Jump to content

Spring-loaded crown gaskets


JohnC

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I am working on a couple American watches from the 40s-50s, some of which have crown gaskets that are badly degraded, and mounted on springs between the crown and the case. Can someone advise me on replacing these? I see there are gaskets on Cousins, but these seem to be a) caliber-specific and b) not spring-loaded. Any info and suggestions would be very helpful. Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can you get some measurements on that o-ring? I think you will be OK to use a (esy to get) Rolex crown o-ring. They have a few sizes of crowns and therefore corresponding o-rings. If you measure, and give your preferred supplier a call, they may be able to help.

"off the shelf" standard o-rings (even the odd ones) don't go small enough. I have some of the small "standard" o-rings just in case, but I've not found use for them in a watch yet.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, maybe I can get a measurement. One thing I am wondering is, should I just be using generic o-rings on all watches I overhaul? I've only come across a few that have crown gaskets, but it seems like a smart idea to just use them whenever possible. Seems like you're saying that it's hard to find standard o-rings of a suitable size.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, really tiny o-rings are non-standard. If you search the Parker O-ring catalogue, you'll find all the "dash numbers" that correspond to ID and cross section. But the smallest standards are:

5-051 which is .070 ID X .040 cross section (thickness of the ring itself) so this is .150 OD (INCHES)

2-001 .029 X .040 (.040 cross section is 1.02mm, so rather "fat"- most are 0.5mm cross section)

2-002 .042 X .050

2-003 .056 X .060

Then the "real" standards start

2-004 .070 X .210 (1.78mm cross section)

and up from there...

If those first sizes will work, you can get bags of 10 or more for less than what one "watch" seal will cost. There are also a few other non standards that are smaller but those are harder to find. Check McMaster-Carr...

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • in general this shouldn't be any change. but in general questions like this it be nice to know the specifics of the watch in other words how was it performing before it was cased up and what is it doing now.
    • just as a reminder this watch is a Swatch group product. This will bring up a problem like spare parts and technical information. that I found some links to some information on when I talk about your watch and some of the technical and basically your watch is equivalent to 2834-2 for which I'm attaching the technical sheets. But equivalent does not mean exactly the same you want to do a search on the group for C07 as we discussed this watch before including the technical differences how it's supposed to be regulated and basically because it's watch group there is no parts availability. https://calibercorner.com/eta-caliber-c07-xxx/   https://www.chrono24.com/magazine/eta-movements-from-the-2824-2-to-the-powermatic-80-p_80840/ https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/h-10-movement-details.4636991/ eta CT_2834-2_FDE_481857_15.pdf
    • people be honest.... Swatch is evil for the watchmakers and repairers, BUT not everything in watches from Switzerland is from the Swatch-Group. As far as i know, Selitta got sacked by Swatch as a Movement-Assembler for them and they started to produce Movements in their own Name with slight Modifications. As far as i know, they sell Parts to the Market for their Movements. In most cases, if a ETA-Movement fails, it is a valid Option to replace it with a Selitta Movement, which i consider the Solution for this Mess with the Swatch-Group...... I have no Connection to anybody at Selitta, but being a Swiss-Guy, i still like to have Swiss-Made Watches, but not from the Swatch-Group.   ok ? regards, Ernst
    • Just one more greedy act by Swatch. They started a number of years ago here in the US..cutting off supplies to watchmakers that could build complications that many Swatch houses couldn't even touch. Old school masters who had gone through some of the most prestigious houses in the world. Otto Frei has some statements on their page about it. I tell all my customers to avoid new Swiss watches like the plague,..unless they just want an older one in their collection that still has some parts out on the market, or they have really deep pockets and don't mind waiting months and paying through the nose to get it back. Plenty of others to choose from..IE Seiko,..or other non-swiss brands Even a number of Chinese brands are catching up with the Swiss,..and I think that in time, their actions will be their downfall
    • Yes. If that's not what you are experiencing...start looking for something rubbing. A 1st guess is that one of the hands is rubbing against the hole in the center of the dial. Especially if you now have lower amplitude in face up/ face down positions.
×
×
  • Create New...