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omega 283

gary17

By gary17
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

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JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
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Usually to get the correct answer it would help to post a photograph. Otherwise you get the correct answer above but is it the correct answer for your watch? I was looking at the parts list and it looks like the spring that does not go on top.

omega 283 spring.JPG

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JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

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It's the amusing problem with watch repair lots and lots of variations. All these companies had clever ideas for doing things sometimes I think to get around patents other times perhaps to have their own patents or just because They like torturing the watchmaker.

The problem with your watch is it's cold and trying to find a really old tech sheet is a problem. I think with this one it goes underneath because If its on top I don't know if there's enough clearance between the pivot and the little bridge that holds it in place.

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Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

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The springs goes underneath the pinion and the bridge on top, there is to be a .02mm clearance between the pionion and jewel thats in the upper bridge. Oil top and bottom interfaces of the pinion with the spring and the jewel. The spring is to hold the pinion high enough to engage leaves with the other wheel.

Both the spring and minute arbour look like they have had it, I am not sure if oiling would be enough, I would polish both.

Good luck.

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Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

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1 minute ago, Nucejoe said:

The springs goes underneath the pinion and the bridge on top, there is to be a .02mm clearance between the pionion and jewel thats in the upper bridge. Oil top and bottom interfaces of the pinion with the spring and the jewel. The spring is to hold the pinion high enough to engage leaves with the other wheel.

Both the spring and minute arbour look like they have had it, I am not sure if oiling would be enough, I would polish both.

Good luck.

Some say the clearance is not neccessary and the pinion should barely rub on both side, but in this case no clearance might eat amplitude or even stop the movement couple of months down the line.

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Jon Super WRT Addict

Jon

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This is how your spring should look.

Your looks a bit bent out of shape, but as long as it pushes up in the correct place on the underside of the sweep second pinion, all will be good.

As has already been said,  the brake spring (which is made from beryllium copper) pushes from underneath the pinion and needs a small dot of grease on the spring where it makes contact with the underneath of the pinion leaves.

It tends to be obvious which way it pushes the sweep second pinion, either from the top of bottom, when you see the spring in place without the sweep second pinion. The spring will show it is pushing down or pushing up, unless it has been badly mis-shappened like yours.

IMG_1844.jpg

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rodabod Distinguished Member

rodabod

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I could be wrong, but I think it may have been the intention that the fancier beryllium springs were left dry. The material has a unique ability to work against other metals without wear. I’ve not seen it mentioned on Omega tech sheets in terms of lubrication. I used to always oil them but then also needed to bend them to increase the friction, so now I just leave them as-is. Would be interested to know if anyone has an original tech sheet which mentions them. 

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JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

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2 hours ago, Tudor said:

Can I have a copy of the Omega oiling chart(s) you have please?

The problem is this watch is too old we need something newer with equivalent spring to see what the recommendation is. But if you'd like an Omega oiling guide you can find it In the list at the link below.The reason there is a list is it covers all of Omega's working instructions that cousins has which is not all of them unfortunately. But you might find something else of interest in the list also. You're looking for number 40 by the way.

Then the problem with omega having of these working instructions or the equivalent for some time that would explain why we find lubrication instructions sometimes lacking in the regular technical guide because they want you to look at the lubrication guide instead.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/search?SearchString=Working

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Tudor Distinguished Member

Tudor

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That, is an excellent resource, thank you!

I have downloaded all the Working Instructions there, so I have them for future reference, even though I don't foresee working on a ceramic case Speedmaster any time soon...

I have harvested documents from Cousin's in the past, but hadn't come across these. Much appreciated.

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