Jump to content

Smiths Sandiville Mantel Clock


HectorLooi

Recommended Posts

Hi Hector  I too are foremost a clock man, enjoy the variety of movements and types and as you have noticed they take a bit more care and attention  if you are to retain all fingers injury free,  See if you can get a cuckoo clock  they are fun, they have musical boxex and carousels and cone in a variety of styles you could fill the house.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  Old Hippy you were a very lucky man having spent your life time working with clocks like these,  Judging by the look of the movement there was a lot of hand made parts. They were truly a work of art and engineering and well worth preserving for the future in this throw away era we live in.  The amount of pleasure in restoring one of these clocks to good health, one can only imagine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, oldhippy said:

When you get something like this in your workshop, you will know working on clocks makes it all worth while. I loved these types of movements and Longcase clocks. 

e55g.jpg

Hi OH,

A million years from now, folks will study this dinasour-caliber and wonder if it ate its own kind.:o

 

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi OH, some already are munseum piece.

This a present from Queen victoria to the palace of the king in Tehran,  was considered to do much better if the public saw what britts built back in those days, so was installed in a bussy square for all to see, received regulare service and was working until just recently when taken down for a major overhaul, thereupon will be put on exhibition in museum I have heard. 

شمس-العماره-تهران-تصویر-شاخص.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got my clock all assembled and synced correctly. But when I  put the movement back into the casing, the chime and strike doesn't work properly. It's like the post of another member who says his clock only chimes 3/4 of an hour.

I studied the movement for the past 2 days and came to these conclusions:-

1) The silent lever has something to do with the problem. If I move the lever to "silent" then back up to "chime", the clock starts chiming again for another 3/4 hour.

2) The 2nd detent which engages during auto-correct position is not being lifted high enough by the long spoke of the cannon pinion wheel.

I have to decide how to ensure proper release of the 2nd detent when it engages the locking pin.

Looks like it's going to be another sleepless night. :wacko:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I managed to get the clock working and chiming away happily for over a week. I received another Smiths mantel clock on Thursday. I have it stripped down and ready for cleaning already.

I noticed that after soaking in white spirit, the brass looks dull. I have been experimenting with soaking it in a dilute citric acid solution for 15 minutes after the white spirit soak. This brightens the brass significantly. Does citric acid damage clock parts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have used it sparingly on badly stained brass it will remove black spots from brass that Ammonia cleaners wont but you should generally avoid its use it can react with the copper in the brass and produce patchy pink stains on the surface so its not suitable as a general brass cleaner. It is very good at removing rust when parts are soaked in a weak solution.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As wls1971 says I would avoid using citric acid in clocks.

Get a scap bit of brass and drop it in some citric acid and leave it in there for 20 minutes and come back and it will be copper colour which then takes significant polishing to remove, it is essentially dezincing the brass, or causing dezincification which is damaging the brass.

I used to restore toy and model steam engines and dezincification was our worst enemy, now don't get me started on the differences between using distilled water and de-ionised water in brass boilers as that is an even hotter topic for toy steam engine collectors than whether to sharpen your screwdrivers with hollow ground or flat edges is to watchmakers. :Laugh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks Dell. I thought about silver soldering. Have never done it but would like to give it a go. Do you think to put flux on the butted joint then run the solder in or to maybe brace it with a piece of scrap spring steel?
    • Never and others. Yes, like you I do spend a fair amount of time reading the contents of this forum. I find it better that any other. Clear, lucid, no Prima Donas, and most of all an easy access without adverts. All thanks to Mark. God bless you mate. You give so much to many of us. What if? No Mark? Hypothetically. A forum. I did run a forum for a few years. Really enjoyed it, but became so engrossed that it did affect my health. I gave to to others to run. Not been back. It was very successful and rivalled a number of large paying sites. No adverts, no others but me. I did ask and listen to members comments and it worked well.    Costs Having a domain name, £10 annually.  Register the site with a forum company, free. Build the site using the forum company guide lines, free. It looked and ran almost the same a Mark's. All the same facilities. The cost was only £5 per month, but counted visits (views). If I recall, it was that price for 5,000 views. Each extra 5,000 views increased the price by £2 per month. Success was my own personal undoing. From £5 per month initially, it rose to £60 a month and looked like increasing. This was 10 years ago. I could not afford that, and asked it anyone would like to take over and someone did. I would assume that this is the price that Mark is funding for us all. His return is our continued comments on the internet about his course, and the fact that many of the big names on YouTube mention him as their Tutor. Those of us who have done, and are still using, his course, benefit. In comparison to other courses, I can't believe how cheap it is, and the value is exceptional. It is the structure that gives the value. Long may Mark reign. Ross  
    • Hi all, total newbie to watchmaking and I've had a bit of a mishap. Just completing level 2 and was doing ok, but I was just on the last part of the reassembly of my ST3620 when the balance end stone shot across the room, just as I was trying to see if I had put the correct amount of oil between it and the balance end, aarrrgh! Been on my hands and knees combing the carpet for 20mins looking for it but to no avail. Does anybody know where I can get a replacement from and what to look for please?? Thanks.
    • Get someone local to tig it ,very easy fix and should only take a few minutes so probably wouldn’t cost much ,or failing that get it very clean and silver solder it. Dell
    • Hi, The winding pin is not split, well that's how it was when I obtained the watch. The movement is front-loaded and here's a picture of where the case screws are fitted. The face picture is before I dismantled it. Quick update.  I've always had a nylon ring sitting in the parts try that I wasn't sure where it went and left it to the last thing as I know it must be part of the case assembly. Anyway, looking at the picture in my last post you can see, just under the winding stem, a white-looking object, this is the nylon ring 🤭 So, I had to remove the dial again and replace the ring. Once this was all back together I placed the movement in the case and realized my initial problem maybe is not a problem as it looks like I can screw the movement back in the case and then place the hands as the dial is nearly flush with the outside of the case anyway so I'll be able to check for alignment. if all is good then just fit the crystal and bezel 🤔 I can't think of any issues with this approach but please comment if you think I've not thought of something. Another lesson learned as well. Take more pictures not just of the movement parts and location 😅
×
×
  • Create New...