Jump to content

A question/request for Bergeon 30080 owners

BHMarn

By BHMarn
in Tools & Equipment

 Share

Recommended Posts

BHMarn New Member

BHMarn

Posted
Posted

Hello everyone,

So if you read my introduction you will know that I am keenly interested in making my own bespoke watchmakers tools. Ultimately I thought what better set of tools to make for my first building of watchmakers tools than a set of screwdrivers! I'd like to base them off the Bergeon 30080 set, but put my own high end flair on them, such as hardened and tempered flame blued screws for the blade and the rotating head, a nice polish and lapping, and perhaps some rope knurling, as well as a custom rotating stand complete with vials for extra blades. Now all I need is dimensions, preferably from the most recent design of the Bergeon 30080 screwdrivers (it's my understanding that the current ones are a bit more substantial than the earlier ones, I think they did the redesign in 2016). Below I have made a diagram of the dimensions I am in need of. Some of my design will be a direct copy of the Bergeon, others I just need the dimensions to get some basic numbers to work around. I'm well aware that there are a lot of dimensions that I need, and that it might be somewhat tedious to measure each and every screwdriver in the chart I listed, but if anyone is willing to give me a hand, I'd much appreciate it. I thought it would be a good idea to start with what Bergeon considers the standard set, and make the non-standard sizes as I need them. I plan on making two sets, one for angled screwdriver blades, and one for hollow ground blades.

1691989499_Screwdriverdimensions.png.c2ee122068e670c05c4ebba87a31c342.png953675528_screwdriversizes.PNG.9141cb562891b7ba1fe64038548b7ac8.PNG

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tudor Distinguished Member

Tudor

Posted
Posted

I would suggest picking up bags of replacement blades from Burgeon, and making a handle from scratch to your needs. You may want to alter diameter, length and other details to make them "yours", but I've learned that for the cost of ten-packs of replacement, polished and anti-magnetic blades, it's not worth me trying to re-hone and polish them, with finally demagnetizing them. They work out to a buck n change per blade. I can't make them for double that price, and they won't be as nice.

I got some in recently, and I hadn't realized how magnetic the original (also Burgeon brand) blades were. Plus the replacements are very finely polished- really a joy to work with. Finer finishing for sure than the originally supplied blades.

I do appreciate your desire to make everything, and I'm not discouraging you, but the blades are sort of like re-sharpening the blades for a carpet knife. Of course you can do it, and probably to a higher standard, but you will waste a month of your life making screwdriver blades you could spend making a rose engine for example. And you won't save a dime.

I also make tools, where it makes sense to do so. But as I'm a bit older, and third generation "mechanic", I've learned sometimes it makes a lot more sense to buy certain things and make others. I am also not above altering tools as needed for a specific job. Plenty of expensive wrenches that have been heated red hot and bent to a specific angle for a specific job in the box.

So, make the handles- get a piece of brass round stock (or 316 stainless) and have at it. But the bag of blades (I go through 1.2mm the most) and make up a handle. I'd even say: jewel the pivot at the end. Why not?

And I got a set from Otto Frei several years ago, to replace the A-F set I started with. They have the colored plastic ends, rather than all metal like the ones you posted. I personally like the larger flared plastic ends, and larger color code area of them. Probably the easiest way to get all the dimensions you want, is to buy a single driver along with rodico, watch paper, oils etc. you will purchase anyway as consumables. Then you can use, feel, evaluate and change the driver to be perfect for you.

More than two cents, but my thoughts on this...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
BHMarn New Member

BHMarn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the thoughts! I actually found something that can help me, Esslinger publishes basic dimensions on their website, in imperial, but still, it's easy to convert to metric. The drivers .5 mm to 1.2 mm drivers are 2.75 inches long with a dia. of .1875 inches, the rest are 3 inches long and .25 inches in diameter. With basic dimensions I can work things out!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
BHMarn New Member

BHMarn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Actually I checked, the smallest 3 sizes are 2.75 inches in length with no diameter stated, the next 2 are longer and the length is not stated, but .1875 inches in diameter, and the next 3 are .25 inches in diameter, with no length stated, and the biggest 2 are 3 inches long, but the diameter is not stated.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Zedster
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Zedster · Posted

      Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
    • Jon
      Main spring

      By Jon · Posted

      I would go for the dearer spring. You won't need to remove the spring from the carrier ring and then use a mainspring winder to get it into the barrel, for a start. Also that spring is closer to the needed dimensions, especially the length. The length plays a part in the mainsprings strength. If you double the length you will half the force (strength) of the spring and vice-versa. A spring with 20 mm less length would be about 7% shorter, so technically would be 7% more strength, but I find halving this number is closer to real-world findings, so the spring would be about 3 to 4% more strength/force. On a mainspring that ideally kicks out 300 degrees of amplitude, a 3% increase in amplitude would be 309 degrees. Increasing or decreasing the length of the mainspring will affect the power reserve to a greater or lesser degree. It depends how much shorter or longer it is.
    • Malocchio
      What tools does ebay have to offer this week.

      By Malocchio · Posted

      I recently bought this but not on ebay. I figured if I want something Japanese I better check Japanese auction sites since these don't seem to pop up on ebay. I paid 83 € plus shipping & taxes. I think it was pretty reasonable for a complete set in good condition.
    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      Did you take the friction pinion off the large driving wheel and grease it? Although, now that I think about it, that shouldn't have any effect on the free running of the train if the friction pinion isn't interacting withe minute wheel/setting wheel...
    • DDean
      Incabloc Lyre Spring & Low Earth Orbit

      By DDean · Posted

      I did in fact use Rodico to get the spring into general position and "hold" it there while I used a fine oiler to make subtle positional adjustments.
×
×
  • Create New...