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Smiths Sandiville Mantel Clock


HectorLooi

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Hi Hector  I too are foremost a clock man, enjoy the variety of movements and types and as you have noticed they take a bit more care and attention  if you are to retain all fingers injury free,  See if you can get a cuckoo clock  they are fun, they have musical boxex and carousels and cone in a variety of styles you could fill the house.

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  Old Hippy you were a very lucky man having spent your life time working with clocks like these,  Judging by the look of the movement there was a lot of hand made parts. They were truly a work of art and engineering and well worth preserving for the future in this throw away era we live in.  The amount of pleasure in restoring one of these clocks to good health, one can only imagine.

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3 hours ago, oldhippy said:

When you get something like this in your workshop, you will know working on clocks makes it all worth while. I loved these types of movements and Longcase clocks. 

e55g.jpg

Hi OH,

A million years from now, folks will study this dinasour-caliber and wonder if it ate its own kind.:o

 

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Hi OH, some already are munseum piece.

This a present from Queen victoria to the palace of the king in Tehran,  was considered to do much better if the public saw what britts built back in those days, so was installed in a bussy square for all to see, received regulare service and was working until just recently when taken down for a major overhaul, thereupon will be put on exhibition in museum I have heard. 

شمس-العماره-تهران-تصویر-شاخص.jpg

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I got my clock all assembled and synced correctly. But when I  put the movement back into the casing, the chime and strike doesn't work properly. It's like the post of another member who says his clock only chimes 3/4 of an hour.

I studied the movement for the past 2 days and came to these conclusions:-

1) The silent lever has something to do with the problem. If I move the lever to "silent" then back up to "chime", the clock starts chiming again for another 3/4 hour.

2) The 2nd detent which engages during auto-correct position is not being lifted high enough by the long spoke of the cannon pinion wheel.

I have to decide how to ensure proper release of the 2nd detent when it engages the locking pin.

Looks like it's going to be another sleepless night. :wacko:

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  • 3 weeks later...

I managed to get the clock working and chiming away happily for over a week. I received another Smiths mantel clock on Thursday. I have it stripped down and ready for cleaning already.

I noticed that after soaking in white spirit, the brass looks dull. I have been experimenting with soaking it in a dilute citric acid solution for 15 minutes after the white spirit soak. This brightens the brass significantly. Does citric acid damage clock parts?

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I have used it sparingly on badly stained brass it will remove black spots from brass that Ammonia cleaners wont but you should generally avoid its use it can react with the copper in the brass and produce patchy pink stains on the surface so its not suitable as a general brass cleaner. It is very good at removing rust when parts are soaked in a weak solution.

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As wls1971 says I would avoid using citric acid in clocks.

Get a scap bit of brass and drop it in some citric acid and leave it in there for 20 minutes and come back and it will be copper colour which then takes significant polishing to remove, it is essentially dezincing the brass, or causing dezincification which is damaging the brass.

I used to restore toy and model steam engines and dezincification was our worst enemy, now don't get me started on the differences between using distilled water and de-ionised water in brass boilers as that is an even hotter topic for toy steam engine collectors than whether to sharpen your screwdrivers with hollow ground or flat edges is to watchmakers. :Laugh:

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    • An update, for everyone who contributed advice, and for those who come after with a similar problem. Based on the answers received, I decided to work on the face of the hammer first. I used a square degussit stone to guarantee a vertical surface to work against, and ground the face back until it was square across 90% of the depth. I was conscious of the risk of removing too much material.* After I'd got the shape how I wanted it, I polished the surface with lapping film. To cut a long story short, it did the trick and the hammer hasn't slipped off the cam since. Of course, that wasn't the end of my problems. Have a look at this video and tell me what you think is wrong. https://youtu.be/sgAUMIPaw98 The first four attempts show (0 to 34 sec.) the chrono seconds hand jumping forwards, the next two attempts (35 to 47 sec.) seem "normal", then on the seventh attempt (48 to 54 sec.) the seconds hand jumps to 5 sec. and the minute counter jumps to 1. The rest of the video just shows repeats of these three variants. I solved it by rotating the minute counter finger on the chronograph (seconds) runner relative to the cam.  I'd be interested to hear your opinions on that. It seemed to be the right thing to do, but maybe I've introduced another problem I'm not aware of. * What is the correct relationship between the two hammers and cams, by the way? Should both hammers strike the cams exactly at the same time, or is it correct for the minute counter hammer to be a bit behind the seconds hammer? In this picture, I removed the adjusting screw at 1, and the hammers are contacting the cams simultaneously at 3 and 4. I had to turn the screw down tight to achieve this condition after stoning the seconds hammer and replacing the bridge.
    • It was easy enough to pop off. Once I had the cannon pinion hanging on the blades of the stump, I got my #2 tweezers on the gear attached to the staff and levered it down. That way none of the force was on the brass wheel itself.   I reinstalled it and the bridge, and it looks like a small but reasonable amount of end shake. It also spins easily with a blower. It stops quickly, but I think that's due to the large shoulder and about what I'd expect from this wheel.  
    • Oh, right. For some reason I was picturing a monocoque case in my head. Good looking watch!
    • Well said Ross. My reason for the thread, i like many of us dont want to lose the forum, such a well knitted group of individuals i feel. But things can happen out of anyone's control. Would be nice to have something in place just in case, if anyone has any ideas please speak up. 
    • Ok thanks Ross, I will give that a try!😁
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