Jump to content

New Arrival Quiz


Recommended Posts

Never mind, the cigar is something I won't miss.

These new fangled electric things are all the same to me anyway..... black magic!!!!! :devil:

It's 45years old! Hardly new fangled! ;-) It really does hum!! It's in really good nic, the bracelet is signed omega but almost looks too good! It has the feel of a brand new watch!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's a lovely watch Yogi. :) I don't care what Marc says (where's the sticky out tongue smiley when you need one?)

 

:P to you too Geo  :D

 

Actually I have absolutely nothing against these or any other of the transitional technologies between mechanical and quartz (nothing against quartz either), it's just that I have very little experience of them; and that is a very nice watch Yogi.

 

I do have a non-working Accutron sat in my projects box waiting for me to pluck up the courage to have a go but I need to source a replacement component coil first, I got as far as testing that with a meter.

I also need to work out how I can test the functionality of the rest of the electronics without having to fork out a mint on new tools that will only get used once in a blue moon. I do have an old oscilloscope (CRO) and was wondering if that could be of any use in diagnosing problems in watch electronics so if anyone can shed any light I am all ears.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can tell by the lugs - just showing in the picture - that it's a cone casing, as opposed to the more conventional lug casing. I've never been turned on by the cone case when I've seen pictures of it off the wrist - but I have to say it looks good on the wrist.

 

Should anyone want to indulge in a hummer, there's a very friendly chap in Brighton - Paul - just down the road from me, who is the man behind the Electric Watches Company:

 

http://electric-watches.co.uk/

 

He has drawer after drawer of the little hummers - Hamiltons, Bulovas, Wittnauers - some of them for sale at reasonable prices. What he doesn't know about them isn't worth knowing. Super guy - worth checking out if you need a service or a s/h hummer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

He's an extremely knowledgeable and friendly guy. I saw his collection of stuff and his workshop at his house recently. He's also the chappie who sold me the ESA/ETA movement technical sheets that I've been scanning and adding to Mark's movement database.

Edited by WillFly
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If you live in the UK then you can take the exams at Upton Hall at BHI head quarters in Nottinghamshire UK.  Since I live in the US, I found an invigilator in my town, approved by the BHI exams supervisor, to manage my exams here locally.  My invigilator will receive the exam material and provide it to me at the appropriate day for the designated amount of time I have to perform the test.   In the higher level courses there are some that you must take at Upton Hall in person (D9, D11, D16, D18 and D20). You can find more information here   https://bhi.co.uk/training-education/examinations/    I still have to decide what level I want to achieve, but know my understanding of horology has greatly improved by the material I have covered thus far in this course.  
    • Yes. I understand (now). I regret to say that I am servicing watches without fulling understanding the cannon pinion function in relation with setting the time  (and many other theory aspects of the orology!!!). If is too tight the hands won't move and on the contrary. If the pallet fork is not installed the train of wheels will spin freely and if the remontoir is on the setting position the motion wheels will also move. I will use HP 1300 for the cannon pinion setting. I am happy and grateful and of course I will report back as soon as I can. Thanks   
    • Hi Fernando, read carefully what @eccentric59 wrote, it is the key to You problem. Lubricate the cannon pinion. Take care to understand what is it's function. When You set time, the train doesn't move, but only the cannon pinion moves. Put hte lever back in it's place, it has nothing to do with time setting
    • Hi fernando. Let us know how you get on.
    • OK, in You case You will assemble the movement with the line attached to the barrel and fusee and will  wind the line  entirely on the barrel after that. It is important when replacing the line to know the correct lenght of the line. The rule is that when line wound on the fudsee entirely, about 1/4 turn still to remain on the barrel. Yes, no tension. The ratchet is not placed yet, the spring in the barrel is complitelly unwound. At the end of the step the fusee is empty and the line is attached to it and strained perpendiculary to it, not on tangent. The escape wheel. Use whatever that will not damage anything. Yes, this is typing mistake, sorry. The word 'pendulum' here is not correct, You should use 'anchor' and yes, it is removed from the movement at this point, according my instruction 1 (Ihave used the word 'lever' there):   Ok, let sey the barrel arbour makes 6 full turns when winding the spring in the barrel from unwound to fully wound state of the spring. Let sey that the barrel makes 4.5 full turns when winding the clock from fully unwound (the line is on the barrel) to fully wound (the line is on the fusee) state. This means that You should not wind the spring in the barlel when adjusting the initial tension to more than 1.5 turns of the arbour of the barrel.  If You make 2 full turns, then when winding the clock, the barrel will be able to turn to only 4 turns, so the limiting device will not limit the rotation of the fusee arbour and You will be able to force the line much more than when the limiting device acts, also the power reserve will be less. Hope this is clear now... Yes, but again - not the pendulum, but the anchour.   About the loosing time... In this kind of escapement, the frequency pritty much depends on the torque. The higher torque - the highrer frequency. This is because this escapement forces the pendulum to oscillate significantly faster than it's own resonant fequency. The frequency depends on the 'depth' of the escapement too - the deeper escapement is, the lower the frequency, and the higher amplitude of pendulum oscillations. The heavier the pendulum is, the harder to the movement (the escapement torque) to force the pendulum to oscillate faster than it's own frequency. And in the end, the own pendulum frequency depends only on the pendulum lenght and a little on the suspension spring 'strenght' This are all the relations between all the factors. You can try to use the old spring (if it is not broken) and see if the clock will work faster with it. Yes, the old springs of fusee clocks sometimes give bigger torque than modern ones, no matter if they seem to be 'set' You can shorten the pendulum to achieve correct frequency. If the torque is reduced, but enough for the movement to work reliably,  then reduced torque will only lead to lessen the wear. The torque in fusee movements is more or less constant all the time, this is the function of the fusee. You can use the Clock Tuner  free app for android to adjust faster the clock rate. You will need to know the BPH of the movement, so count the teeth of the wheels and pinions and calculate the BPH
×
×
  • Create New...