Jump to content

Jacot tool and pivot file burnisher question


Recommended Posts

This site should help you it will save me typing it all out.[emoji3]You don't use gears, all that you need is in the box apart from the bow, or is the bow underneath the tool.

http://www.horo-logical.co.uk/jacot.html


Thanks. The only question I have left is how the gear does not slip out of the female end that receives the pivot that is not being worked?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When adjusted correctly for the the pivot you're about to burnish, the shoulder on that end of the shaft will just touch the Jacob drum and prevent the shaft from moving laterally.  The downward pressure from the burnisher will keep the pivot in place during the burnishing operation.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When adjusted correctly for the the pivot you're about to burnish, the shoulder on that end of the shaft will just touch the Jacob drum and prevent the shaft from moving laterally.  The downward pressure from the burnisher will keep the pivot in place during the burnishing operation.


OK, that makes sense. Time to practical on old Russian watch pivots:)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great video JD . Have an old one i bought at an auction. Cheap. looks okay but wonder how i change the hole in part that holds the wheel. Is there different inserts? Or should it only be held in the pivot? 

 

Everything I have read says that the hole is tapered to accept any male pivots. So no change required. As well, where the pivot transitions into the shift is where the business end is stopped by the resting groove; so the pivot won't fall out of the tapered female hole on the other end. Pressure from the file or burnishing file also keeps the pivot in the slot. Cool

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, jdrichard said:

Figured it out and made a video
 

Oh man, now every one can see how to use one, they're all going to want one, and the prices for used ones are going to go through the roof! :)

Anyhoo, thanks a bunch for the video.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
On 29/10/2016 at 10:37 AM, oldhippy said:

You can buy a burnishing tool just be careful and make sure you get the one for you as they come left or right handed. Needle files are also used for reduction.

Could you please clarify?  What exactly is the difference between a left and a right hand burnishing tool?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

A right-hand burnisher will allow the clock-maker to burnish the pivot from underneath

with the piece being held and rotated from their left.  A left-hand burnisher will allow

burnishing from underneath while being held on the right.  If the preference is to burnish from over-the-top, a left-hand burnisher is used with the piece being held on the left and a right-hand burnisher with it held on the right.  This can add confusion as to which burnisher to purchase.  Since most machinists will machine with the piece being held in a lathe head stock on their left whether they are right- or left-handed, it should first be decided whether burnishing will be done from underneath or over-the-top.  

 
e-top.
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  A right-hand burnisher will allow the clock-maker to burnish the pivot from underneath



with the piece being held and rotated from their left.  A left-hand burnisher will allow

burnishing from underneath while being held on the right.  If the preference is to burnish from over-the-top, a left-hand burnisher is used with the piece being held on the left and a right-hand burnisher with it held on the right.  This can add confusion as to which burnisher to purchase.  Since most machinists will machine with the piece being held in a lathe head stock on their left whether they are right- or left-handed, it should first be decided whether burnishing will be done from underneath or over-the-top.  

  e-top.

I purchased a combined burnisher and pivot file from cousins UK at about 90 bucks and I made sure I could hold it with my left hand on top and turn the pivot (in the jacot) with my right hand. Meaning the rounded part of the tool is on the bottom right to confirm with the slope of the pivot for balance staff pivots.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • A already know the size movement I have the problem is the dial a had purchased has a dimension 20.6mm wide a want to find a watch case that going to fit the dial perfectly 
    • Hi.  I would like to take issue here regarding battery driven , watches, clocks,etc. I will and do repair these clocks in fact I have sever al in my collection as well as the regular mechanical ones. I have one on my mantle piece over 60 years old tha belonged to my wife’s Aunt,  long gone Iam afraid and it has been cleaned etc and never missed a beat and is accurate. Every one has their preduices as regards Electrical /electronic Horology but I regard it as part of the progress time line of the art of Horology and to be treated as such. Like Darwin’s theory of evolution it evolved.  Two cavemen knocking rocks together and a shard broke off , looking at it he worked out if it was stuck on the end of a stick he would have a spear. Likewise his pal seeing what he was up to picked up a piece  and did the same, now that’s evolution. Some clockmaker decided to build a clock that ran with a battery and no spring to wind up and break, progress and both the mechanical and battery driven clocks evolved, the battery ones got better to the point that if it broke you changed the complete unit. Likewise watches did the same but both can be repaired by people who approach Horology with an open mind without preduice.  We all have our likes and dislikes bu I for one would never dismiss any technology because I don’t like it.   The mobile phone is a good example of modern technology at work as is the automotive industry. There buttons and switches in my car I don’t use because to me they are not nesessary but I still drive the car.
    • I haven't gone through all the reading of what it might be or not. The first thing I would do if nothing obvious stands out is replace the mainspring, you have to start at the source of the power. Nine times out of ten that is the problem.  
    • Haha. You're just in a wicked mood today John 😅
    • Heres my watch of today, a Smith 13'" RY . My missus bought me this for this Valentines day a bargain 14.99 with a reduction, the seller has occasional 20% off offers now and then so it was about 15ish with delivery. I love Smiths and i love bulleye dials, this is my first one. The watch arrived non working as stated and i knew what was inside and what would be against me, but i enjoy a challenge, we dont expect a lot if anything from pin pallet movements. A balance pivot was broken and i didnt have another staff but i did have another RY with a battered dial so i robbed the balance and tweaked it around to make it work apart from that mostly just a good clean and relubrication. Keyless works are pretty rough by design and the crown is a bugger to get in and out with the dial on, the setting lever hits the dial before it releases it, so a little mod is needed to help that along. Major problem was the pins on the lever were quite worn which make the old tg have a snow storm fit. Its a similar read for most pin pallets, these were brass as was the escape wheel. But perseverance is me, i didn't change the pins but i did spend some time dressing and polishing the worn areas which improved the trace a lot with some straightish lines 😅 and a beat error of .5 . Not sure what the lift angle should be on these and i Wasn't in the mood to work it out and who believes timegraphers anyway, but at the default 52° it runs with 260ish full 210 after 24 hours dial down , the verticals rates were pretty much all over place. So lets just put it in it's superlight aluminium case and see what happens. Been wearing it now for 3 weeks and it's consistently losing around 1.5  minutes a week winding each morning i think pretty good for an old pin pallet watch. I just love this dial, thanks wifey heres my Valentine's gift for yer sweetie x
×
×
  • Create New...