cover.

Hope this is of help.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...