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Just Finished This One For My Wife!


DJW

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That's cool - very impressive.

 

Just a thought: have you ever considered doing the painting slightly smaller, inside an inner chapter ring, and with a painted egde, with conventional numerals or batons in the outer chapter? That would give the effect of an old-fashioned miniature painting as part of a watch face. Might be cool as well...

I have thought of that but there are limiting factors when painting on a smaller scale. The limiting factors are the brushes I use and the paint. I have purchased some extra fine brushes, but the paint that I'm using will not actually transfer if it is not thinned enough. Then there is the issue of opacity(?), thinned too much means not enough color.

 

Snow Leopard is brilliant.  The biggest problem is getting it shown to the right people,  the ones with money,  some sort of exhibition?

 

Have you thought about working in enamel? 

 

RogerC

You are right about getting these shown to the right people. I had my other watch (The Samurai) for sale on eBay and it only got to $200us, very disappointing!

I would love to use different paints that lend itself to miniature painting...the problem is I don't have the knowledge of what and how to use these different mediums. At some point, I will give it a go!

 

Don

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I have thought of that but there are limiting factors when painting on a smaller scale. The limiting factors are the brushes I use and the paint. I have purchased some extra fine brushes, but the paint that I'm using will not actually transfer if it is not thinned enough. Then there is the issue of opacity(?), thinned too much means not enough color.

 

 

I used to know a dial restorer who used sharpened peg-wood with black ink and an extremely steady hand. That was on enamel pocket watch dials.

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I used to know a dial restorer who used sharpened peg-wood with black ink and an extremely steady hand. That was on enamel pocket watch dials.

I will give this a try tonight...

 

Another thought is to make some batons from silver or brass sheet. :)

On most of my dials I use the original Hamilton dials with the indices removed. I may try and affix them in their new orientation since most that I have removed are solid 18k gold. I could use some of the old dials themselves as most were sterling silver from what I've been able to find out.

 

Those dials are works of art, what talent you have. The fellow who built my Archer watch has a vintage version using similar Hamilton movements. Those old Hamilton movements were a feast for the eyes.

The Hamilton's are a beautiful movement for sure! The only negative is the lack of shock protection. I was showing a person one of my builds and accidently dropped it on the floor! Whack! There goes the balance staff. I've thought about a retrofit Parachute type shock protection but was not sure if it would really improve the shock resistance... 

 

 

Don

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That is the downside of vintage and its funny you say that as One of the first things Al (Archer watches) said to me when I was deciding between the vintage or Sterling was that you have to be more careful about shock with the Hamilton movement as it is vintage with no shock protection. Seeing as most of my collection is vintage I went the new movement route for practicality though I just know I will get a vintage one some day. Personally I would not change a part of the movement and just be a little more careful with it.

 

Its surpassingly easy to condition yourself to how you wear vintage and new pieces.

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Two beautiful watches !  I particularly like the first one, what vintage are the movements ?      

 

 Phil.     :)

Sorry for the late reply! I had to fly from Washington DC to Seattle, then pickup my wifes car and drive it back to Washington DC (Alexandria, VA)! One day left to get home, I'm BEAT!

Anyway, I know the First watch that I posted is from about 1937, I believe. The second movement has no serial numbers but I believe they were produced from 1956-1968. 

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Looking back over the posts on this topic you say you were offered $200 for the Samuri,  this is not a bad price,  it might not be as much as you want, but seeing as you are just getting started,  it's not bad.  How important is the movement?  Does it have to be a Hamilton?  How about if you used a modern shock protected movement.  If you can reduce your costs $200 does not look so bad,  if it cost you $100 and you can sell it for $200 thats pretty good by any standard.

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Looking back over the posts on this topic you say you were offered $200 for the Samuri,  this is not a bad price,  it might not be as much as you want, but seeing as you are just getting started,  it's not bad.  How important is the movement?  Does it have to be a Hamilton?  How about if you used a modern shock protected movement.  If you can reduce your costs $200 does not look so bad,  if it cost you $100 and you can sell it for $200 thats pretty good by any standard.

 

As for costs, the movement with overhaul is roughly $100, the case(wholesale) $50, hands $10, Strap $10-$15, the dial materials are $10+-not to mention the hours it takes to produce the dial to my standard, plus selling fees for ebay and accepting PayPal run close to 10%...

So, to follow your analysis, a pretty good standard would be to double what I have into the watch....Which is about what I sell them for.

 

As for saying that this particular watch "$200 is not a bad price" I really beg to differ. On a purely business level it makes no sense.

 

As for using other movements, I have used ETA 6497/98, Asian ST36(ETA Clones) and the Swiss ETAs costs 50% more and sell for less than the Hamilton based movements.

I do agree that if you are able to sell a watch for double what you have into it, is a good start. That is what I do, and have been doing since the start. Actually, I've been selling them for $500-$600, which I'm happy with.

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I do agree that if you are able to sell a watch for double what you have into it, is a good start. That is what I do, and have been doing since the start. Actually, I've been selling them for $500-$600, which I'm happy with.

 

I did not realise you were able to sell in the $500 - $600 range,  I thought $200 was the best you had been offered.  If you are selling at double your outlay that sounds like the road to success.

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  • 3 weeks later...

DJW, where do you source the cases for these?

Thank you,

Alec

Do a search for dajiwatch and register to get the lowest prices. They are pretty responsive too when asking any questions! 

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That case should work great for you!

There are 2 different styles of this same case, though. I usually opt for the other style as it does not have the "Limited Edition" engraving on the side of the case. I believe it will say "117/1000"

The case with the numbers engraved on the side were produced to make counterfeit IWC FA Jones...the same watch that Mark was working on the Hack problem. You may be able to contact then to change to this one if you don't want the watch to have engraving....

http://www.dajiwatch.com/productshow1045.html

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The pictures of the case I've ordered show it to have the numbers on the side but, frankly, I'm not bothered. It's just a bit of fun as far as I'm concerned and, if I sold it on, I'd give the full history of it as a "kit"! :)

Edited by WillFly
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