Jump to content

How do I install this mainspring?


Bopmd

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I was cleaning my Longines sport chief and after reassembly it worked very well untill I wound it up fully. I believe the issue is that I did not install the mainspring correctly. Where does this banana shaped piece go and what is it's purpose? 

Thank you very much in advance :)

Snapchat-1708548195.jpg

Snapchat-360378216.jpg

Snapchat-459235616.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  The "banana" piece is the broken tongue from the outer end of the mainspring which attaches its self to the barrel wall when the spring is installed. Automatics have a much longer piece which acts as  a brake and slips as thw watch winds up non automatics employ a spring like yours.  see the following Image attached 

MainspringSizes.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you look at the picture posted above it's a T end mainspring. The problem with any of the unusual shaped mainsprings are that you can't just push it in it has to be in the right place otherwise it will never magically go into the right place all by itself. Ideally for T end it would be nice if you had a mainspring winder. You'd wind it all most all the way into the winder you'd leave a little bit out. Then you slip the little bit out and the winder into the barrel so your barrel for the winder has to be little smaller than usual. Rotated around until the tea party is over the slot or hold that it goes into push it into place and then use something to hold it in place. Like push on it with the end year tweezers the biggest screwdriver you have it just has to be held in place when you push the mainspring out otherwise it's not going to be there when the mainspring comes out. Once the mainspring is out any fantasy thought of rotating it to get it to go where it's supposed to be is a very very limited. So basically it has to be where it's supposed to be when it's inserted.

If you hand wanting it in you do have to make sure it's in the slot before your wind the rest of the spring otherwise the same problem cannot be rotated to get it in place is too much pressure on the barrel wall.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

If you look at the picture posted above it's a T end mainspring. The problem with any of the unusual shaped mainsprings are that you can't just push it in it has to be in the right place otherwise it will never magically go into the right place all by itself. Ideally for T end it would be nice if you had a mainspring winder. You'd wind it all most all the way into the winder you'd leave a little bit out. Then you slip the little bit out and the winder into the barrel so your barrel for the winder has to be little smaller than usual. Rotated around until the tea party is over the slot or hold that it goes into push it into place and then use something to hold it in place. Like push on it with the end year tweezers the biggest screwdriver you have it just has to be held in place when you push the mainspring out otherwise it's not going to be there when the mainspring comes out. Once the mainspring is out any fantasy thought of rotating it to get it to go where it's supposed to be is a very very limited. So basically it has to be where it's supposed to be when it's inserted.

If you hand wanting it in you do have to make sure it's in the slot before your wind the rest of the spring otherwise the same problem cannot be rotated to get it in place is too much pressure on the barrel wall.

Ok, thank you. I did get it in the notches in the barrel, but I just wasn't sure what do with the broken piece. Watch works perfectly now without the piece. I would probably be smart to get a new spring, but I'm on a budget :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Worth pointing out that to substitute using a T-end mainspring, sometimes a short section of T-end is used with a conventional resilient hooking spring which works as an alternative. More often seen as a repair job on older watches. Some barrels which have cut-outs for a T-end will also have a suitable notch to allow a resilient hooking to work as well - such as those found on 40’s and 50’s JLCs. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you ever seen grease spread?  I use Molykote DX on the keyless, cannon pinion, etc and cannot imagine it spreading. Similarly, HP1300 should not be a problem, as long as you don't splash too much about.  9010 does like to travel though. I've recently re-serviced a couple of my watches I first serviced about 5 years ago. I was a bit too liberal with the oil and grease back then, but it hasn't spread everywhere. I only epilame on balance cap stones, escape wheel and pallet stones (and auto wheels if they need it).   If you use it all over, the oil might bead-up and travel even further - think of using RainX on your car windows.
    • Polish it where the old part cracked as well. Get rid of the stress-raisers.
    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...