Jump to content

Dial feet repair - All techniques


Recommended Posts

i'm counting on you, rodralph. this do it yourself stuff is great.

Thanks. I had to put my DIY projects aside for a little while to focus on other personal matters, but will update the other thread once I make more progress.

 

 

I updated the site including some answers: http://dirkfassbender.de/dial-feet-soldering-machine.html

 

Thank you for adding the details on your site. I like the idea of using the probe assembly as a rod holder as my original idea was to use a small soldering iron instead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Well, 35€ compared to 300$ US made or 625€ from Bergeon, so we can not talk really about cost. As I want to make dials for some pocket watches it will be well worth it.

 

The cost of making this machine is negligible compared to the cost of buying one, especially if you only use it a couple of times a year. I've been playing around with the idea of using a high voltage power supply like those used for laptops. I have several of those bricks laying around. I just need to find the time to do it.

 

Good work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Seems that most people are using 60/40. Here are some pics of the solder and flux. I had a better result this time, but I still seem to be getting rather weak joints. I am using brass wire for the feet which I believe should have similar soldering properties as copper. I thoroughly cleaned the dial back to a shiny smooth finish. I filed the end of the wire flat and smoothed the end and sides with emory paper to nice shiny finish. i dabbed a bit of flux on the dial and on the foot. Placed some tiny bits of solder near the joint and hit the current. MOst of the time the solder rides up the side of the foot a bit. Doesn't seem to flow into the joint. Have tried different combinations of flux location, vertical pressure on the foot, etc. No luck :(

IMG_0667.JPGIMG_0668.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Vinn - I will take some pics of my "jig" when I have some spare time. To answer your question though - the actual dial I am repairing (have been using a junk one for now) still has the spots where the original feet were located. Having said that, when I clean up the back to prep for soldering I will likely loose those locations. I was planning on scribing some cross hairs to keep the location. That should do the trick. If not, I will locate the new feet in the movement plate, put some ink on the tips and carefully place the dial on and remove - that should mark the location, but I prefer the first method. Happy to entertain better ideas though!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No time like the present! Here's the setup. I bought the machine on ebay last year for $30. Works on same principle as the one in the link I sent previously. You'll notice that I am holding the dial in a movement and have attached the ground lead to the holder. Using a "third hand" setup to support the foot in a pin vise. When I apply the current, I can also press down on the top of the pin vise if more pressure is desired. I use a piece of pith wood to press down since I don't want to touch the vice itself. Not sure if that would shock me, and frankly don't want to find out :)

You can see one of my seitz tools in the background. Was experimenting using that to hold the foot in place as well. Not enough clearance to work with a longer piece of wire though.

 

IMG_0669.JPGIMG_0671.JPGIMG_0670.JPGIMG_0673.JPGIMG_0672.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To mark the position of the dial feet, place the movement into position on the dial (face down and sometimes more secure putting back in case) and with a thin jewellers twist drill in a pin vice, guide it through the dial foot hole and turn in the correct direction of the twist drill. This should make a good mark on the back of the dial. Repeat for the other hole(s).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The original 6139A manual is very clear in how to disassemble and how to assemble ...... step-by-step. However I haven't seen the 3169B manual, even the Japanese version around, which clearly highlights the difference in center-wheel. Also, why the two different center-wheel reference numbers for the same caliber; 6139B? 6138A Seiko Technical Guide.pdf 6139_A.pdf 6139b.pdf 6138B.pdf    
    • Hi as an addition a pertaining to the assembly of a 6319B  which will be handy for those working on this caliber Polly's 6139 guide.pdf 6139A.pdf 6139B.pdf
    • Casio MDV106G-1AV Gold DURO200 I'm going on a long family vacation to Southeast Asia this summer and wanted a cheap but reliable beater in case I lose it, break it, or get robbed. Quartz movements aren't my thing, but I'm not dogmatic and this was a cheap option. A few years ago you could buy it for under $50, but since this particular model with the Marlin fish has been discontinued, you have to pay about double that, but I still thought it was acceptable. Sure, I could wear one of my cheap and very reliable Vostok Amphibian divers watches, but I have a personal relationship with them (having put a lot of work into them) and don't want to risk losing them. Strangely, I feel very excited. Maybe because I haven't bought a brand-new watch in over 10 years! 😀 The only downside is that this is the watch Bill Gates has been seen wearing, and I'm not exactly a fanboy of Bill Gates. Anyway, who cares!?
    • This post has some pictures that describe how to get the spring back into the setting without having to disassemble anything.  With patience, this approach works.  The advice that the spring will ‘float’ back in when positioned just right is spot on. If you try to push it so it flexes and pops back into the setting, it’ll probably just fly away, as you’ve already found.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • I recognize myself all too well. It takes a lot of experience and discipline to recognize when it's time to cancel and come back at a later time. Very well said! We should have a forum dedicated to this topic as it is critical to achieve success when working on watches. It's a lot more important than most other things related to watch repair. And yes, just a short break can make a world of difference!
×
×
  • Create New...