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Help reinstalling dial-side shock spring


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Here is the story folks. I was repairing a vintage ladies wristwatch and also making a video for my youtube channel. I did all the cleaning and was tackling the lower cap jewel. As i was removing the shock spring, I warned that they could easily fly out and be lost if you don't use a toothpick or some rodico and "PING"; it happened. So i looked for 30 min and nothing. Then went to all my scrap movements and everything was too big.  I then purchased 50 various shock springs from CousinsUK.com and only 1 of all the springs was small enough. The one I selected has three arms that would fall into the three indents and then you would have to rotate all three arms into the grooves.

My question is, with only two hands, how do I press all three arms down to rotate the shock spring and should I place a small line of rodico on top so I don't loone this one and only shock spring? I am working with a very high power stereo microscope so I can see everything. I have included the video I made so you can see the original shock spring but the new one is like a donut with three little arms.

https://youtu.be/VphPbKgTyvA

 

 

 

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There are actual tools from KIF for doing these, but what works just as well is pegwood. Trim a piece so that it fits in the setting, then dome the end concave with a round burr. Put the spring in place, press gently with the wood, and twist.

 

EDIT- ah now I see that it's not KIF. On these in my experience there is usually just one opening, do you have 3 there? If so, then the above technique should work. If just one, then slide one arm in with another over the opening, press it down and turn until the 3rd reaches the opening, press it down and turn 60 degrees.

Edited by nickelsilver
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6 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

There are actual tools from KIF for doing these, but what works just as well is pegwood. Trim a piece so that it fits in the setting, then dome the end concave with a round burr. Put the spring in place, press gently with the wood, and twist.

 

EDIT- ah now I see that it's not KIF. On these in my experience there is usually just one opening, do you have 3 there? If so, then the above technique should work. If just one, then slide one arm in with another over the opening, press it down and turn until the 3rd reaches the opening, press it down and turn 60 degrees.

Hey, that is an excellent tip, i will try.  There are 3 openings so all three arms need to go in at the same time. getting out my knife right now:)  Will need to find a small round burr.

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If you don' have a burr, but have a lathe, you can use a drill bit to create the concave end detail.

Doing it by hand won't work well, but you could try some tubing over the drill bit as a guide for the wood, in a vice (point up) and place the wood into the tubing and rotate by hand until you have a concave on the end.

Once the center is done, place the stick in the pencil sharpener and gently reduce the OD until it's right. This should work OK for you.

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I had a similar problem a couple of weeks ago. I believe this type of shock system is called Novodiac.

I used 2 tweezers, 1 in each hand, and keeping the jaws of 1 of them slightly apart to press down on 2 of the arms simultaneously while the other tweezer presses down the last arm and turning the shock spring into locking position. It took me 45 minutes to accomplish that.

I spoke to my mentor the next day and he also mentioned using pegwood with a hollowed tip. He also said that a brass tube, like that from a broken spring bar, also works.

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    • Instead of using tweezers, put a piece of rodico onto a toothpick or pegwood. Then set your spring to the rodico, this way the spring is not under any tension when floating it back into the bloc. As you bump into the bloc when trying to find the entrance the rodico will give but still holds onto the spring ie. You wont have the rigidity of tweezers.
    • If frank says these bombè jewels are for balances and similar pivots then they are used cupped side facing the pivot and then capped i assume. In Nicklesilver's reply i guess that cup can also be reversed and used as an oil reservoir leaving the shoulder riding on a less frictioned domed surface. 🤷‍♂️ Hence the use of them on wheels closer to the escapement that have less torque requiring efforts to reduce friction and are also uncapped.
    • Looks that way, if it had any amount of significant jewel count it would say so on the dial.    Looks that way, if it had any amount of significant jewel count it would say so on the dial.  Same answer as Mike regarding the dial, its often just a slapped on name of a retailer but i thought you were way above this understanding Pete ?
    • Light naptha is what you need to be looking for. The carbon to hydrogen ratio is high with heavy naptha, it doesn't evaporate as well as light naptha and is prone to leaving more residue. Try tom's suggestion of the mirror test.
    • Its a big item Michael and a lot that could go wrong with the process of getting it to its new location. I once helped install one of these units into a conservatory that i had built. It was big and bloody heavy and took six of us to get it in safely. If you have sliding doors and you need to remove the whole frame then that may or may not go well. But i would advise getting a professional in if you have little knowledge on the installation of them. The glazing of the doors could well be 6mm laminated glass which again will be heavy very heavy if the glazing units are big. The glass would also need to be set up and packed correctly to open the doors properly more so if they are unframed and the sliders are upvc. Seems a shame but if no one is biting and that may be due to having no warranty i guess the only takers might be someone that installs them for a living and knows how to repair. If its fibreglass just be careful, i sometimes have to cut fibreglass baths out and they are nasty to work with . Thick gloves are definitely recommended,  not fun picking out fibreglass spells two days later that have started to go septic. Good luck with it all matey.
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