Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Don, I can't see it with the naked eye, what I was referring to is seeing it through my camera's viewfinder/lcd display.



Gotcha. I have a little remote control/dimmer that can attach to my light and it has the same problem. Fortunately, full brightness works for me. Good luck!

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...
  • jdm featured this topic
  • 9 months later...

Just bought myself a useful little light from Lidl of all places.

Claims to put out almost 700 lumens and is dimmable with 5 different colour temperatures. Was only £15.
At first try, it certainly is bright.
I'll be testing it soon when I replace the movement in my Breil One Ducati chronograph.

fvcn1cM.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

I struggle with lighting. I have a good 21 Watt, 6500 K led desk lamp but I need something additional due to shadows. Oiling jewels is difficult, slots in screw heads can be difficult to see…
I do have a little led lamp (in the picture) but that’s too high and doesn’t help at all.

I could get an adjustable floor lamp and put a good bulb in it but it’s not very practical, I’d have to keep moving it out of the way all the time.
I’m thinking of a ‘goose neck’ led lamp:
https://durston.com/product/durston-led-goose-neck-lamp-dim-cct-white-eu-plug/

Is there something good around 15W I could get?

20190624_200040 (Copy).jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

How about making the room lighter. Better main lighting. If you have a window in the room, how about moving you bench around to benefit from that. The table top could be a lighter colour. 

I usually get to tinker with it later on when it’s dark. I just bought two 15W cool light - light bulbs for the room, it helps a little but it’s not great, it’s too high in the ceiling. Ideally I could do with something behind me (from the side) and fairly close to cancel the shadows but having a floor lamp would be very awkward. Ideally I’d like something I could put on the desk, sort of a spot light that’s powerful and I could move about and direct the light where I need it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  Whats the possibility of building a frame fitted to the desk  with an overhead flourescent tube or double tube assembly over the work area, Inconjunction with the desk lamp it should minimise the shadows.  If the height is made adjustable up/down it would be even better. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use this LED light. It’s small, standing eleven and a half inches tall. The top of the light flexes so you can move it into different positions. Sometimes it’s too bright so I tape a piece of watchmakers paper to the light to diffuse it a bit. Costs $29.00. I ordered it online from Office Depot. 

Picture is has the light on my workbench. 

53F42657-BF2A-4F0F-B1EE-D9E3D5ED6515.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi  Whats the possibility of building a frame fitted to the desk  with an overhead flourescent tube or double tube assembly over the work area, Inconjunction with the desk lamp it should minimise the shadows.  If the height is made adjustable up/down it would be even better. 

I’d love that but I don’t have a dedicated desk, it will have to be an additional light that’s easy to put away and ideally not too big.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, JohnHutchins said:

I use this LED light. It’s small, standing eleven and a half inches tall. The top of the light flexes so you can move it into different positions. Sometimes it’s too bright so I tape a piece of watchmakers paper to the light to diffuse it a bit. Costs $29.00. I ordered it online from Office Depot. 

Picture is has the light on my workbench. imageproxy.php?img=&key=77f0dcc5ac0f9d5b

53F42657-BF2A-4F0F-B1EE-D9E3D5ED6515.jpeg

Yes, something like that might do the job. In many ways similar to the goose neck lamp I’m looking at.
If only I knew what I need. The light in the picture I posted is very good (not the small one), it’s the fact that it is slightly in front of me hence the shadows. I can move it right above what I’m working on, but again, there will be shadows elsewhere because my hand and head will get in the way.

I’m starting to think that a floor lamp next or close to me will be the best solution, casting the light from opposite direction. A head torch would be perfect but I don’t want to sit there with it on for hours.

When I look at Mark’s oiling videos (jewels) it’s so clear, yes it’s a lot more magnified than my 12x loupe but there are no dark areas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats  a poser,  what I had fitted to the bench at on time was a four in line which used halogen bulbs the same thing uses LEDs now and fitting that up with some 2by1 and made colapsible so that it folds up. the multiple light array should go some way to removing the shadows as the lights strike at different angles,  if it has a decent base a G clamp will fix it to the table/bench, food for  thought.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know if you need diffused or spot light but the latest LED tubes of natural light are amazing. 7 - 8 euro gets you 1.50m at 18W, just use two holders at the end, you can set it on a wood board or what you like.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Peter     Been racking the brain cells, Was thinking on the lines of making your own anglepoise type lamp to your own spec using the 2x1 hinged  and clamped to the bench, as jdm says you can get some LED lights with good light out put and they run cool, better than halogen. Istead of the standard lamp head use a timber rail and mount the lamps on that. parts required are some M6 bolts with wing nuts and some wood. the bolts and wing nuts form the hinge in the wood with a washer each side to tighten the angle when in the required position. If you want a rough drawing message me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, jdm said:

I don't know if you need diffused or spot light but the latest LED tubes of natural light are amazing. 7 - 8 euro gets you 1.50m at 18W, just use two holders at the end, you can set it on a wood board or what you like.

18W sounds great, can you post a link so I know what I’m looking for? I'm sure I would find something similar in the UK.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Peter     Been racking the brain cells, Was thinking on the lines of making your own anglepoise type lamp to your own spec using the 2x1 hinged  and clamped to the bench, as jdm says you can get some LED lights with good light out put and they run cool, better than halogen. Istead of the standard lamp head use a timber rail and mount the lamps on that. parts required are some M6 bolts with wing nuts and some wood. the bolts and wing nuts form the hinge in the wood with a washer each side to tighten the angle when in the required position. If you want a rough drawing message me.

Yes please, a rough drawing would be fantastic. Thank you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
    • Have read of the Tech Sheet attached on the balance section page 12. It may be bent but until you reposition it back in the regulator pins you'll never know. Cheers CJ 4R35B_4R36A.pdf
    • Aloha All, My Seiko 4R35B movement stopped working today. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the balance spring came out of the regulator pin. This is my first time working on a balance. Any advice on how to get this spring repositioned (back to normal)? I'm pretty sure that while adjusting the beat error on this movement, I must have turned the stud (I didn't even know they turned), and the spring eventually fell out.  Will the spring go back to even spacing when it's back in the pin, or does it look bent? Thanks, Frank  
×
×
  • Create New...